Misc. clutch questions

[Artago]

Hey Paul, can I ask you a few questions about your clutch setup.

Where did you order your ClutchNet disk from? Was is from ClutchNet directly?

My ACT 2600 (with street disk) broke. I don't know why yet because I haven't taken it apart yet (I'm on vacation in Europe now and I had no time to drop the tranny before my flight). All I know is that at least one or more of the PP fingers are broken (I peaked inside the clutch fork hole). Anyways, I was planning on replacing my 2600 PP with a 2100 PP and then matching that with a ClutchNet "Smooth Lock" disk. See my thread here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/346613-clutchnet-disks.html

My question is regarding the 6 pad sprung disk you are going with. I was considering that disk over the full face disk but I'm worried about harsh engagement. My car is a DD so I need the engagement to be smooth. Can you provide some feedback on the 6 pad disk once you've installed it please? If you could append your review to my thread that would be super.

Also, I had my motor build a while ago and I had it walk about 6 months after I dropped it in with the ACT 2600. I've been reading RRE's pedal pressure info page (found here: RRE's Eclipse Clutch Pedal Effort and Throw Out Bearing Pressure ) and I'm worried that 2600 PP applies too much pressure on the thrust bearings causing them to wear and fail prematurely. This is why I decided to go with the 2100 PP instead.

I just wanted to know what are your thoughts on this and do you feel that the 7-bolt thrust bearings can handle the 2600 PP.

I'm asking because I've already had one freshly built motor walk one me and after it got rebuilt (again) I kept the 2600 and checked the crank play after a few months and the end to end play of the crank is 0.009" which is right at the service limit.

Again, your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

PS: Feel free to move this post to a new thread to keep this one clean.

 

[99gst_racer]

Hey Paul, can I ask you a few questions about your clutch setup.

Where did you order your ClutchNet disk from? Was is from ClutchNet directly?
Yeah, I ordered it directly from them. Pretty nice people on the phone.

My question is regarding the 6 pad sprung disk you are going with. I was considering that disk over the full face disk but I'm worried about harsh engagement. My car is a DD so I need the engagement to be smooth. Can you provide some feedback on the 6 pad disk once you've installed it please? If you could append your review to my thread that would be super.

I've already driven on the set-up that I'm switching to. I had the pleasure of driving my buddy's car (project_tsi). It was a low 11-second car running the ACT 2600 PP and Clutchnet 6-puck, sprung hub disk. Engagement was reasonably smooth, and pedal feel/pressure never faded after consecutive dragstrip passes. Not to mention it's virtually impossible to toss a hub spring with this disk.

The disk should show up today, so I'll get it back in and get it broken in with a quickness.

Also, I had my motor build a while ago and I had it walk about 6 months after I dropped it in with the ACT 2600. I've been reading RRE's pedal pressure info page (found here: RRE's Eclipse Clutch Pedal Effort and Throw Out Bearing Pressure ) and I'm worried that 2600 PP applies too much pressure on the thrust bearings causing them to wear and fail prematurely. This is why I decided to go with the 2100 PP instead.

I'd take any information from that chart with a grain of salt. I'm not saying it's wrong, but it was written back when a 16G was "the sh!t" and 20G's where for race cars. Alot has since changed, and many people actually require the clamping force of 2600 (and larger) pressure plates. I don't doubt a slight acceleration in thrust wear, but I rarely see real world instances where there was failure due to pressure plate induced thrust bearing wear.

The 2100 PP is also a great piece. I put down 350 ft/lbs of torque on one with a street disk and never had issues. Then again, I was FWD back then.

I just wanted to know what are your thoughts on this and do you feel that the 7-bolt thrust bearings can handle the 2600 PP.

I'm asking because I've already had one freshly built motor walk one me and after it got rebuilt (again) I kept the 2600 and checked the crank play after a few months and the end to end play of the crank is 0.09" which is right at the service limit.

A crankwalked engine will eventually walk again after being rebuilt. You were better off sourcing out a different block to rebuild. Chances are, your thrust play will continue to grow no matter which clutch you're using. In this case, a heavier pressure plate will only speed up the process.

But if you're putting down less than 350 ft/lbs of torque, then you'd probably be fine using the 2100 PP anyway.