lowering my car-alignment question

[GSEclipse06]

ok i want to lower my car 2 inches. im getting four new shocks and struts with it, adn obviously i will have to align it afterwards. now i know that with the lowered stance camber will be off, so when i reset it do i set it at stock? if not, what should i set it at? the computer is going to say what is correct but wont take into account the lowered stance. also, will anything else be effected by this? (toe, etc)

 

[GSEclipse06]

ok im not trying to bump the thread but you cant tell me no one has any idea about this.

 

[dlh1999]

For handling, a little negative camber is better, but I'd suggest getting it as close to you can to stock specs as to not go through tires like crazy. You'll need camber kits going that low, too. I can't remember what camber specifications are alright with regular tire rotations, but I'd just go stock (or as close to it as possible) if I were you...in the long run it'll probably be best IMO. Also, with a 4-wheel alignment they'll fix toe and camber, I reckon.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I don't think it can be adjusted all the way back within spec, on a 2 inch drop. But i would get it as close as possible, and throw together a home-made camber kit.

Josh

 

[pneumo]

Your profile says you have a 1G FWD, right? OK so nothing will change then. You might want to get the front toe checked, but front and rear camber will not change. No camber kits needed. enjoy!

 

[dlh1999]

Your profile says you have a 1G FWD, right? OK so nothing will change then. You might want to get the front toe checked, but front and rear camber will not change. No camber kits needed. enjoy!

Hmm...I have never heard of camber not being affected by lowering one's car (regardles of what kind of car)...I guess you learn something new everyday...

 

[MetalliHawk]

^I have Megan 2" drop on AGX's, bought a camber kit, and it turns out I didn't need it. Mine is still perfectly aligned, even after all that, but like pneumo said, definately take it and have the front toe checked, and enjoy your lowered ride (BTW, What Shocks are you getting? Riding around on blown-out shocks you bought six months ago because they can't handle the large drop would definately suck @ss....)

 

[ryu]

. You might want to get the front toe checked, but front and rear camber will not change. No camber kits needed. enjoy!

what about 1g awd?

 

[jtmcinder]

The bump-camber curve for a 1G is not totally flat, but it is nothing like that on a 2G. And a modified 2G can have a bump-camber curve that approaches that for roll-camber, while a 1G has to keep dialing in more and more static camber to be happy in a hard corner.

Deep issue to think about:

What we are talking about here is half of the huge trade-off between struts and double-wishbone. Struts weigh less (and it's mostly unsprung weight, so this is really good), but double-wishbone can be designed to have a much better bump-camber curve (which is really important for handling). Struts can usually be designed to have more travel than double-wishbone, too. This is why -- when you put it all together -- you want struts for drag-racing (weight) or rallying (travel), while you want double-wishbone for road-racing and autocrossing (bump-camber).

- Jtoby

 

[pneumo]

what about 1g awd?

The 1G AWD will need a rear camber kit if it's lowered more than about 1.5" There is some built-in adjustment, but it can't handle extreme lowering without a camber kit.