Fidanza Flywheel Questions

avw0516 · 09-19-2005, 06:45 PM

Alright, before you start bashing me for not searching, I did. I already know all of the benefits and disadvantages of this flywheel as far as driveability. I just have a few questions that remained unclear to me. First off, the flywheel bolts. I have a 1990 tsi awd, from what I have read some people are fine with the stock bolts (that go into the crank) and others have problems. I was wondering if this is because of the year/model or what? Would I need to buy the $45 kit from forced performance or would I be fine using the stock bolts? Also I have read in a couple places that if you let the rpm's drop alot (ex: rev) it is much more likely to stall because the ecu isn't responding fast enough. Has anyone else heard of this problem? If I end up getting this flywheel will it present any issues with the act2600 street disc? Basically all I want to know is what will I need to put in a Fidanza flywheel properly and have my car run right. Thanks alot for the help guys.
-Andrew

1gfromND · 09-19-2005, 08:07 PM

Not that it has any problems but I dont think you care what it will do after you see and feel the difference from the stock anchor.

I ran it on my 92 awd with no problems stalling was never a issue. Along with the bolts they presented no problem I used my stockers with some good loc-tite and that was that it worked great.

92awddsm · 09-19-2005, 08:23 PM

Why dont you just go with an act flywheel and eliminate any of these issues you seem to be concerned with? I am getting ready to install a fidanza but I have my own purposes for it. First, my car might see street use about once every couple of weeks but mostly track time. Second, I tend to believe that the lighter flywheel would not be as harsh on drivetrain parts when launched from a 6k rpm stutter box. Now, if it was mostly a street driven vehicle, I would go with the steel flywheel so I wouldnt have to worry about buying the flywheel install kit and no worries about stalling.

And also remember, you have a 50/50 chance of having problems with the stock bolts. If you must run the fidanza, dont skimp. Its easier to go ahead and spend the $45 now for the install kit than it is to redo it later but still end up spending the $45 plus possibly a bell housing and possibly another flywheel.

MNGSX · 09-19-2005, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avw0516

Alright, before you start bashing me for not searching, I did. I already know all of the benefits and disadvantages of this flywheel as far as driveability. I just have a few questions that remained unclear to me. First off, the flywheel bolts. I have a 1990 tsi awd, from what I have read some people are fine with the stock bolts (that go into the crank) and others have problems. I was wondering if this is because of the year/model or what? Would I need to buy the $45 kit from forced performance or would I be fine using the stock bolts? Also I have read in a couple places that if you let the rpm's drop alot (ex: rev) it is much more likely to stall because the ecu isn't responding fast enough. Has anyone else heard of this problem? If I end up getting this flywheel will it present any issues with the act2600 street disc? Basically all I want to know is what will I need to put in a Fidanza flywheel properly and have my car run right. Thanks alot for the help guys.
-Andrew

I prefer the SSG it is a better alloy and better constuction...

I'm sure that is who makes these for SBR... These are closser to fidanzas weight but SSG's alloy... They are 8lbs.. My original SSG is like 4.75lb

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1967&

Oh and with the SPEC stage 3 I ment the stage 3 plus full face feramic...

http://www.specclutch.com/csproducti...uct=stage3plus

SPEC also has flywheels.

This is what I run... Mcleod Sintered Iron

As for bolts get the ARP flywheel bolt kit for a supra 6 cylinder.. Just the right dimensions.... Plus tough as nails...

On a stock ECU an abrubt off throttle combined with a quick full clutch disengagement can stall... Fade the clutch out instead of going right to coasting from WOT operating the clutch like a switch... I also rev match down shifting... Not aggressive engine braking but keeping the RPMS in a 1k to 2k range when slowing down from normal non aggressive driving or slowing the RPM decell from higher rpms via the clutch...

Letting off from a lower rpm abrubtly wont do it... 7k WOT to foot out will... Just let the clutch back out to restart if it happens rolling your first day or so.. You can learn to avoid it on a stock ECU after a little while. I am at 4.75lbs flywheel.... On the pro-efi it could keep it running fine going from 8k to clutch floored and throttle at zero in the blink of an eye.... When I get AEM it wont be an issue at all.. It is'nt really now because I compensate for it manually.