Rear Camber And Toe Settings???

[98GSXPOWER]

Ok i need some help with my camber settings. Last summer I purschased a Eibach camber kit for front and back. I put on brand new tires at the end of the summer. I only put 5K on them and the rear are bald again! The front look brand new like they have not been touched. I dont have the alainment sheet with me. But if i can remember the rear was at around -1.5 (after the camber kit was installed) and before it was like -3.5. I was just wondering what should my rear settings be set at? Camber and Toe????I have the pro-eibach drop springs lowered about 1.5 inches with the koni gas shocks. This is on a 98 GSX. Any info would be greatly appriciated.

EDIT I got the specs:

OK i got the settings

CAMBER
LF= - .44
RF= - 1.52
LR= - 1.92
RR= - 1.80

TOE
FL= 0
RF= 0
LR= +1/16 (+.06)
RR= +1/32 (+.03)


Thanks,
Patrick

 

[MNGSX]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=952271#post952271

Originally posted by ACM
Front Camber:
Short of removing the springs and bumpstops you cannot have too much -ve camber in the front of a 2G. Anything under -3* is fine as far as tire wear is concerned, just make sure your toe is correct (i.e no more than 1/32" out).

Rear Camber:
It needs fixing no matter what ride height, from a handling perspective. Stock there is considerably more -ve in the rear than in the front - that needs reversing, less -ve in the rear than the front. The rear also gains more -ve camber faster than the front, which pushes the car into understeer at the limit, rather than loose.

The best solution is offset bushings front and rear, rotated in opposite directions, shortening the effective length in the front and increasing the effective length in the rear.

The practical solution is GM alignment shims and longer bolts in the rear, setting the rear -ve camber about .5 - .75 less than whatever the front ends up at.

Set the rear toe at zero, set the front toe to a hair out, just past zero.


Charles

You need more front camber and less rear camber. You always want more front camber than rear.

It is the rear toe that is killing the rear tires. You want the rear to be at 0 degrees.

Front toe you need only around 1/32"max. You need some because in the front the toe keeps tension on the steering components.

With stiff bushings, new joints, and new rod ends.. I'm going to try about 2.5mm toe out.. More front toe up to a point equals more turn-in crispness and high speed stability. It also means more tire wear.

On the street I like to run the minimum that feels right.

PS I highly recomend the ES master busing kit.

Look at the amount of rubber in the frame end of the trailing arm. This is what the rear toe adjustment bolt goes thru. The factory bushing is way too compliant. Alot of load goes thru that link under acceleration and braking. The poly gives alot less keeping rear toe from changing as much when you are launching hard or braking hard. The small bushing on the spindle for the other end of the link helps too but that big honking stock bushing on the other end the link gives the most. The other bushings in the kit keep the camber in check too. The biggest change I felt was in controlling rear toe under load. Simply put