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Clutch recommendation for an underpowered race car?

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99gst_racer

Moderator
12,009
1,695
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
I'm in the process of building a lightweight drag race car. It will be powered by the almighty 14B, as I will be chasing the "no n2o" 14b record.

I find myself a bit lost in a few aspects of this build, as I've never built a lightweight car before - let alone an underpowered lightweight car. I plan to put this car in the 10's and at little over 120 mph.

I have at my disposal an ACT 2100 and 2600 pressure plate. I also have a few full-faced street disk's. I'm assuming that I'll want the larger pressure plate, and probably a sprung-hub ceramic padded 6-puck disk. I'm posting this looking for input. Please don't just offer opinions, but moreover advice backed by data and/or experience.

Let me know what you think and why.

Thanks in advance,
-Paul-
 
Paul, I would use the 2600 with a South Bend Clutch Kevlar disk -- I know you have seen me post about it in the past.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mitsubishi/Eclipse-Talon_95-99/South_Bend/Clutch/Clutch_Disks

I am still wary of using a 6-puck because of the launching; if you were roadracing, I would be all for one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151299518&postcount=3
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151177125&postcount=3
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151169780&postcount=6
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151112660&postcount=2

I think I "raved" about this disk a few times now... :thumb:

Otherwise, I would do a quartermaster.
 
Interesting recommendation, Tim. In my past experience, I've always considered kevlar lined disk's to be for street use only. The one's I've seen do not hold up well to continuous track use and begin to loose their holding power when subjected to constant heating, slipping, launching, and overall abuse.

But, if it works, then it works. And with your car making 300 WHP more than my 1G will be; if it holds for you, it should also hold for me. :)

I noticed that the SBC kevlar disk has four large springs in the hub. I wonder if this would pose a problem with engagement when used with an old style ACT pressure pate like mine?

What about their feramic disk? Do you have any experience with it? It looks to be more "forgiving" to consistent abuse and also has six smaller springs, so it looks like it would definitely work with my pressure plate. Thoughts?
 
I had no problems using the kevlar disk with an old style 2600 pressure plate. The reason I went with the kevlar was because I previously had a clutchnet sprung 6-puck that destroyed my transmissions like an all-you-can-eat chinese buffet. It regularly would strip the teeth off of 1st/2nd/3rd gears.

If you go with the feramic, you will also likely get less life out of the disk, and will also need to replace the friction plate on your flywheel more regularly if using a fidanza, or if you use an ACT, it would mean shredding the friction surface. I would reccomend the fidanza over the ACT if you use the feramic disk for ease of replacement of the friction surface, and less time wasted resurfacing a stepped flywheel.
 
Ignore that part -- it can be used in all 4G63T applications (1G/2G)
 
I just ordered this disc in hopes it will stay in one piece. I have been through 2 Comp Clutch disc's where the spring's broke. So for a quick fix I will try it with a 2700# CC pressure plate. Yes I have both the dowels in place.
 
It will need a little break-in time, and you will likely have to do a clutch pedal adjustment once it is fully bedded. Beware, and bring tools along for the ride so you don't get stuck.

Be careful also using a used pressure plate with a new disk, you should make sure that the disk is completely flat, without any deep spots and no fractures. I would really reccomend using a new 2600 PP and a new TOB.
 
What about running the OEM disc. I cant remember what brand it is, but my mechanic has ran it with act PP for a long time with good results. He even told me a lot of guys on the dsmlink forums are running them and making 11 sec passes. My brother has ran one for the last 2 years and his clutch is still in great shape, but he does baby the tranny. Anyways I think they are only like $40.
 
Full-faced street disks don't handle well when constantly exposed to heat and extreme abuse. Many people with street disks run their car at the track every now and then, but my car will be ran ONLY at the track.. The only driving this car will see will be abusive, so I can't see how a street disk could benefit me in any way.
 
So if I let the clutch cool down between runs and dont abuse it bad, the street disc would be ok. I'm getting a very lightly used act 2600 and I'm not sure if I should run the act disc or another one. The disc is still within spec but Ive heard of the center springs failing. Im only running a 16g what disc should I go with?
 
It will need a little break-in time, and you will likely have to do a clutch pedal adjustment once it is fully bedded. Beware, and bring tools along for the ride so you don't get stuck.

What do you mean by this? What happens before and after bed in? Will the pedal catch a little higher after bed in cause it catches on the floor right now. If it does not get better I will need another PP.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151146467-post8.html

Check this link -- it sounds like you need to thread the rod towards the firewall a few threads.

Come on bro this aint my first rodeo. To make it clear, I have a new pedal, slave cyl, and a master with no leaks, extended slave rod, steelbraided line, new shimed pivotball, and the master is threaded all the way out. For the most part it engauges at the midpoint but drags all the way at the bottom. I only have to put the pedal down half way and it will slip no problem. It's just really dragging even with my foot to the floor. It's got to be the pp not working well with the disc. My syncros are working hard right now, it will sometimes creep in first if I don't hold the brakes on.
 
Perhaps you could throw GRNDSM a quick PM. ;) (Or ask him to join in on the conversation.)
 
Come on bro this aint my first rodeo. To make it clear, I have a new pedal, slave cyl, and a master with no leaks, extended slave rod, steelbraided line, new shimed pivotball, and the master is threaded all the way out. For the most part it engauges at the midpoint but drags all the way at the bottom. I only have to put the pedal down half way and it will slip no problem. It's just really dragging even with my foot to the floor. It's got to be the pp not working well with the disc. My syncros are working hard right now, it will sometimes creep in first if I don't hold the brakes on.

my bad, just was giving the first thing to check. After that, then it looks like either hydraulics or a pressure plate issue.
 
I would look into the Fidanza 3.2 Performance clutch. Its a four puck Kevlar, sprung disc that drive like a stock clutch, and can take repeated launches. Check out the video that they have on there homepage.. I've been doing this for a while and I learned allot from the video. I want to try there twin disc clutch. :thumb:

Fidanza Flywheel & Performance Parts
 
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