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EclipseGS-92

10+ Year Contributor
100
0
Aug 17, 2008
Selma, Alabama
I just got my car back after having numerous changes done. New 650cc injectors, new Punishment racing FMIC and Short route piping, New ECU with Link v3, and converted over to SD.

The guys put me a base tune on the car to get it idling and running on low boost(9psi vs original 17) with no tweaking made.

I had them verify that there was no boost leaks or exhaust leaks as well as replacing the timing belt with a new Mitsu OEM belt and setting base timing. They also checked fuel pressure to be at or around 40psi.

And now on to the problem at hand.

When the car is started cold and not allowed to warm up completely ( mornings i am running late) I get more than 5* knock at no boost around 2200-3200 RPM.

When started warm, it idles high then falls to below 300 and dies without popping the throttle and letting it slowly settle, this also occurs when driving and shifting to neutral prior to a red light at anything over 1800 rpm.

I hooked up the laptop and logged a cruise on the ride home last night to give you an idea of where i am starting in hopes of getting some insight on the process to better refine my tune safely and accurately.( note i dont have access to the forums until atleast monday when sales responds back with my info)

Setup:
650cc FIC injectors
DSMlink v3
Running SD
Fuel pump Rewire
Short route w/ Open dump BOV
Balance Shaft delete on Stock engine Fresh rebuilt 1500 Miles ago,
ACT 2600
xact lite flywheel
Ebay 16g ( ported and polished waste gate flapper and hotside)
2g Exhaust mani
2g Throttle body elbow
OBX Manual Boost Controller
Mishimoto Knock off aluminum rad with dual flex 1400 cfm each

These are all the major drivetrain mods if i need to be more specific let me know.

I will be adding a cold idle log and cruise to show the knocks i am experiencing shortly.
 

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