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I had the ES upper shock bushings in the past with Tein Basics, but am now changing over to a different shock/spring setup, and I want to do it right this time...JToby had indicated in a previous thread that the stiff bushings on the GC upper mounts should be ditched, since they can wear the shock excessively.
I just wanted to know if this would pertain to ES mounts as well. I have no problem going back to OEM bushings, just wanted to make sure this would be the best route with the Koni Yellow/H&R OE Sport combo that I am now going to. Any input would be appreciated.
I assume that when you write "ES mounts," you really mean ES bushings. If so, then I don't think that they're a problem, as they are pretty soft.
For those keeping score at home, here is the trade-off: Stiffer upper shock bushings let the shock do it's job by preventing the shock's shaft from moving vertically. Unfortunately, they also prevent the shaft from moving off-axis, so they cause stiction and wear as the piston-head grinds against the inner wall of the shock. How stiff you can go, getting the benefits without too much of the cost, is an open question, but we know that it's somewhere between the softness of the OE bushings and hardness of the nasty, black rocks that GC includes with their plates.
The dream is a bushing that prevents all vertical movement while not resisting off-axis rotation. These are called spherical bushings (aka "pillow-balls") and they cost $95 each (but are worth twice that, if you care about handling).
I am definitely planning for RRE's plates in the future, just not now, since I can't afford them.
Here's my current dillemma -
I'm trying to make sure I have everything that I need to put the new shocks/springs that I ordered in the car. I'm going to order new bumpstops since my old ones have seemed to sneak away from me (don't ask how, it's like the laundry-disappearing-sock phenomnenon only slightly more costly and irritating) which brings me to the bushings.
On the exploded diagram from mitsubishiparts.com, there seems to be two bushings between the upper mount and the bumpstop, and one between the top mount and the shaft nut (The two between the bumpstop and mount are called "cup" and "bushing" (#5 and 6), the one up top is also called "bushing" (#11)). However, I only have two bushings per shock that came with the ES kit. Am I missing a bushing, or does ES replace two OEM bushings with only one of their own?
I have no idea what #10 is. The stock setup on a 97, for example, has just the two, black, rubber bushings that sandwich the hole in the top-mount and fit together, the lower inside the upper, with the metal tube inside both. It's exactly like the ES bushings.
Any possibility that #10 and #11 are equivalents in some supercession? It wouldn't be the first time Mitsu said "oops" and corrected it later.
I believe #10 are simply the nuts that connect to the threaded shafts on the shock mounting plate (three up front, two in the rear).
Given the info you gave about the stock setup, I think I'll be fine with what I have, I was just having some confusion with this exploded view and totally forgot how my shock assembly looked like the first time I changed it out. Thanks.
^ Yes thats what I was going to say, think #10 is just the nuts. The ES bushings replace both stock bushings on each shock. I have had these installed on my Tokico Illumina shocks for the past 3 years & no issues yet (knock on wood )
There isn't 2 lower bushings between the plate & bump stop in the drawing, #4 is the bump stop, #5 is the metal "cap" that the plastic dust cover attaches to & #6 is the lower bushing.
Sorry to bring another aspect of this up - but when I first installed these bushings with my Tein Basics, we were having some problem with the collars (small metal tube that fits inside the bushing, around the shock shaft, #8 in the diagrams) bouncing around during normal driving. To this day I don't know why we did it, but a friend of mine more knowledgable than I decided that we should trim the collar length so that it's only the length of the bushing it fits in (before it was long enough that it fit the length of the bushing and then some). That fixed the rattle/bouncing of the collar, but I don't really know why or if it was actually a safe fix, or if it changed any fundamental characteristic of the shock.
If anyone can shed some light on this, it would be appreciated, and also whether I should be fine staying with these shortened collars or if I should go get new ones with the stock length.
As long as the tube is inside the bushing(s) at the place where they pass through the hole in the upper plate, you should be OK. If the tube is so short that it can move up or down far enough to not be inside the hole in the plate, replace them.
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