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Transmission rebuild(swapping internals)

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92redman

20+ Year Contributor
1,096
6
Oct 10, 2002
Holland, Michigan
Hey guys, I have been driving around for about a year now with a bad transmission and it is just getting so bad now that I can hardly drive it anymore.
Anyways, I got a hold of a free tranny this winter from a guy who thought that it was blown, but after i got it home I realized it wasn't the tranny, it was the differential. One of the gears had broken and blew a 4" hole in the housing.

Anyway, my plan is to transfer all the good transmission components from that tranny, to my housing and differential. I am looking for any tips to make sure that I end up with a well-rebuilt tranny and not some crap thatll be worse than before that I will tear apart and spend a thousand dollars to have somebody else do it or me.
I would also like to know if there is anything I should do to ensure that I will be able to get fast, smooth shifts at higher rpm(sick of trying to force the tranny into gears at speeds about 4,000 rpm)

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
 
Hey 92redman, Im on the same boat as you. My differential broke so i bought a transmission core. Now I need to do the same thing. make one good tranny out of two bad ones. Actually youre pretty lucky, getting that quote on quote blown tranny, when it was only the differential. Good Luck...
 
Well then, for the sake of us both(and our rides), I hope we get some good responses. Hope your's turns out good as well.




DSM trannies: can't live with 'em, can't drive with out 'em :(
 
I don't understand the swapping of parts between 2 used/broken transmissions. Since the transmission is already going to be opened up and apart, you would be better off rebuilding it, replacing all the worn parts with new parts instead of used and worn parts from a transmission that was blown (meaning metal shaving could've been floating around - not good for tranny parts). You'll have a better, stronger transmission instead of some Frankenstein transmission put together with used parts that are already somewhat worn.
 
Actually the reason im going to do this is because my tranny was only 4 months old, so the internals where basically new,, barely broken in.. mines is a 97 fwd tubro eclispe.
 
I would tear down all the shafts, clean everything and inspect the parts. If he drove around with any broken parts in it, they could have got in between the gears, bearings or other parts. If metal got into the bearings and grooved the races it wont be long before the tranny fails. Any damage to gear faces will make a noisy and over time make a weak,(wait this is a mitsubishi), even weaker tranny. Even though mitsubishi parts are of good quality youll want to make sure that when you put the good parts into your original case the bearings have the right pre load, and be sure to use the original races that go with the bearings. If you want to make your tranny shift fast remove some of the slider engagement teeth off of the synchro ring and the gear:) It will shift faster but it wont last real long:(
 
I forgot to comeback and reply after the rebuild was complete.

The Frankenstein tranny works great! It took some modification of the shift rails because the 94 trannies have thicker ones that accomodate the beefier shift fork and sleeve.
 
Hey whats up redman, good to hear everything turned out good. I got mine put together, everything works good but revers, sometimes grinds somethimes it doesnt.?? all in all its working.
 
Good to hear it man, it is always nice to hear what the DIYers can do when they put their mind's to it.

Oh, and don't quote me on it, but I think that ring that looks like a blocker ring but is on the end of the shaft assemblhy is a brake that is suupposed to help shifting into reverse.

Have you tried kissing 5th gear(not actually going into 5th but just touching it) before dropping it into reverse?
 
Hey thanks man, lots of help, ive tried kissing 5th and sometimes just going into 5th, then neautral then revers, , everytime i do it it doesnt grind. :thumb: , thanks alot, sometimes i forget and it grinds, ive been doing it since you last posted just to make sure it wasnt a coincidence.
what did you mean by the blocker ring on the shaft, thats the internals of the transmission?? ive got the image of the throw out bearing, unless youre talking about the other end where revers is, internally.
 
Yeah I'm talking internally. Blocker ring is a more proper term for synchronizer because they actually block you from going into gear until the shaft speeds match. Also called dog rings I think.
 
Damn, I guess Roadrace missed that. they put the tranny itself together for me since i was getting the quife installed at the same time. They have a high reputation. but i guess since it was put togher by a bunch of used parts i cant blame them. anyhow i wont be racing anyone in reverse at least no time soon.
 
I am currently rebuilding my 92TSI tranny. I am putting new syncro rings in for 1,2, plus a new hub an slider. A friend of mine is the manager at a mitsu dealer so he hooks me up on prices and torque specs. Here is some valuable input. FOR DSM TRANNY'S You have to set the PRE LOAD on the shafts. You CANNOT just take it apart and slap it back together. EVERYTHING MUST BE MEASURED AND Spacer RINGS MUST BE INSTALLED TO ACOMADATE THE TOLERANCES. THE WAY TO DO THIS IS WITH A SOLDER CRUSH TEST AND MEASURE THE THICKNESS OF THE SOLDER WITH A MICROMETER, THEN ORDER A MITSU. SPACER OF THAT CLOSEST SIZE. THIS MUST BE DONE FOR THE SHAFTS AND DIFFERENTIAL,PLUS IF YOU TAKE THE SHAFTS APART (YOU NEED A PRESS) TO DO SYNCROS YOU HAVE TO ORDER SPACERS FOR THE CLEARENCE OF NEW BEARINGS. TORQUE ON THE 2 SHAFT NUTS ARE 109 FT/LBS. AND I THINK THAT THE CASE IS 29 FT/LBS BUT DONT QUOTE ME ON THAT.
I ALSO HAVE 5TH AND REV. SYNCRO RINGS FOR SALE SINCE I ORDERD THEM AS A MISTAKE. THEY ARE BRAND NEW IN THE PACKAGE.
JUST PICKED THEM UP TODAY
$30 PLUS SHIPPING
HOPE THIS HELPS IF ANYONE ALREADY DIDN'T KNOW THIS
TOM
 
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