The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

clutch pedal will stick after cap flew off and lost fluid

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wolfman099

Probationary Member
25
0
Sep 19, 2003
about a month and a half ago, i was racing at a local drag strip. i do a burnout, and pull up to the line... i'm racing another 98 GS-T, the light turns green, i gun it and my car goes no where.. smoke goes up in the air and my clutch is stuck on the floor. they pushed my car off the line. one of the other DSM guys tells me to check my fluid, and the cap for it had actually flew off and thats what caused the smoke. i put some new dot 3 brake fluid in it, and pumped it up for a while and it worked. i waited about a week b4 i bled the lines. i also drove it about 500 miles like that. after i bled the lines it will still stick. it sucks. it doesnt do it that much when i am driving, but when i let anyone else drive they just complain because my clutch sticks to the ground. one of my honda buddys said it might be the master cylinder, since i didnt bleed it fast enough it might have messed it up and it is letting air into the lines. does anyone have any idea? my car still launches great. i have the centerforce dual friction racing clutch. if i do have to replace the master or secondary cylinder, does anyone have any idea how much this would cost??? thanks for any info.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
You either

A) Arent bleeding it properly
B) master cylinder or slave cylinder are bad
C) You have a leak.

Are you losing fluid still? If not then look under the dash and check to see if the rod that is attatched to your clutch pedal and goes through the firewall, has fluid on it. If so, rebuild the master cylinder. Rebuild kits are only a few dollars for that and for the slave cylinder.

If you are 100% sure you are bleeding it right, then I would go with B. Even if your master cylinder rod doesnt have fluid on it, it could be bad...mine was.

Good luck.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top