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Low thrust bearing force PP options?

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Artago

15+ Year Contributor
2,093
31
Nov 30, 2006
North Vancouver, BC, Canada
Hi, my second ACT clutch took a dump and I'm looking around for other options. I had a 2600 before and 2100 now.

What I was is:

1. PP that will hold 350 lb/ft of torque
2. PP with less (or same) force than the ACT 2100 (soft of thrust bearings)

What are my pressure plate options?

ClutchNet Yellow maybe? Fidanza 2.1? Other?

Thanks,

Tomas
 
Last edited:
Southbend SS? The SS-Series pressure plate has a clamping force of ~2050-2100#

It's going to be my next clutch... which I'll need in about a month or two. Tim Zimmer sells them (Twicks69).

TMZ Performance
 
Southbend SS? The SS-Series pressure plate has a clamping force of ~2050-2100#

It's going to be my next clutch... which I'll need in about a month or two. Tim Zimmer sells them (Twicks69).

TMZ Performance

Cool. Thanks.

Any other suggestions? I'd like a list of options before making a purchase.

Thanks again,

Tom
 
Any other suggestions? I'd like a list of options before making a purchase.

The Fidanza 2.1 is an option and the full-face carbon/kevlar friction surface is better than an organic disc. It's rated at 303 ft-lbs of torque. with a clamping force of 2200lbs.

The Southbend SS is rated up to 550 ft-lbs torque. Now that I think about it, I'm liking the the Fidanza 2.1 a bit more for my car... :hmm:
 
Good buddy of mine daily-drove his '95 TSi AWD with an ACT2600 Street Disc and Streetlite Flywheel setup from around 99k until 139k; it wasn't until the car made over 200 passes down the dragstrip over three years that it started slipping. That engine is currently on a stand in my shop while the car gets a complete makeover- 139k on the stock 7-bolt and not one bit of thrust play.

That clutch is actually going back into the car when the engine goes back in; it's getting a new, sprung 6-puck disc and the flywheel resurfaced.

Jeff was always careful to start the car without the clutch pushed in while he owned it; he attributes this to be one of the main factors that the thrust bearing has no wear at all.
 
The clamping force is nearly identical on the SBC pressure plate, and has a higher torque capacity with their full-face kevlar clutch material.

I guess, go with the cheaper clutch and try it. When it fails, purchase the SBC.
 
The Fidanza 2.1 is an option and the full-face carbon/kevlar friction surface is better than an organic disc. It's rated at 303 ft-lbs of torque. with a clamping force of 2200lbs.

The Southbend SS is rated up to 550 ft-lbs torque. Now that I think about it, I'm liking the the Fidanza 2.1 a bit more for my car... :hmm:

The SS is definitely the better clutch. I just wish it wasn't $160 more than a 2.1

It is very appealing but I wanted to figure out all my options first before buying.

I appreciate the advice, please keep it coming :thumb:

Good buddy of mine daily-drove his '95 TSi AWD with an ACT2600 Street Disc and Streetlite Flywheel setup from around 99k until 139k; it wasn't until the car made over 200 passes down the dragstrip over three years that it started slipping. That engine is currently on a stand in my shop while the car gets a complete makeover- 139k on the stock 7-bolt and not one bit of thrust play.

That clutch is actually going back into the car when the engine goes back in; it's getting a new, sprung 6-puck disc and the flywheel resurfaced.

Jeff was always careful to start the car without the clutch pushed in while he owned it; he attributes this to be one of the main factors that the thrust bearing has no wear at all.

I had a ACT 2600 with a full face disc. I wasn't a big fan of it because I got stuck in stop n' go twice a day. The motor ended up walking, most likely due to me pressing the clutch a million times in traffic.

I really need something I can use as a DD and have it be reliable and durable enough for some spirited driving and maybe the track once in a while.

Thanks for the input though.

The clamping force is nearly identical on the SBC pressure plate, and has a higher torque capacity with their full-face kevlar clutch material.

I guess, go with the cheaper clutch and try it. When it fails, purchase the SBC.

I'm not arguing for or against any particular clutch. I simply wanted to know my options.

My number one concern is reliability and durability. I don't want a clutch that will fail or wear out in 30k of normal driving. I don't mind spending a little extra if it will be reliable. I'm sick of dropping the tranny (or motor). I've done it like 5 times already.

Dee tells me you sell Southbend's.

Are there any issues with the discs? IE: spring popping out

How do they hold so much torque with just a 2100 lb clamp force? Special disc material, special pressure plate design or something else?

You sell the sell the SS pressure plate and TZ disc on your site, correct?

Do you also sell the HD pressure plate with either the Rally disc or TZ disc?

What's the clamp load on the HD plate? Is it more thrust bearing friendly or about the same?

What torque would the HD plate hold with the Rally disc? How about HD plate + TZ disc?

What's more reliable/durable?

Basically what I'm asking is what plate (HD or SS) and what disc (Rally or TZ) should I go with and why?

I do not plan to make more than 350 lb/ft of torque and durability is my main concern.

Thanks Tim.
 
Last edited:
My number one concern is reliability and durability. I don't want a clutch that will fail or wear out in 30k of normal driving.

Tell me about it... my current clutch lasted 30k with no more than 15-20 launches on a DD.

The clamping force is nearly identical on the SBC pressure plate, and has a higher torque capacity with their full-face kevlar clutch material.

I guess, go with the cheaper clutch and try it. When it fails, purchase the SBC.

Are the 2.1's prone to failure? I hope you aren't saying that cheap clutches fail and expensive ones don't. :p The ACT clutches are the same price as the the SBCs!
 
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