First of all, I searched for about an hour to find an answer to my problem, and I found bits and pieces, but not really what I'm looking for.
I bought a 96 GST back in march with 38k miles on it. It was running fine, no problems. Around May, my clutch pedal started squeaking. It got worse, until I finally had the the bushing in the clutch pedal replaced about 2 weeks ago. When I picked up my car, the pedal was very tight to the top, there was no play at all. Over the course of 2 weeks, the pedal "loosened" and there was probably the right amount of play in it. Yesterday though, my clutch started slipping in 4th gear when i downshifted going up a hill.
I took it back to the garage, and I'm assuming they adjusted the master cylinder (based on what I read) all the way out because the mechanic said he couldn't adjust it anymore than he did. The pedal disengages the clutch now about halfway down. It is still slipping in third and fourth gears when my turbo kicks in.
The clutch feels really strong in first and second gear. The mechanic said he put the e-brake on and dragged the back wheels in first gear.
Could this be anything other than a worn out clutch? I read a post about oil being slung onto the clutch because "the output shaft to the transfer case seal in the bell housing went bad". It only has less than 50k miles on it!
ANY IDEAS!?
Also, if a new clutch is in order, should I get factory stock? Or something else? My mechanic told me a new clutch would be $600 to $800. Help a newbie out! Thanks.
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Also, if a new clutch is in order, should I get factory stock? Or something else? My mechanic told me a new clutch would be $600 to $800. Help a newbie out! Thanks.
$600~$800? Screw that.. Buy a decent aftermarket clutch and do the swap yourself. He's quoting you labor from the book which pays 7+ hours for a trans R&R.
I paid $150 for my current clutch, which is a dual ceramic sprung disk and a 2600lb. P/P, from a local clutch shop in Jacksonville. 43k later and it still grabs like a mother!
You may want to check the clutch free-play and engagement points again. However I wouldn't discount fluid getting on it from your symptoms. Usually though, a clutch will start to show slippage at the top when the motor is making it's peak power.
I noticed within the last month or so that a new drop or two of oil will be on my driveway each day. I have a leaky-but-not-leaky-enough-to-change valve cover gasket, and the mechanic mentioned above told me that my valve seals need to be replaced when I get a new timing belt around 60k.
Does the clutch get "spongy" after driving for a while?
maybe try adjusting it down even further, then take it out put it in 5th gear @ 45-50mph and hold the petal to the floor to see if it still slips.
and he probably meant cam shaft seals when you do the timing belt.
So I got my clutch replaced...$800 later for STOCK. Ya, I know I overpaid, but I need my car, and I can't do it myself. Mechanics make their living off people like me...
Anyways, the mechanic told me he was taking it out for a test drive afterwards, and on the way back, the car started sputtering like before in 4th gear. He said when he got back to the shop, he checked it out, and noticed my fuel injectors had gone bad. Guess that expensive premium gas that I may not have used since Katrina hurt...
Long story short, I have a new clutch, and will have new injectors tomorrow night for a hell of a lot of money. He said my clutch was really thin, and looked like it had slipped a bunch of times, but how do I know he's not just saying that.
He said my clutch was really thin, and looked like it had slipped a bunch of times, but how do I know he's not just saying that.
Always ask for the old parts! Shady mechanics are a dime a dozen, and there are plenty that are simply "parts changers" versus, honest to goodness Techs. They can smell the automotively illiterate a mile away.
