Trans Rebuild Parts List

[rhinouga]

Ok I've done A LOT of research and came up with this list of parts. All I need to know is if it is correct. I will have the shop order the snap rings, shims, bearings, races, and seals. The rest i will order myself. The below list is for a 1990 AWD to get the following parts: GVR4 1st, 93+ 2nd Synchro, and 90 for 3rd, 4th, 5th, and reverse. Thanks again for the help. I really look forward to having this done.

1st/2nd Shift Fork Pins MD701722
3rd/4th Shift Fork Pins MD701722
5th/R Shift Fork Pins MD701722
2 x 36mm stake nuts MD731948
1st Synchro MD742419
2nd Synchro (94+) MD745896
3rd Synchro MD730385 or MD730086
4th Synchro MD730385 or MD730086
5th Synchro MD728990
Reverse Synchro MD724884
1/2 Hub Sleeve MD742468 or MD746144
3/4 Hub Sleeve MD735298 or MD746826
1st Gear (GVR4) MD743177
2nd Gear (94+) MD743572
Input Shaft MD741634 or MD747883
Intermediate Shaft MD738952 or MD748930
Trans filter screen MD738053
1/2 Shift Fork TRE EVO 1/2
3/4 Shift Fork TRE EVO 1/2

The part #'s are off of CAPS. So is my list complete?

Thanks again
-Ryan

 

[josh long]

hey let us know how the gvr4 gear/ input shaft work out. I would like to do this as I have a vr4 with a eclipse tranny in it. I drove the one I rebuilt and It shifts beautifully even downshifts into 1st at 25mph smoothly! I am building a rally car so this is all relavant. I need the longer 1st gear bad!

also I would wait until you get it torn apart before ordering,so you can visually inspect all the gears/hub sliders ect. I used a dremel tool to clean up the sliders/gear faces. also you can look at the synchros and measure the clearance to see whitch of those you need to replace. I will not replace somthing for the sake of replacing it. But thats me! my tranny would not stay in 1,2,3 gear before. I swapped in hub sliders from a parts tranny and got 1st and 2nd synchros I can now shift 1st to 2nd at 6k+ rpms.

do it yourself. if you can get the tranny out you can fix it!

A press is the most tech tool you need.

 

[rhinouga]

Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the hub/sliders and synchros anyways because this is going to be a track car for a good bit of it's life to come. Also I would do the rebuild myself, but I found a local trans shop that comes highly recommended that will do the rebuild for $150 plus parts. Thanks again, I'll let you know how the gear turns out.

-Ryan

 

[TalonspoolAWD]

i think som of those part #'s may have superceded to new numbers. Make sure that you set the PRELOAD on the shafts. plus you will need a press to get the bearings off. YOU WILL NEED NEW BEARINGS ON THE SHAFTS ALSO, AND MAYBE A COUPLE NEW SNAP RINGS (WHICH ARE AVAILABLE IN MANY SIZES) To set the PRELOAD you will have to do a SOLDER CRUSH TEST, WHICH IS PUT 2 PIECES of SOLDER ON THE CASE WHERE THE BEARING GOES, LEAVING THE SPACER OUT. THEN TORQUE THE CASE TO THE CORRET TORQUE. I think it is like 29ft/lbs. TAKE IT BACK APART AND MEASURE THE SOLDER THICKNESS WITH A MICROMETER. THEN CALL MITSU AND ORDER A SPACER CLOSE TO THAT SIZE.
Tom