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| ECMlink Tuning & Log File Advice: For ECMlink owners and potential owners. Post tuning questions and log files here. |
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08-01-2012, 05:20 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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new to v3 help ,
Just got it , zeroed out the maf-t ,set the injectors , set 3.5 maf , set lc-1 wideband and set the sim for front 02 sensor (thats where i put the wideband sensor) ...I still have more videos to watch just need to get a base tune done so i can drive it ..Thanks
also sound like rev limitter once it hits 3k rpms
tunning for 94 oct gas
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08-01-2012, 05:27 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Chicago, Illinois
Registered: Jul 2007
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Lol posted at 4:20 .... What were you doing up at that hour tuning your car huh? Haha
Anyway nice job with figuring it out on your own. Read up some tutorials and get familiarized then you should be tuning soon enough no problems.
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08-01-2012, 05:57 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Orlando, Florida
Registered: Mar 2012
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Awesome now you just gotta get your mods list updated. And the videos are a huge help for getting your initial tune. Watch them a few times.
You should add a few more things to your captured values. Tips: Basic DSMLink Tuning Guide
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08-01-2012, 06:04 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperelite
Lol posted at 4:20 .... What were you doing up at that hour tuning your car huh? Haha
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Shows 0820 for me.
Log more items, as much as you can.
First things I noticed is your LC1 is stuck at 7.5:1. Your Fronto2 is not cycling and is pegged at 0.80v. Your TPS value is set at 0.53v and should be 0.64v (requires manual adjustment of TPS). MAFComp is not showing any value. Your RPM is 300 higher than what you have set.
I'm uploading a changed file for you to start with. Why did you have both the sliders and DA table for fuel and timing messed with? Why was your knock sensor only coming on at 100% throttle?
First thing you need to do is set your throttle position and get your wideband working. It's possible you wired it in wrong (if you put it on the rear o2, just switch it around on link). When that is working, upload a nice long idle, no throttle and log ICSPOsition and LrndIdleAdjust at the least. If you have a log value for your coolant fans, put that on too.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 07:35 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidX
Shows 0820 for me.
Log more items, as much as you can.
First things I noticed is your LC1 is stuck at 7.5:1. Your Fronto2 is not cycling and is pegged at 0.80v. Your TPS value is set at 0.53v and should be 0.64v (requires manual adjustment of TPS). MAFComp is not showing any value. Your RPM is 300 higher than what you have set.
I'm uploading a changed file for you to start with. Why did you have both the sliders and DA table for fuel and timing messed with? Why was your knock sensor only coming on at 100% throttle?
First thing you need to do is set your throttle position and get your wideband working. It's possible you wired it in wrong (if you put it on the rear o2, just switch it around on link). When that is working, upload a nice long idle, no throttle and log ICSPOsition and LrndIdleAdjust at the least. If you have a log value for your coolant fans, put that on too.
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For the time posted i get up all hours of the night to come on
Thanks and to use that i just open it and save to ecu right ? I doj't know why the wideband isn't cycling i hooked it up right and it is in the ,front 02 spot ..sliders and da tables i never touched , maybe the previous owner ?? Knock sensor , not sure why it only comes on at 100% how do i check or fix that ? i will work on the rest today thanks
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08-01-2012, 08:43 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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Yes, just open and save. You can review the changes I made.
The knock sensor WAS set to 100%, that is adjusted.
I would just look over the wiring again and double check it's the correct wire referencing a pin out. Should be there middle white wire on the plug.
The one next to it is the rear and the white wire adjacent with a space is the knock sensor.
I changed the Sliders to zero them out.
Make sure your maf is plugged in too since there wasn't a Hz signal.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 03:25 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Loaded it up , car wouldn't start ..Unplugged the maf-t from the gm-maf and it started right up ....let it idel while logging , then i plugged the maf-t back in , The car died , tryed to start it no go ....When i zeroed the maf-t i just put everything to zero did i do it wrong ..Never played with the maf-t before ..Previous owner had it tuned  ..Posted a long of it also
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08-01-2012, 03:55 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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You still never adjusted your TPS to the proper voltage.
What injectors are you using and did you check your wiring for the wideband? You do have a CEL for the MAS unless on this log.
If you are on 450cc injectors you should have your dead time at 0 I believe. I would suggest reducing your deadtime to 0 and if that doesn't work, add dead time in increments.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 04:00 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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I didn't adjust it yet because of the maf problem with it unpluged ,wont that start to hurt it ...Or will fixing the tps fix that ?It wont start while its plugged in
injectors are 450cc ...I do have some rc 750cc injectors waiting to be installed ..Should i install them then start ?
Checked the widband wires everything looks right this is what i followed
Narrowband simulation install (DB gauge, Logging, ECMlink v3 setup) [LC-1 sensor placed in front o2 spot]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 24)
Brown – ECU pin 15 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge’s white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground
*Note – The brown and yellow wires can be swapped in this scenario.
Edit : i adjusted the tps in dsmlink then , noticed it is now sitting at .67 not started ...and 5volts at wot 100%
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08-01-2012, 04:25 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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I prefer to adjust the TPS by had while watching the TPS voltage value on link (car does not need to be running). Once it is at 0.64, run the TPS adjustment tool in link. Do a datalog (car not running), press gas pedal fully and release. Run the program and continue until there are no more adjustments done.
Get your deadtime down towards 0 and try again with the log.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 05:02 PM
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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Did this run before with the GM MAF?
If you have your stock MAF try using that to see if it runs.
I'll look at the log when I get home.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 05:08 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Yes it ran , and still does when i put my old ecu back in , but as soon as i put in the ecu with link ,It won't, even if i zero the maf-t out ,..It doesn't ...To zero everything out i turn all the nob's to zero , is that right ?
I don't have another maf laying around and i have a custom intake, so tossing a maf in isn't an option..
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08-01-2012, 05:45 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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I never used a translator so I cannot help you there. Did you set DT to 0?
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 06:02 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: La Plata, Maryland
Registered: Oct 2004
Reputation:
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Did you check your ECU for internal damage? I find it odd you can run off your stock ecu but not the one with link with stock settings.
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91 Eclipse GS - DD
06 Mustang GT Turbo
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08-01-2012, 06:04 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Found the problem , i had to set the maf-t for 450cc injectors ...I will let it warm up and take an idel log and we can go from there...i will post in 20-30mins ..Also thanks for the help
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08-01-2012, 06:07 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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Again, you visually and physically checked your wideband connection and the wire it's soldered to?
Since you are running NBS that NEEDS to be cycling unless you lock in closed loop mode. Are you still getting a CEL for your MAF?
____________________________
Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-01-2012, 06:25 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Ok , i don't know what happend it was ideling fine i started loging while it was warming up , after a bit it just died and wouldn't start , i see it shows tps going to 1% + but i did not touch the gas peddle...I also took another log while trying to start it after ...
Yes i double and triple checked the wideband wiring ..I think i do need to reground the button tho ...The wideband is moving on the gauge ?
The cel light for maf ?? in the other thread i had ...That was for a 93 talon i use to have(sold that one) ..
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08-02-2012, 08:26 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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I Finally got it , had a beer sat back and tryed some tweaking..Slid some of the maf comp up , started the car pressed the gas holding it at 1krpm's , adjusted the tps ..Bam it starts and idles ..
Now to fix the wideband , it stays at 21.9 (on the gauge ) press the gas and it goes to 15.x then jumps back up ..Could be the power and ground i used for the gauge ...As i see my boost gauge is not working properly
Any other adjustments i need to make or look at ?
Thanks again for the help
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08-02-2012, 08:35 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: OKC, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2007
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidX
Since you are running NBS that NEEDS to be cycling unless you lock in open loop mode.
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Fixed.
Since you are simulating the NB and your WB isn't logging, the car is stuck in open loop and there is no way of telling how rich or lean you are running.
Personally, I would plug a stock O2 sensor back in while dialing in idle and cruise. This is preferred anyway on a new tune unless you have verified your WB is accurate.
You also need to fix that leaking VC breather port (just a hunch.  )
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08-02-2012, 08:38 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: OKC, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2007
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calan
You also need to fix that leaking VC breather port (just a hunch.  )
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Scratch that. Forgot you are running a GM MAF (in blow-through I assume).
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08-02-2012, 08:39 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Registered: Sep 2008
Reputation:
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I I don't know why I keep getting open and closed backwards. Maybe I just haven't been having car talk for over half the year which is causing it.
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Ƨɔɵƾƾ
97 ṰŠlΩИ ṰƧɨ Λ₩ƿ
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08-02-2012, 08:41 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: OKC, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2007
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidX
I don't know why I keep getting open and closed backwards.
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Yeah... crack is a bitch.
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08-02-2012, 09:19 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Los Angeles, California
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.
edit got on my pc.
okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?
1st change your maf comp slider to stock
2nd clear your dtc
3rd put your target idle back to 750 or 800 (if you do go for 800 adjust the offset)
4th do another tps adjust
5th should your car turn on and idle what is your afr. should be 14.7 but since your doing NBS it will fluctuate from 14.4 to 14.9 aim for closed loop operation
6th let it idle for a bit (warm up to 180) do a combinded ft and click use template, smooth it out.
just do a log all i'll fix it for you.
Last edited by LOLVTEC; 08-02-2012 at 09:41 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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08-02-2012, 09:45 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOLVTEC
I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.
okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?
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1st if i don't have the maf comp sliders like that the car won't idel or stay running even with my foot on the gas
2nd maf settings are at zero except the nob not in line is set for 450 cc injectors with 2 extra to richin it up (2 = 450 cc but i have it at 4 (also with out it this way it will not idel or run)
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08-02-2012, 10:18 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Los Angeles, California
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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You ask for help and you don't do it. Never mind that's why your car doesn't want to run because your maf isn't dialed in correctly with link. your maft is basically a host so link can recognize it. You don't have to richen anything because you can do that with link. That's why you have your maf sliders.
dial in everything first like i said so we can fix every thing else your air flow per rev is way to high. But that might be fixed once you can get your wb to cycle from .20 to .80 for closed loop operation. Then you can do a combined ft and smooth it out. One you have your idle dialed in you have to log a cruise for about 20 mins, try to experience different types of roads such as hills, and what not. Once you have that log, do a combined ft and smooth it out. That should get you going. Once you're familiar with that you can tune at Wot but you need to understand the basics of afrs, timing, and fuel
zero out everything on the maft. Except for your injectors (im not totally sure with that haven't had a maft in awhile) everything needs to be tuned by link now your maft is useless except for the fact that you need it for link to recognize it as a stock maf.
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08-02-2012, 10:24 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOLVTEC
I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.
edit got on my pc.
okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?
1st change your maf comp slider to stock
2nd clear your dtc
3rd put your target idle back to 750 or 800 (if you do go for 800 adjust the offset)
4th do another tps adjust
5th should your car turn on and idle what is your afr. should be 14.7 but since your doing NBS it will fluctuate from 14.4 to 14.9 aim for closed loop operation
6th let it idle for a bit (warm up to 180) do a combinded ft and click use template, smooth it out.
just do a log all i'll fix it for you.
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I didn't see your steps , and i do want help ...But if you check my logs ..I can't do combine ft ...I think its stuck in open loop ..Tomorrow i will reinstall the 02 and do all those steps and see what happens ..My lc1 isn't logging right or is hooked up wrong  lots of things to check try and fix ...
When i zero out the maf-t except for the injector size ,..The car will start then die no matter what , unless i do the tps and the maf comp slider adjustments (I think because it is stuck in open loop because of a non functioning wb )
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08-02-2012, 10:31 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: OKC, Oklahoma
Registered: Jan 2007
Reputation:
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Just so we are all on the same sheet of music here, "Zero the MAF-T" means setting the Base knob for the stock injectors (position 2), and everything else at zero. You also need to check that the switches are set for your MAF size, and lock the intake temp and baro signal in Link on the ECU inputs tab.
This is an old page based on Link V2, but the info is still accurate for the most part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toppertopper
...I think its stuck in open loop ..Tomorrow i will reinstall the 02 and do all those steps and see what happens
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No doubt about it, and a good plan.
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