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In Rotor Trouble

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DSMESi98TFJ

15+ Year Contributor
104
1
Feb 25, 2004
Garden City, Michigan
I've been replacing my rotors on my 98 eagle talon fwd, and the driver's side was a snap, all of 30 minutes. I get to the passengers side and it's as if everything was pressed in. I finally get down to the rotor and it won't come off. I've been trying for the last 3 days! I've hammered pulled and pushed, threaded bolts but it still won't come off. I'm trying to save $70 by doing it myself but taking it to midas sounds absolutely tempting. I'm in a bind, any suggestions??? :confused:
 
Thanks im about to get out there right now and do so, but my car is about to explode so that kinda sucks :thumbdown
 
i had to use a 5lb sledge to get one of mine off, and on others i used a rubber mallet, so it just depends on how much rust is in there, dont forget to use some brakeclean in there after you get it off! and without a metal brush, expect the same treatment the next time around!
 
You tried the 12mm bolt method?
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html - click on brakes... and then stuck rotors.

I cant imagine this method not working. I spent 3 hours banging the crap out of my back rotors and then tried the bolt method. It worked in 5 minutes. If you already tried this and it did not work my only conclusion is that someone welded your rotor to the hub. ;)

Hope that helps.
 
i have never had the 12mm method work. it always strips the threads out.

i use a little sledge i picked up over at home depot. my last brake job the rotors were all busted up.
 
telly699 said:
You tried the 12mm bolt method?
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html - click on brakes... and then stuck rotors.

I cant imagine this method not working. I spent 3 hours banging the crap out of my back rotors and then tried the bolt method. It worked in 5 minutes. If you already tried this and it did not work my only conclusion is that someone welded your rotor to the hub. ;)

Hope that helps.

Yeah I did, and I feels like someone welded it on there too :mad: I couldn't get out right now because of rain but first thing tommorow I will, thanks for the advise peps :cool:
 
mavisky said:
i have never had the 12mm method work. it always strips the threads out.

It strips the threads on the bolts? That sounds crazy. Were they nice fat bolts? It seemed when I did it, that there is no way for it not to work... tightening the nut on your 12mm bolt from home depot basically forces the brake off.
 
no it strips the threads out of the rotor. the bolts are always fine. on my gf's 90 i had to pound on the hard enough that i ended up shattering the rotor into 3 pieces before it would come off.
 
I didnt thread mine through the rotor and neither should anyone. My understanding of the VFAQ, and hence what I performed on my own vehicle was that you just thread a random 12mm bolt from the back into the holes where the caliper bolts to the hub. Then you put a nut on the bolt and tighten down. As you tighten the nut the tip of the bolt presses into the back of the rotor, forcing it off. There are no threads to strip. Heres a quote from the VFAQ:

"The caliper bolts to the hub via two holes in the hub mounting bracket, right? Well, if you look carefully, these holes line up with the very inside of the rotor where the rotor and hat meet at a 90 degree angle. So I went out and bought 14mm bolts and nuts. I put these in the caliper bracket holes and tightened the whole system down. The idea is that the nut ends up pushing against the caliper mounting bracket, and the tip of the bolt pushes against the rotor. Use a box-end wrench to hold the nut, and turn the bolts with a ratchet and socket. Tighten the bolts very tight, and then let off. Rotate the rotor 90 degrees and tighten down again. Keep repeating this until the rotor walks off."

There is no way for this not to work. Go to the VFAQ for a picture. I have already posted the link above. I STRONGLY sugest doing it this way. IT WILL WORK, or I may renounce physics and my memory. Smashing the rotor with a massive hammer leaves room for massing up your rotor and worse, the wheel hub itself.
 
that's a much better idea. although the only reason i take a rotor off is if i'm replacing them anyways so for me it doesn't really matter if i mess up the rotor doing it. although from here on out i'll probably use that method since it sounds like less work for me :D
 
you Na-sayer, i will never renounce my rights to bash things with a mallet! but that system works very well. . . I just like to use my mallet every chance i get! :p
 
hey are you talking about the rear one or front, if its the rear, you didnt happen to leave the ebrake on did you?
 
If you get one rotor off you can use it as a puller. Thread some all-the-way-through lug nuts on there and put the loose rotor on over the studs backwards so that the bolt holes line up. Thread a couple of bolts in there (there is more than one hole, isn't there? It's been a while). Then start backing out the lug nuts. Pop goes the rotor.
 
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