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1995 Eagle Talon Tsi Engine Shave/Build

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DSM's 4 life

10+ Year Contributor
649
14
Nov 13, 2011
Buffalo, New_York
I Purchased my talon back in September for 1,800 he was asking 2,500 so I thought I did well. I know I didn't get an amazing deal but I Don't feel like I got ripped off due to all the performance parts I have found in the car. It has Fresh pearl paint with blue flake. I sold the APEX Neo piggy back controller he had in the car for $170 I found that he had FIC 450cc injectors in the car, new rear brake lines, new driver-side tie rod, and I got some awesome powder coated lancer rims.

My goal for the car
I purchased the car running but it soon stopped shortly after i noticed the timing had jumped i realigned my cams and crank but still no luck I figure If I'm taking the head off I might as well pull it.

The factory color on the car was green and you can see it in the engine bay I am planning on sandblasting with wall nut shells and spraying it white to match the car along with doing some shaving of the bay so far I have removed the Evap canister, cruse control, and I am planning on relocating the battery and doing some wire tucks.
 

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Tips no just a engine your pulling out. Youll see when you start, what needs to done fairly simple , a few bolts, cherry picker, or not and its out.
 
The hardest part is pulling the front axels as for everything else take your time and label all the connectors and put your bolts in labeled bags. If you ever get frustrated walk away and come back to it the next day if you need help you have a huge community here that is more than willing to help.
 
"99 GST" If you are planning on removing both of them I would do it all at once.

I spent the past two days striping the firewall and surrounding engine bay of all the components or as much as I could do while keeping the dash in the car.
I used an angle die-grinder with a wire wheel attachment to clean the surface in preparation of primer and paint the bay seemed to have been covered in a thin layer of dirt, grease, and undercoating maybe that's why my car wasn't that rusty. :D
 

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I'm not sure what the back is off of it has the half moon reverse lights not the circular ones and the middle section is not badged the front bumper is off a 99 I think.
 

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damn!! those black tailights are sick and that IC pipe is dope as hell EYE KANDY!!!
 
thats the 2ga rear bumper. the bumper with small circles for reverse lights is the 2gb bumper.
 
:D My face once I separated the bell-housing from the engine. ACT Clutch and pressure plate nice little surprise.

:confused: If you look on the pressure plate you can see it's scratched not to deep but enough to rub the paint off It was barely scraping on the transmission bell housing. How did this happen?

Today I scuffed the engine bay, removed all the mounts on the transmission removed clutch fork, bearing, and lines Im going to be doing this build in stages to avoid huge piles of parts my next priority is getting the chassis back into a roller I need new upper control arms on both sides new tie rod end on the passenger side and new bushings on the piece that the strut goes through the previous owner put a socket through the bushing as a metal retainer believe it or not.
 

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I Tried to clean my transmission as best as I could before I dismantled it to take a look at the gears 2nd an 4th seem to be giving me some trouble I soaked it with De-greaser than sprayed if off at a self serve car wash. One of the bolts on the case broke off at the head I drilled it out I am not sure how to address this later when I go to assemble that case back together.



I started to paint the sub-frame and all the metal lines black with rustoleum other than what you see everything else will be high gloss white with a lot of clear coat.
The block will be hot tanked and painted black and the transmission left bare after I hot tank it as well.
 

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I went to Lowe's yesterday and bought the paint for $33 I ended up going with oil based paint and thinning it with acetone They had three types of primer there. I was going to use the clean metal primer but it was white so I figured it would be a bi*$h when I sprayed the white paint over it knowing what had not been painted yet. The other one was a gray primer but it was latex based and that's not recommended to be used with guns plus I figured it would not be as durable so i went with rusty metal primer I think it turned out well a lot better than before.


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Trying to keep the bay shaven is very hard to do I thought it would look cleaner than it is now but I am not sure what else I can delete

I am deleting:
Evap can
emission lines
cruse control
AC pump and lines
battery relocation and fuse box tuck More on this later...

After 5 hours of reassembly Its coming into shape I dropped my transmission off at my buddy house so he can take it to harkness an automotive program in our school district to have it hot tanked.

Here is a picture of what my bay looks like at the moment all clean! and polished:
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I got my transmission back from hot taking its not as clean as I expected but it looks a lot better. I started to open my block up i found that I had a T25 stock turbo Bearing in my oil pan i did not see any damage though my main bearings seem fine as well none of them have any significant where but they will be replaced in the rebuild My plans are as follows:
Hot tanked
Resurfaced
bored .02 over
crank polishing
new main and rod bearings
Full ECM link
272Cams New comp cams or used HKS?
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new suspension components still need a new tie rod end on the one side
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Block looks fine I noticed that the gasket was not paper so it has seen a head gasket job
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started to do some polishing
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Those main bearings look pretty wiped to me. There's shouldn't really be wear marks on them in big streaks like that. IT doesn't mean that the crank isn't ok enough to toss in somenew bearings and be good to go, but i definitely would say those were on their last leg and probablyu wouldn't have lasted much longer before one spun.

Got any pics of how the trans came out?
 
Ok today I tried to get my shopping list in order here is what I am looking at getting if anyone has any suggestions please let me know I'm not trying to overpay.

NEW PARTS
DKS2 272 Cams -$297
DSM linkFull -$545
OEM gasket kit -$279
STD ACL Bearings -$80
Gates belts -$138
OEM belt tensioner-$92.10
Injecters

Used Parts In new condition I am looking for
FWD ACT flywheel
AFPR
FWd axels
 
OEM head gaskets aren't paper they are composite. I would look into extremepsi.com for most of your parts. They seem to be the cheapest and you can get a whole timing belt kit from them. You get multiple options when choosing what you want on your timing belt. Don't forget about the balance shaft delete kit. Just a suggestion. Good Luck man. Working on my own car at the moment.
 
I wouldn't go any cheaper than the Felpro Head gasket kit. You really just need the lower crank case kit and the throttle body elbow gasket those are really the only other gasket don't come with those kits. Oh and rear main seal. Good luck.
 
Got the remainder of my block broken down 80% of my rod bearings had physical wear One looks like it was miles from being spun:|

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Block and crank ready to be dropped off at a machine shop
Resurface,hone,and crank pollishing

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