river
15+ Year Contributor
- 282
- 0
- Jun 9, 2004
-
Anchorage,
Alaska
ok, my main question here is about shimming the pivot ball, but i will get there in time.
i have a 91 GSX, shepard tranny, ACT 2600 pressure plate/street disc, SS clutch line, and thats it as far as the drivetrain in relation to my post right now.
my car had been having issues with going into gear properly, so initially i figured it was an adjustment problem. i adjusted the clutch and the car was fine for a few days, then one day it got bad again. so i read up on it and figured the next easiest/cheapest thing to do was to pull out the clutch pedal assembly and have it welded, sure enough...TONS of play in that thing. put it back in the car all welded up and adjusted it again and that took care of the problem, or so i thought. i drove the car for a few weeks and it was great, no problems. then, one day going to work i took the car out of gear at a stop light and when i tried to go back in to gear it wouldnt go in easily. i depressed the clutch hard and tried to put it in gear and it wanted to start moving the car as i was trying to push it into gear, as if it was starting to disengage the clutch...but not fully. so i tried starting it in gear with the clutch depressed and it wanted to move the car foreward with every rotation of the motor. called the tow truck and had it taken to the shop.
now, the fun begins. we take the tranny out only to find a completely shredded ACT TOB, cheap plastic. we put in a good Mitsu OEM steel TOB thinking that was the problem, put it all back together, bled it and readjusted it....same thing. clutch not fully disengaging. so, we take it back apart to check the disc again and make sure its just not burned down too much, surface the flywheel and buy a new disc because the old one was out of check. put it back together, still the same thing, clutch not fully disengaging when depressed. time for a new master and slave cylinder, no luck. so now i am at the point of putting in a new clutch fork and pivot ball, we will see what happens. what else beyond all of this could be a/the problem?
what i am wondering is, if i put in a new pivot ball, and a new clutch fork, is it suggested that i still shim the new pivot ball? i thought that the reason for shimming would be old worn parts, but i may be wrong. the point im at is, putting the pivot ball and new fork in, and if that still doesnt fix it...go on to the longer slave rod and see if that helps. but is there a better principal behind one or the other, should i just shim the new ball, or leave the new ball alone and try it, then if no avail...go to a longer slave rod and if the rod doesnt work, then shim the ball and use the longer rod? where would you guys go in this situation?
i have a 91 GSX, shepard tranny, ACT 2600 pressure plate/street disc, SS clutch line, and thats it as far as the drivetrain in relation to my post right now.
my car had been having issues with going into gear properly, so initially i figured it was an adjustment problem. i adjusted the clutch and the car was fine for a few days, then one day it got bad again. so i read up on it and figured the next easiest/cheapest thing to do was to pull out the clutch pedal assembly and have it welded, sure enough...TONS of play in that thing. put it back in the car all welded up and adjusted it again and that took care of the problem, or so i thought. i drove the car for a few weeks and it was great, no problems. then, one day going to work i took the car out of gear at a stop light and when i tried to go back in to gear it wouldnt go in easily. i depressed the clutch hard and tried to put it in gear and it wanted to start moving the car as i was trying to push it into gear, as if it was starting to disengage the clutch...but not fully. so i tried starting it in gear with the clutch depressed and it wanted to move the car foreward with every rotation of the motor. called the tow truck and had it taken to the shop.
now, the fun begins. we take the tranny out only to find a completely shredded ACT TOB, cheap plastic. we put in a good Mitsu OEM steel TOB thinking that was the problem, put it all back together, bled it and readjusted it....same thing. clutch not fully disengaging. so, we take it back apart to check the disc again and make sure its just not burned down too much, surface the flywheel and buy a new disc because the old one was out of check. put it back together, still the same thing, clutch not fully disengaging when depressed. time for a new master and slave cylinder, no luck. so now i am at the point of putting in a new clutch fork and pivot ball, we will see what happens. what else beyond all of this could be a/the problem?
what i am wondering is, if i put in a new pivot ball, and a new clutch fork, is it suggested that i still shim the new pivot ball? i thought that the reason for shimming would be old worn parts, but i may be wrong. the point im at is, putting the pivot ball and new fork in, and if that still doesnt fix it...go on to the longer slave rod and see if that helps. but is there a better principal behind one or the other, should i just shim the new ball, or leave the new ball alone and try it, then if no avail...go to a longer slave rod and if the rod doesnt work, then shim the ball and use the longer rod? where would you guys go in this situation?
I got the complete assembly set pedal/rod, lever, and bushings, so the price was about the same give or take 10 bucks. Now I can sleep at night 
