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subs amps door speakers wiring questions

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DDualan

10+ Year Contributor
98
0
Feb 19, 2012
Cumberland, Rhode Island
so i just finished putting together a Memphis car audio system

2 Memphis 12'' Subs in a custom ported box
-Memphis 1.500

2 Memphis 6''x9''
-Memphis 2.100

2 Memphis 6 3/4''
2 Memphis 1'' Tweets
-Memphis 4.50


now I need wires, I am buying 50' of 16 gauge speaker wire to start wiring my doors

what else do I need here? I don't want to buy an amp install kit,

running this amount of power should i get a different battery? i have the auto zone special
should i get a stronger alternator? i have a stock one
what else do i need or is suggested ?
how much and what gauge wires should I buy??

on my list is
the speaker wire
3 sets of RCA Patch wires ( how long?? )
ether 0 or 4 gauge power wire ( how long?? )
0 or 4 gauge grounding wire ( how long?? )
one or two distribution blocks
4 fuse holders and fuses ( should i get more / less? what size fuse? )

I have never done anything like this before but I like to get the work done on this car myself its my own personal project and I don't like bringing it to get work done.
 
How long? Long enough to do your car. Get out the tape measure or string if you have to but you'll want to be ordering more rather than less.
As for the alternator, etc, you're not actually going to be running a shit-tonne of power (relatively) so your alt. and battery should be fine. Upgrading your "Big 3" would be of good benefit.

Oh one more thing. IMO, using a separate amp for your 6x9's is a complete waste. Give them deck/headunit power or nothing at all. I don't mind a little rear fill, but powered rear fill? Not a chance.



EDIT: btw, you rob a Memphis truck or something? It's not common for me to see someone blow their paycheck on one name. Are those amps M series? :sneaky:
How much RMS wattage can the components handle? If they're up to it, the woofer, tweet and crossover, you should definitely bridge that 4ch amp 2chx140w RMS. Those puppies will SING!!

I'm only running ~110RMS to each side and it's fricken magical. I'd kill for a full 160.
 
I got a really nice deal on the setup, most of it came from a storage unit I picked up the subs and 3 amps for under 500$ then grabbed the component 6 1/2 Nd 6x9s off eBay was up till 6am making sure I got those, only dropped 70$+25 to ship. I wanted all Memphis cause the lifetime warranty

How should I run this what gauge should I run from my battery back should I use a power distributor or run separate wires for each amp
 
0 gauge from battery to distribution block then the biggest wire that the amp will accept, 20ft will be good to wire that all up and have leftovers to do the big 3 and add extra grounds
 
I did the system on my car so long ago and can't really remember the details. However, I do remember that I used the same speaker wires that are already going to the stock head unit (makes the job easier). I have two amps (one for the speakers (crunch) and one for the sub (orion cobalt). I'm also running a capacitor to help with not draining the battery. My setup conists of the following: Infinity Kappa speakers F&R, Panasonic Head Unit, Orion Cobalt Sub with 400 watt amp. IMO it sounds super clean running an amp to the speakers. My sub isn't to comp level but I sure as heck overpower most people on vocals with the speakers though :thumb:
 
:thumb:If you mount your amps to the back of the rear seat add 9 feet of RCA cable. Figure 50 feet total of 16-18 gauge Monster speaker wire or equivalent. Also figure 9 feet of 10-12 gauge wire from P.D.S to amp{s}. Run approx. 12 feet of O gauge or equivalent from battery to P.D.S. Use a copper ring terminal that requires a special crimping tool or equivalent when attaching to the battery terminal. It maybe best to use a Marine type battery terminal depending how you want to run power straight from the battery to the P.D.S. Many different configurations you can see.
 
so this is what i was looking at

50 ft of oxygen free copper 16g wire

Nickel car battery terminals with holes for 0 / 4 / 8 gauge power wires

Rockford Fosgate duel amp wiring kit -

-17 feet of 1/0 AWG power wire
-3 feet of 1/0 AWG ground wire
-4 feet of 4 AWG ground wire
-4 feet of 4 AWG power wire
-ANL/MAXI fuse holder and fuse
-30 feet of 16 AWG speaker wire
-(3) 16 feet twisted pair RCAs
-(2) 4 AWG distribution block
-20 feet of remote wire
-300 Amp fuse

Power Acoustik 10 farad digital cap

i have some spare 4 gauge wire laying around if i need extra
i am only going to be using 2 of the amps, the 4.50 and the 1.500
i may put the 2.100 in at a later date

is this sufficient ???
In the near future i will be getting a deep cycle battery and I'm looking into a stronger alternator
 
0 gauge from battery to distribution block then the biggest wire that the amp will accept, 20ft will be good to wire that all up and have leftovers to do the big 3 and add extra grounds
This, except for the extra grounds because there's no need for extra grounds. Run the ground wires from the amps to a distribution block and then ground the block. If you ground in multiple places you WILL get feedback.

so this is what i was looking at

50 ft of oxygen free copper 16g wire

Nickel car battery terminals with holes for 0 / 4 / 8 gauge power wires

Rockford Fosgate duel amp wiring kit -

-17 feet of 1/0 AWG power wire
-3 feet of 1/0 AWG ground wire
-4 feet of 4 AWG ground wire
-4 feet of 4 AWG power wire
-ANL/MAXI fuse holder and fuse
-30 feet of 16 AWG speaker wire
-(3) 16 feet twisted pair RCAs
-(2) 4 AWG distribution block
-20 feet of remote wire
-300 Amp fuse

Power Acoustik 10 farad digital cap

i have some spare 4 gauge wire laying around if i need extra
i am only going to be using 2 of the amps, the 4.50 and the 1.500
i may put the 2.100 in at a later date

is this sufficient ???
In the near future i will be getting a deep cycle battery and I'm looking into a stronger alternator

Looks like a good plan but if you are seriously going to run 3 amps, I would use 0ga wire to the distribution block. You also need to make sure that your primary fuse can handle the max load of all of the amps in the system. (IE: if the total combined max draw of your amps is 250 amps, then you need to have a 250 amp fuse on the primary wire.) It's easy to determine this by adding up the total of the fuses on the amps. For instance my PDX is fused at 60 amps. If I were running 3 of those I would need as close to, but no less than, 180 amps and then I would run three 60 amp fuses at the distribution block.

Last bit of advice I will give you is to make sure that you run your RCAs at least 18" away from the power wire. Usually running them down the opposite of the car is best way to handle this.
 
so i switched it up

i bought a fused distribution block that has 2 0 gauge inputs and 8 8 gauge outputs its a power / ground block, currently has 4 200 amp fuses installed

i am rewiring the big 3 with all 0 gauge wire and running 0 back from the battery to the block

from the battery i have a inline fuse with a 300 amp fuse in it

also i am no longer thinking i will need a capacitor cause i am going to be running an optima battery let me know what you think!!

what i purchased was

25' 0 gauge power wire
10' 0 gauge ground wire
25' 8 gauge power wire
25' 8 gauge ground wire
50' 16 gauge speaker wire
10 0 gauge terminals
10 8 gauge terminals
tsunami fused distribution block with 250 amp fuses
tsunami inline fuse block with a 300 amp fuse
2 battery terminals with 3 ring connectors
3 14' RCA wires

i have a new question if anyone can answer this

the wire running from + battery to the fuse box, can i run one 0 gauge wire and split it to 3 smaller gauge ring terminals properly shrink wrapped and soldered to the terminals ??
 
Last edited:
Personally I don't think you need 0ga from the block to the amp and you certainly don't 200 amp fuses from the block to the amps either. There are two fuses on the side of the amp, combine the size of the fuses and that is the max size you want to run at the block. (IE: 2x30amp =60 amp fuse at the block and 3x60 amp fuses in the block = 180 amp fuse at the battery.)

The Optima battery will be fine but you will need to upgrade your alternator and cables as well (big three in mobile electrknics).
 
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