ECMlink URGENT help after move

[wickedz]

So, I moved from Orlando florida to Michigan. Yes my car was completely tuned for the weather, ect. Now I have been here in Michigan for 5 days of HELL. I have had shitty throttle responce, and stalling from lower RPM, even though my link is set for RPM of 950.

Well today I let her warm up for 10 mins like I always do. I was driving and It was running great, then all of a sudden the alt belt started to squeel like a damn pig, then the RPMs dropped to 0 but the car was still running???? If I gave it gas, I would have to give it ALOT of throttle, and the responce to the motor was way late.

After getting back in the car I drove back home, and after 2 gears of just NOTHING, I got my power back for about 500 RPMs, then it went back to shitty running. It acted like I lost all compression.

Well sitting in the driveway for 5 mins, I called my father to let him know my dsm is down AGAIN. The car was spitting and sputtering and not blowing out any smoke out my exhaust, and its 34 degrees out so it should have smoke. Anyway it was spitting and studdering and then all of a sudden it cleared its throat , and then I got a 950 RPM steady nice idle, and steady normal cold smoke out the exhaust. I pulled a LOG if anyone can look at it for me. Something happen, but it fixed itself.

Im worried I may need to have my car ReTUNED again.

Please help me

95 TSi
V3 Full
Speed Density
Evo 560's
COP
Stock FPR/Rail
Greddy FMIC setup
HKS Bov
14b turbo
EGR delete
PS Delete
AC Delete
Stock fuel pump I believe

 

[gofer]

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[Imback]

Check your power transistor

 

[wickedz]

i hope this works

 

[LiquidX]

Like Corey posted, if you have Link, post a log with as much logged data as possible even if you don't think it's useful.

If you aren't familiar on how to do it, make your log, go under your recent post and click on "go advanced". You'll attach the log just like you would a picture. Make sure it's a .egl file.

 

[wickedz]

Like Corey posted, if you have Link, post a log with as much logged data as possible even if you don't think it's useful.

I added the attachment but its not showing up. any ideas how to post my log on here?>

log.2011.12.14-01.elg:
Your file of 609.3 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 488.7 KB for this filetype.

 

[LiquidX]

You may just need to shorten the log. Go in your log, view the trouble area, and select it all with the cursor i.e. highlight it. Then do a 'clip to selection' and it will clip the whole selection you made onto a new log so it's smaller.

 

[LiquidX]

Here are his logs.

Off the bat I noticed that your WB is max rich which is in relation to your Extremly negative Combined FT. Your TPS is adjust wrong as well as it should be at 0.64v at 0% throttle and yours is set to 0.57v. Your o2 sensor doesn't cycle at idle which may just be because of your tune so I wouldn't stress that yet since it cycles everywhere else.

 

[wickedz]

also the comp is 170 170 150 170

Here are his logs.

Off the bat I noticed that your WB is max rich which is in relation to your Extremly negative Combined FT. Your TPS is adjust wrong as well as it should be at 0.64v at 0% throttle and yours is set to 0.57v. Your o2 sensor doesn't cycle at idle which may just be because of your tune so I wouldn't stress that yet since it cycles everywhere else.

this log was pulled AFTER the crappy running

Adjusting the TPS, do I just hook up my laptop to the link cable, and turn TPS? I mean how will I know im at the required .63v at 0% throttle?

 

[LiquidX]

Yup, rotate it until you read 0.64v on link. You'll need to reset your throttle % afterwards using the throttle tool.

Well your 'tune' id no longer a tune. It needs redone.

 

[bradselph]

also the comp is 170 170 150 170



this log was pulled AFTER the crappy running

Adjusting the TPS, do I just hook up my laptop to the link cable, and turn TPS? I mean how will I know im at the required .63v at 0% throttle?

Follow this video Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube

You may even wanna watch other videos by jafromobile as well.

 

[wickedz]

I adjusted the TPS back to .63v and at 100% throttle link shows 5.02v which I believe is good. So at this point, Im still maxing out my AFRs 17s and 18, and when that happens, my RPMs on tach show 0 at idle (rough idle but running), and if Im driving I can barely hit 1200 RPM at 55mph, while Link is showing 3k RPM at 55 mph. When all this is going on, my combined fuel trim is HIGH and my o2 isnt cycling like it should. If you continue to drive the car while its acting retarded like this, the AFRs might go back to normal, which will hiccup the car like clean it out, and it drives normal again, and goes back and forth between LEAN and normal.


So frustrated my car is untunable I swear

 

[gofer]

Test the IPT using this write-up. ---> IPT Testing or ask a buddy to borrow theirs that you know is good.

On a 2g the tach signal comes from the IPT however, it also controls current flow to the coil. You could be seeing the symptoms of a failing IPT, it just hasn't completely failed yet or only does it when it gets warmed up.

 

[bmoha7321]

This might sound dumb but make sure you're not running straight water for coolant. Might sound like a no brainer but I moved with my car from ca to mi and even tho I had a 50/50 mix in it... It was -46 degrees by the next night after I got there and it froze solid. Cracked the head.

 

[wickedz]

would this have anything to do with my COP setup as well? just asking please forgive me. My poor Florida car is freaking out right now with snow on it

This might sound dumb but make sure you're not running straight water for coolant. Might sound like a no brainer but I moved with my car from ca to mi and even tho I had a 50/50 mix in it... It was -46 degrees by the next night after I got there and it froze solid. Cracked the head.

never a dumb question because it could have been issue. however in FL I was running water, but after I got here, we did a complete system clean and coolant good to -50.

EVEN on cold start after you can get idle, the car would drive NORMAL for maybe 1 min then drop on its face with straight LEAN afr and o2 just quits and the combine FT comp and is dumbing fuel left and right.

I dont drive my car like this if I can help it. I have NO IDEA what this is doing to my motor :-(

 

[gofer]

Anythings possible but with the tach issues you're seeing, along with everything else, the first thing I'd try testing or borrowing from a local DSMer (junkyard) is a IPT. I'm not familiar with COP setups but if R&R'ing the IPT doesn't do anything I'd start looking at the COP. Possibly going back to stock if you've still got the hardware to do it?

 

[wickedz]

unfortunally I left all my parts and whatnot back in FL, because I only packed the talon with what was needed for moving.

Im on 4 bar MAP speed Density. Could that be a issue for the colder weather? its bunged into my 2g TB elbow

 

[ed1380]

I adjusted the TPS back to .63v and at 100% throttle link shows 5.02v which I believe is good. So at this point, Im still maxing out my AFRs 17s and 18, and when that happens, my RPMs on tach show 0 at idle (rough idle but running), and if Im driving I can barely hit 1200 RPM at 55mph, while Link is showing 3k RPM at 55 mph. When all this is going on, my combined fuel trim is HIGH and my o2 isnt cycling like it should. If you continue to drive the car while its acting retarded like this, the AFRs might go back to normal, which will hiccup the car like clean it out, and it drives normal again, and goes back and forth between LEAN and normal.


So frustrated my car is untunable I swear

I would change the transistor. Couple days ago my buddy's car was doing the same (perfect idle and then 10 seconds later rough idle while showing 0 rpm) he changed the tps, isc, ecu, etc. I swapped the transistor and its running like a dream again

The transistor is what controls the tach. It was a dead giveaway

 

[wickedz]

How about the ISC sensor? think that would cause all the issues as well?

 

[ed1380]

An isc problem will cause idle issues but the tach will still be showing at least 300.

 

[snowborder714]

Speed density is not affected by weather as some MAF/MAS's are, so there should be no issue there.

You should adjust your SD cells to bring your AirFlowPerRev up to .26. Then you'll need to adjust your deadtime to bring your CombinedFT to 0%.

Your ISCPosition is also sitting at 100. Test it - http://web.archive.org/web/20100815101158/http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html

If it tests ok, then either you need to adjust your BISS screw or possibly do a boost leak test and fix any leaks.

 

[wickedz]

any idea on how to adjust the SD tables? I have no idea. you feel comfortable messing with it, and sending it to me, to see if it fixes my FT?

 

[airmail96]

I thought SD was effected by temperature and MAFs weren't. Only reason I say that is because the colder the weather the more dense the air.

 

[wickedz]

Im not sure, but that was the first thing that came to my mind, and also someone mentioned to go back to a 2g maf, but that would mean changing my setup. blah

 

[snowborder714]

any idea on how to adjust the SD tables? I have no idea. you feel comfortable messing with it, and sending it to me, to see if it fixes my FT?

Yes, I do know how, but it will be much easier for you to try and set idle by adjusting it yourself. You'll need to watch the AirFlowPerRev while adjusting. The easiest way is to track the log in the SD table window and then detach the table. This way you can see what cells are being used while at idle. Then make an adjustment one way and see how the value is affected.

I thought SD was effected by temperature and MAFs weren't. Only reason I say that is because the colder the weather the more dense the air.

It is (maybe I didn't convey my thoughts properly), which is why you have the IAT sensor. But your car should run no differently if you drove from Florida to Alaska and didn't change a thing in your tune.