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RipperXX

20+ Year Contributor
5,790
165
Feb 23, 2003
Royston, Georgia
Has anyone used these guys? They look pretty good, and I don't have the money to have TRE or shep rebuild it. And these guys seem to be very affordable. I'm looking to have them just do the basic rebuild which comes with a few minor upgrades.

http://www.jackstransmissions.com
For $799 I don't see how I can lose. DSMLink estimates my engine at 310hp I am pretty sure it's not actauly anywhere near that at the wheels. But it's not even tuned. Anyway I am trying to get 380whp out of an E3. I dont know how long a basicly stock tranny can stand that. But I don't PLAN on doing a whole lot of hard launches. Pretty much as soon as I can get a near flat 12 sec pass down the 1/4 mile I wont do any track racing. And dont see myself doing any real hard launches. Doesn't mean I wont though LOL.

I would get it rebuilt with more heavy duty stuff but I dont have the cash right now with a kid on the way.


So again has anyone used these guys?
 
Stock transmissions have held over 450whp (awd). So if there is nothing wrong with your current transmission save your money for the baby.
 
Not to mention that the $799 rebuild really won't make your transmission any stronger - it focuses mostly on restoring the synchros, hubs, sleeves, and bearings to original (or a little bit better) condition. The $1299 rebuild with the 4-spider center diff is where you start getting into reliability upgrades.
 
no no you misunderstand I DO need a rebuild it grinds any time I dont speed shift it hard. And it's damn near impossible to down shift from 5th to 4th without it somewhat grinding. And since it needs a new clutch anyway I got a ACT 2600 and XACT flywheel a while back while I was in Iraq. So I figure since I have to pull it rebuild it at the same time.



BTW how do you tell if you have a new or old pressure plate and disk? Because I know you can't use one or the other together.
 
I run a Jack Transmission. I got the 4 spider diff, double syncro's etc. Best shifting tranny i've ever owned.. I know him personally and trust me he knows his stuff.. I've done 6k studderbox launches and it keep son taking them like a champ. Lots of us Colorado guys run his tranny with no problems. Some are deep in the 11s and high 10s on them..
 
BTW how do you tell if you have a new or old pressure plate and disk? Because I know you can't use one or the other together.

Whad do you mean? I have swapped out only my disk and kept my pressureplate w/ 50K on it before. . . It did just fine. Both pieces were a stock replacement. I've Swappe dout two performance disks w/ out needng to swap my performance pressureplate. . .:confused:

RipperXX, I'd get the $1300 rebuild personally. Why not save more and do it good since you want to knock on the door to 400hp? You just may want more a little later:thumb: . But I do understand. It's a BIG jump in price, no matter how cheap the upgraded tranny is compared to other performance tranny shops.
 
Jack has a VERY good reputation here in CO. Most use his trannies with no problems whatsoever. I am actually running an AWD with welded center diff rebuilt by him right now and not a problem.
Mike
 
Jack is a member of the dsmlink forums. I have never personally had work done by him, but, i have had questions for him. He def. knows what hes talking about and responded to me quickly and with good helpful advice. Give him a try! check out his website too!
 
Well with a response like this from you guys I will buy with confidence and high hopes!. If I can come up with the cash for the $1300 dollar one in time I will go that route, other wise I will have to go with the basic rebuild.

Cause I still have a good bit of stuff to buy. Tranny problems are a real PITA though. We will see.
 
BTW how do you tell if you have a new or old pressure plate and disk?

There is a difference, My 7 bolt GST pressure plate didn't fit my 6 bolt GST flywheel. BUT, I did get it to work once I took a angle grinder with a flap wheel to the round edges of the raised portion. Red line.
 

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Im talking about the ACT products, suposedly the new PP and old clutch disk have a problem where the spings in the clutch disk rub the PP even when it's disengaged
 
Umm.. Ok here is the deal with PP's. You need to make sure the surface is still flat. If it isn't see how much to resurface it. If it's going to cost over $100 then look at getting a new one. If it's flat just take an abrasive disk to it to rough it up to bed in the new disk. Also need to do the same for your flywheel.

As far as looking at your disk. You need an accurate depth gauge to see how much material is left before you get to the rivits. Check it against what it would be new. Check every rivet hole as some can be worn more than others due to chatter. If you have more than 50% left then don't worry to much about it. Under 50% just spend the $100 and get a new disk. Kept you from pulling it apart not to far down the road.

If you are retarted like myself and are looking to run 10,000+ RPMs then it's also a very good idea to take your flywheel and pressure plate down to a good machine shop that can balance them. ACT flywheels are not balanced very well. For most running under 8.5K RPMS you shouldn't really have to much to worry about. The slight imbalance probably won't affect you all that much.
 
Now your flywheel is unbalanced some what.

I checked the balance of it before I put it on and It was perfect yet. And once I got the car running it doesn't vibrate or anything all the way up to 7500 rpm.

I dont recommend anybody doing this unless your in a pinch like I was. But I had the equipment to check the balance before I put it on the motor.
 
Im talking about the ACT products, suposedly the new PP and old clutch disk have a problem where the spings in the clutch disk rub the PP even when it's disengaged

The difference is in the "fingers" or spring plates. One of them are straight and the other have a slight bend in them. There is a thread on here with pictures but I can't seem to find it right now.
 
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