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Resurfacing rotors

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Seattle GST

15+ Year Contributor
184
1
Mar 11, 2004
Seattle, Washington
I purchased a set of 4 new slotted/dimpled rotors, SS brake lines, Motul DOT4 fluid, and Axxis pads from www.turboimport.com about 8 months ago, i just installed my second set of pads (Hawk SP) and have been having some troubles with the new pads.

I get alot of pad noise, squealing (like when on the squeal pad), metal to metal contact sound, and the ticking that accompanied the first set (this is from the slots/dimples), and a most unusual sound, like sticking a baseball card in the spokes of you HUFFY. It is based on wheel speed, and comes from the front 2 rotors, loud enough to be heard on the freeway as a buzzing. The brake feel is very soft, even compared to the heat soaked Axxis pads.

I have been told to:

1) use some squeal "goop" between the pad and the shim to eliminate the noise.
2) resurface the rotors.
3) use a file and round the leading edge of the pads to accept the rotor better.

I want to ask if all this noise is normal, semi-normal, or i am a crack head? Should each rotors pads be seated individually? And also, do these 3 steps have to be performed? I am hesitant to resurface the rotors as the shop wants $190 to do it (and the car for a full day)

Thank you for your time.
 
the stuff is called anti-squeal i think, using this may or may not help. Take your pads out and look at them, do you see any ruptures or basically anything that could score the rotors? What about your rotors, are they scored? 190 is too expensive even for just doing the front brakes. Take your rotors to another place like kragen/checkers and have them resurface it for like 10 bucks. Also did you properly bed the brakes pads? or did you put them in and just go balls out?
 
I did what my chiltons manual suggested. depress the brake bedal firmly about 10 times to get them bedded in, that was after putting the filler cap back on the resivour (sp). Also, I rotated the rotor about 10 times by hand, not sure why it asked for that, but i did it anyway. then i went out for the break in period, about 10-15 stopps from 30mph with light-moderate pressure, then about 10 stops with moderate-high pressure.
 
check your work,make sure your caliper and support botls are all tight.also 190 dollars for cutting the rotors!!!??? come on,there killing you, just take them out your self and have them turned for ike 10 buks.any good shop with a good brake lathe can cut slotted or drilled rotors,it's just like cuting regular rotors.
 
yes goop. Goop should fix the squeel right up. As for the metal on metal, or pad noise that is perfectly normal, mine were horrible for the first month but little by little they should start to quiet down and even start gripping better. I could even feel the noise through the steering wheel at first, but it was just the new pads making new home. I dont know how the metal master is but this was how the ceramics were.



the ticking however is odd, I'm drawing a complete blank as to what that could be, does it directly seem related to your brakes or does it always tick? Might throw it of the lift and do a couple test runs to find what the hell could be making that noise.
 
I've never resurfaced a rotor, even horribly gouged and scored rotors run on the backing plates. No ill effects.

Putting a chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of your pads should shut them up. It only takes about 1/8". Make sure all the pissy little shims and clips are present.

How'd you get through a set of pads in eight months?

And $190? I'd better get a lot more turned than just rotors for that kind of money.
 
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