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ECMlink DSMlink - Idles then stalls out (Bad Gas)

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GofaST4life

15+ Year Contributor
2,897
132
Oct 21, 2007
Medina 44256, Ohio
Hello guys.

Car Information:
1997 Eclipse GSX - 5 Speed
DSMlink V2.5
132k Miles
Healthy Motor


Scenario:
Took the car off the road in late October 2013. During the winter she underwent a Clutch install and a 20g install. Prior to the season ending the car was running great.

So its been some months, and today was the big day to start the car up after the tranny was filled.

After priming the motor, I threw the engine fuse back in and fired her up. After a few tries, she fired and sounded great. Idle was around 1400-1600 RPM.

Once the idle fell, the AFR went way high 19-22 and the car sputtered and stalled out. I started her up a few more times, and this same scenario happened each time. If I give her gas she will stay running.

WideBand Setup:
MTX-L WIdeband Sensor in the Front O2 spot.
Brown Wire - wired to ECU via pin 76 (front O2) to simulate narrow band.
Yellow Wire - Wired to ECU via pin 75 (rear O2), ECU set to read Wideband Via rear O2 signal input.

I had a friend on the ECMlink Support Group remote access my computer to check my settings. He concluded that the front O2 sensor not being in the car is causing it to run how it is.

I'm not sure this is correct though, because the car was running fine prior to the DSMlink ECU being installed. All I did once it was installed, was wire it in so DSMlink could see it and read it now.



THE car has a completely stock fuel system. I am not planning on driving the car until I upgrade the fuel system (already have parts). All I wanted to do was start her up and get her running/idling good before anymore modding.

ANOTHER thought was possible bad gas from months of sitting.


I have attached a log from one of the starts/runs from earlier. Please note this log is before anyone but me had looked at it.
 

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As long as your simulating for the front o2 sensor thru link you don't need to have one! Also yes your gas is bad and most likely the only problem. Try to drain it and replace or add more with some fuel stabilizer! Gas now a days goes bad fast! Also you have the wideband hooked up wrong I think! Let me check something and I'll post back. Ah yes I see you don't need to wire into pin 76 to simulate with link. The way you have it wired you would need to use log works to have the mtx simulate the o2. You don't want it that way. You just want the yellow wire in say pin 75 so you can log it and then just check the box in link to simulate the front o2, leave the brown wire alone no need to use it since you have link. Also in link when you made the changed with the wideband and stuff did you make the needed changes in link and save them?
 
I have Link 2.5, so there is no box to check for "simulate narrowband"

Yes, I have changed the read outs and saved everything.


Wideband is a Innovative MTX-L
Per wideband instructions:
Yellow Wire: Wideband Readout - Analog Output - Wired to Rear O2 Via Pin 75 - Link is reading it via the rear O2 input.
Brown Wire: Simulated Narrowband Signal from the O2 Sensor - Wired to Front O2 via Pin 76 - ran the car like this last summer - no issues.


I'm going to pick up a 5 gallon gas can today and get a bunch of good gas in her. She has about an 8th tank as she sits.


I'm also going to check for boost leaks again.
 
UPDATE: 4/9/2014

I was thinking of things are work today, about the car.

And on a whim I thought, why not throw the stock ECU back in the car, changed the plug wires back to stocking firing order, and see what happens. Figured this would at least tell me something.

SO I did that, and the car acted the exact same way!

I'm leaning hard toward bad gas being in the tank. Going to drain it and get some good stuff in there.
 
You need to have a primary o2 sensor installed if you can't simulate it. Or your just beating your head on the wall

I do have a way to simulate it.

That's the BROWN wire, from the MTX-L which is the narrow band simulation wire. I have it wired into the front O2 input Pin 76 in the ECU.



Now that I know both ECUs are acting the same way, im going to get some good gas in the car. The bad gas could have easily cause all the AFR fluctuation, and the stalling out.
 
We worked on the car all day. Got great gas in it and it did the same thing so we started messing around in the bay. We found out that it would only do this with the MAF plugged in. I had my car with a working MAF so we swapped it and it did the same thing. He does have a leak at the TB but I honestly can't see it making the car run this freaking horrible. If it was an air leak it should run rich if we are right. We are pretty stumped on this. Any more help would be great :thumb:
 
We worked on the car all day. Got great gas in it and it did the same thing so we started messing around in the bay. We found out that it would only do this with the MAF plugged in. I had my car with a working MAF so we swapped it and it did the same thing. He does have a leak at the TB but I honestly can't see it making the car run this freaking horrible. If it was an air leak it should run rich if we are right. We are pretty stumped on this. Any more help would be great :thumb:

Maybe someone swapped the wires for some odd reason like using a 1g MAF?
 
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