Master Cylinder Help

[4G63dsmpwr]

I installed a new master cylinder when I put my ACT 2600 in about 8 months ago. I also installed a new slave cylinder. I got my parts from AutoZone, I thought that it'd be fine. Last night there was no pedal pressure, checked the slave - fine, however the master was leaking at the firewall pretty bad (it's leaking right from the black accordian-like covering inside the car). So is that just a defect or is there a specific type of master I should buy and is AutoZone stuff just crap? I'm ordering tomorrow morning so your help would be appreciated. Erick

 

[boostle]

Sounds like a defective part or poor assembly. Return it and get OEM parts man.

 

[OMN_DSM]

Check out partznet.com they have the best prices around on OEM stuff, and I think it is free shipping if it is over $50. Good luck!

Mike

 

[AWDspoOLiN]

i'm sure the oem rebuild kit is cheaper than any autozone replacement parts. i paid less than 10 bucks and it took less than ten minutes for the job.

 

[OMN_DSM]

Originally posted by AWDspoOLiN
i'm sure the oem rebuild kit is cheaper than any autozone replacement parts. i paid less than 10 bucks and it took less than ten minutes for the job.

Never get a rebuild kit for your master cylinder. They are made out of aluminuim and scare very easy and will leak even with a rebuild kit. Just buy one off partznet.com and you should be alright.

Mike

 

[4G63dsmpwr]

I can't get this f'n cotter pin out (the one near the pedal), is there any tricks or anything I can do to make removing this pin easier? Anything I can remove? I tried for 2 hours to get this thing out in the 20 degree weather and I still didn't get it out. Any help you guys can offer would be appreciated. Erick

 

[OMN_DSM]

Don't take the cotter pin out. Take a 12mm wrench and loosen the nut that locks the adjustment rod in place, and then slightly press the clutch in and unscrew the adjustment rod with your fingers. Good luck!

Mike

 

[4G63dsmpwr]

Thanks! I'm in school right now but when I get home I'm going to try to get that by just unscrewing the 12mm until it comes out. After that its just two bolts in the engine bay? And when do I remove all the fluid out of it? Any other problems I might run into - any info you have? Alright again - THANKS for the help. Erick

 

[OMN_DSM]

The 12mm nut that you will loosen is just to lock the master cylinder plunger rod to the C-bracket, so you will only need to loosen it. After you loosen it the rod is pretty hard to turn with just your fingers, but if you press the clutch pedal in a little bit it is very easy by hand. If it is still to tight you will have to squeeze a pair of pliers up there and turn it.

It is best to drain the clutch fluid out the slave cylinder first so you don't drip it all over your fire wall. Before you take the two mounting bolts off take the line out that goes to the slave cylinder, it is a lot harder when the thing is wobbling all over. Good luck!

Mike

 

[AWDspoOLiN]

Originally posted by OMN_DSM


Never get a rebuild kit for your master cylinder. They are made out of aluminuim and scare very easy and will leak even with a rebuild kit. Just buy one off partznet.com and you should be alright.

Mike

is it different for 1g and 2g? the rebuild kit is made by mitsubishi and rre sold it to me and asked me why i would want to buy a new master cylinder. the parts from the rebuild are the same as the parts that came out of the cylinder... same with the slave. the only wear i noticed were on the rubber plungers. both my cylinders are leak free after rebuilding them.

 

[OMN_DSM]

There is a chance you will be OK when rebuilding them. I just feel, why risk wasting the money and I feel much more comfortable knowing I have a brand new unit in there.

Mike

 

[AWDspoOLiN]

you got me all paranoid about my rebuilding when i heard some squeaking down by the pedal assemblies. turns out a little water got between my clutch pedal and pedal set