How many washers???

[alex1777]

Hi,
I have a 96 GSX and I lowered the car on Nex coilovers. I had some nasty rear camber, so I put in 6 washers with 35 mm bolts. The strongest bolts I could get in my town were only 8.8 strength, but I have had them in for a week and they seem to be holding up fine. I still have some negative camber though, and I would like to get it fixed closer to 0 before my new wheels come in. I was wondering how many washers everyone has put in on a 2g and how many is safe with 8.8 - 35 mm bolts? I was thinking if I added 2 more on each one it would be good, is that safe though? Anything you have to say is appreciated. Thanks
Alex

 

[alex1777]

Can anyone help? Does anyone have anything to say on this?? Has it been tried? What is the max? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Alex

 

[leakyfaucet]

washers have different thicknesses...

 

[blcknspo0ln]

i got the ingals rear camber correction kit and i put in a total of 16 washers. 4 for each rear bracket on the upper control arm.

thickness is around 3/8" maybe a little more

 

[Ballin' GS]

You want negative camber. If your camber was close to 0 it would be worse that being at stock specs. I have 6 washers and my tires are almost tucked.

 

[wret]

You want negative camber. If your camber was close to 0 it would be worse that being at stock specs. I have 6 washers and my tires are almost tucked.

Check that. If you want to handle you can leave some negative camber in the front but not the back. Get it back near zero if you can. I figure about 1/4" spacing for every degree of positive you want to add.

 

[jtmcinder]

Check that. If you want to handle you can leave some negative camber in the front but not the back. Get it back near zero if you can.

No. No. No. The key to good handling is not zero rear camber; rather, it is the right amount of rear camber for the amount of front camber (after taking spring rates and sway bars into account). For a well-sprung 2G with RM sways, for example, you want between half and two-thirds as much rear camber as front. To be clear: if you have 1.5 degrees of front camber on a well-sprung 2G (which means higher rear wheel rates than front), then about 1 degree in the rear is good. Otherwise, you're giving up too much rear cornering grip.

- Jtoby

 

[wret]

No. No. No. The key to good handling is not zero rear camber; rather, it is the right amount of rear camber for the amount of front camber (after taking spring rates and sway bars into account). For a well-sprung 2G with RM sways, for example, you want between half and two-thirds as much rear camber as front. To be clear: if you have 1.5 degrees of front camber on a well-sprung 2G (which means higher rear wheel rates than front), then about 1 degree in the rear is good. Otherwise, you're giving up too much rear cornering grip.

- Jtoby

Interesting.

Would you say this advice applies equally to front wheel drive?

 

[jtmcinder]

With front wheel drive you have to make a decision about the trade-off between staright-ahead acceleration and cornering, which is why many people call it wrong wheel drive. If you run enough front camber to get the car to turn well, you are increasing the chance of wheel-spin on the launch, as well as inside front wheel-spin exiting corners. So, most people with this drive-train run lower front camber than those with AWD.

And yet, when it comes to mid-corner handling, the same general rules about the relative amounts of camber apply.

- Jtoby

 

[Ballin' GS]

No. No. No. The key to good handling is not zero rear camber; rather, it is the right amount of rear camber for the amount of front camber (after taking spring rates and sway bars into account). For a well-sprung 2G with RM sways, for example, you want between half and two-thirds as much rear camber as front. To be clear: if you have 1.5 degrees of front camber on a well-sprung 2G (which means higher rear wheel rates than front), then about 1 degree in the rear is good. Otherwise, you're giving up too much rear cornering grip.

- Jtoby

Thanks for backing me up. Always sucks on here when people oppose you when you're right.

 

[Toshiro]

I figure about 1/4" spacing for every degree of positive you want to add.

If I were only going to add 1/4" to the rear control arm bolts, would I need to get longer bolts? No where around here has fine thread metric bolts big enough for the rear suspension, so I've been running with an assload of rear camber for a month or so now.

 

[jtmcinder]

Keep looking. Is you shim out 1/4", you want 35 or 40mm bolts. You really don't want the upper control arms coming loose at speed.

- Jtoby

 

[Toshiro]

Ok. Does anyone know the exact dimensions of the bolt that I want, off hand? I don't want to have to take mine out again just to go look (it's my only car), and when I had it out before I didn't write it down, smart smart. I remember it being a 17mm head, and I guess I should look for 35-40 mm long?

 

[alex1777]

Ok. Does anyone know the exact dimensions of the bolt that I want, off hand? I don't want to have to take mine out again just to go look (it's my only car), and when I had it out before I didn't write it down, smart smart. I remember it being a 17mm head, and I guess I should look for 35-40 mm long?

You want 40 mm x 1.25 thread which is a finer thread but not the finest they make. I found mine at napa and also they had them at truevalue. They might have to order them in because you need 8 and most don't usually stock that.

Alex

 

[jtmcinder]

I think you left out a critical piece of information: M10-1.25 35mm or 40mm

Any Pep Boys should have them.

- Jtoby