Clutch line rumor......fact or fiction?

[Dieselboy]

Heard someone oversay that if you use a steel braided clutch, line rather than a stocker, that it may relieve some of the pedal pressure of the ACT 2600? Is this a factual benifit and also are there any other gains to getting a steel braided line? One last thing, if alls good, where can I find one?

Thanks,

 

[98TsiAWD]

It might, think about this. If you push a clutch in and the hose expands (stock line) then that it relieved pressure and it is not getting to where it needs to go effeciently.
Now a SS line will not expand, thus more effecient at getting the fluid there.

 

[Defiant]

You could change pedal pressure with a different size slave cylinder, but I know of no one who would.

RRE has the SS line.

 

[TalonESi]

Remove the clutch restrictor in the slave cylinder and put in about an 1-2 inch shorter (more efficient) hydrolic line and bend it into place.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by TalonESi
put in about an 1-2 inch shorter (more efficient) hydrolic line and bend it into place.

Hm? No. It's hydraulic, you'd have to get up to several yards before the length will matter. Fluids won't measurably compress in routine life.

 

[Flat Lined]

Extreme also sells them, I got mine cheap and did notice a small difference.

 

[TalonESi]

Originally posted by Defiant


Hm? No. It's hydraulic, you'd have to get up to several yards before the length will matter. Fluids won't measurably compress in routine life.

Hm, okay. No point in having so much extra piping, so if you replace the line you might as well get a slightly smaller one.

 

[GRNDSM]

Lines do not make a difference in how "hard" the pedal feels. Rubber line might make you clutch feel more “spongy”, so if anything, SST will make it fell “firmer”, that is the main purpose for getting it. You want softer pedal? Get a softer pressure plate...

You could also experiment with FW step variations but whatever you gain in softer feel of the pedal, will translate into weaker grip in the pressure plate. So you may just as well start with a softer PP in the first place.

Leon
RR

 

[TalonESi]

Well a CM Stage I clutch has the same pedal pressure as the stock clutch but w/ 70% more clamp force

 

[GRNDSM]

And around 70% more problems

I just do know anyone happy with thier CM clutch around here...

Leon
RR

 

[TalonESi]

I haven't had a single problem w/ mine, and it grips like a mug.

 

[Dieselboy]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
You want softer pedal? Get a softer pressure plate...

Leon
RR

I never said I didnt like the pressure there bud, I was simply asking if it was fact or fiction. I actually love the way my 2600 feels/grips

 

[GRNDSM]

In that case: Fiction .

Leon
RR

 

[boost junkies]

i was just like you when i got my ACT 2600 clutch. the pedal was so stiff that i couldn't bear it in traffic. you need a longer cylinder rod in the slave cylinder located on the bell housing. that's the only way to soften the pedal pressure correctlly.

for the ss issue. the reason why people use that is to remove the accumulator which is a DSM thing to help assist in building clutch pressure. remove that because w/ the 2600 you'll have enough pressure that is why the pedal feels so heavy.

 

[TalonESi]

A longer cylinder rod would just change the engagement time (eg push the release bearing too far). If the rod were thinner around, the pressure would be multiplied but, it wouldn't be stable so thin.

 

[boost junkies]

Originally posted by TalonESi
A longer cylinder rod would just change the engagement time (eg push the release bearing too far). If the rod were thinner around, the pressure would be multiplied but, it wouldn't be stable so thin.

my motto is "proof is in the pudding". I bought the the longer cylinder rod from taboo speed shop and that was the only thing that made the pedal pressure for the 2600 bearable. And i did all the adjustments that RRE told me to do. New fulcrum Pivot ball, Billet clutch fork, remove the accumulator, i even shimmed the fulcrum to get the correct geometry. all of this did not work until I got that longer rod. as for the engagement point it did not seem to change. and i thought that the adjustment for the engagement is a rod located in the master cyl connected to the clutch pedal under the dash.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to prove you wrong or anything. I don't claim to be DSM expert either. I'm just explaining my experiences. And just to validate the work on my car, my mechanic works as mechanic for a Mitsu Dealership.

 

[TalonESi]

Well if you get a new fulcrum pivot ball and billet clutch fork you change the leverage, which you would either need a longer or shorter rod to push it the same distance, in your case a longer one.

I was referring to the stock leverage.

I know someone in a higher physics can verify this for me.

 

[gsxtasy]

How far is the rod supposed to stick outta the cylinder? I was thinkin that it wasnt possible cause ther is like only half inch or so left in the cylinder when my clutch is up... maybe i should just bleed it and give her a whirl gosh i hope so i was worried i would have to take off my tranny off AGAIN. thanks

 

[zac83]

just drive an old willys jeep aorund for a while: you'll get used to your 2600 lb pressure plate force real quick I found that shimming the pivot ball and getting forks/fulcrums is the best way to go. if you do it with adjustable rods: you best be VERY very smart with all of this (do the math..) if your throwout bearing dosnt have any height above the pressure plate surface, then you'll fry that thing in no time flat. there are things you have to take into account on this clutch stuff...

 

[Taboo]

Originally posted by TalonESi
A longer cylinder rod would just change the engagement time (eg push the release bearing too far). If the rod were thinner around, the pressure would be multiplied but, it wouldn't be stable so thin.

Originally posted by TalonESi
Well if you get a new fulcrum pivot ball and billet clutch fork you change the leverage, which you would either need a longer or shorter rod to push it the same distance, in your case a longer one.

I was referring to the stock leverage.

I know someone in a higher physics can verify this for me.

A longer slave cylinder rod will not change the engagement time since the pistons of the master and slave cylinders + the rod still travel the same distance. No matter how long the rod is, the throw of the fork is limited by the bellhousing of the tranny that acts as a stop. The only thing the longer slave cylinder rod will do is allowing more preload of the clutch if installed without bleeding/opening the hydraulic system, which will consequently allow the piston of the slave cylinder to rest deeper inside its bore while girving the master cylinder a greater range of adjustability.
The geometry of the clutch release system itself is not affected by shimming the pivot ball. The only reason for shimming the pivot ball is the decrease of the distance of the t/o bearing in relation to the diaphragm of the pressure plate + increasing the possible throw of the fork that is defined by the stroke of the master cylinder and limited by the distance between the recessed back of the fork and the bellhousing.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch.htm

 

[boost junkies]

taboo....... thanks for making available the longer rod. that was the only thing that made the 2600 clutch bearable. keep up the great R & D work. looking for more of your products in the future.