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Aluminum driveshaft ? {merged 11-8] drive shaft shafts

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turbo90gsx

15+ Year Contributor
654
3
Feb 12, 2004
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Well, took my drive shaft to a local clutch/driveline repairer because I though just the carier bearings were gone, turns out my uv's are twisted and my lobro or whatever joint needs to be rebuilt :barf: . He said it was around 750 for a complete overhaul :barf: of the shaft. But now that I think about it, I am interested in purchasing aluminum or maybe a carbon fiber shaft. I know there is shops online that sell them because I remember looking at performance halve shafts on one of the sites, but I just can't remember the name. If you know of a shop that has one of these for a reasonable amount of money, please send me a link to the web site. I will need to know later tonight or early morning, because I am in desperate need to get my car back on the road as SOON AS POSIABLE! If I can't find one I will be forced, by my parents, to have the stocker rebuilt. If you have any comments or suggestions on what I should do, please inform me. Thanks
 
LOL!!! 750??? gezus you can buy a brand new 1 piece drive shaft for 250$

Check the parts listnings of this very site.
 
Good god, what the HELL is he going to do to the driveshaft that could possibly cost $750?

I think you need to do some shop shopping.

I don't know if a DSM _could_ twist a U-joint coupling, nor its yokes. I think you'd have to be doing burnouts against a wall, and even then something else would break first.
 
PST Makes driveshafts. Carbon fiber = $$$ so be warned.
 
Like most of those sites say the car will vibrate as you start to move faster. The angles for the U-joints will be wrong and it wont last long.

What doesnt make sense to me is why Mitsu didnt put a one piece shaft in the car in the first place. The pumpkin doesnt move like a live axle would so they could have just set the pinion angle right and put a one piece shaft in it. Oh well.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
boostedinaz said:
Like most of those sites say the car will vibrate as you start to move faster. The angles for the U-joints will be wrong and it wont last long.

What doesnt make sense to me is why Mitsu didnt put a one piece shaft in the car in the first place. The pumpkin doesnt move like a live axle would so they could have just set the pinion angle right and put a one piece shaft in it. Oh well.

Michael
:talon: :laser:

It's too long and offset, you will end up having severe lash and vibration.

There's an archived thread on NABR that discusses this, I believe.
 
leet said:
It's too long and offset, you will end up having severe lash and vibration.

There's an archived thread on NABR that discusses this, I believe.


I highly doubt that the length will play a factor as long as it is balanced well. If you have ever looked at an older long bed Chevy truck they have really long drive shafts that are one piece. Camaro's and and B body cars also have a lenghthy drive shaft. i am guessig that the offset you are talking about is side to side and not up and down, becasue in my scenario I did away with the up and down offset. Either way I would be interested in seeing this article. Do you have a direct link?? If not I can search it.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
well.. I know the driveshaft shop, they do not make it a one piece. but it does get rid of one section. So instead of having 3, it makes it 2. Reason being was the angle exc
 
badboyr66 said:
well.. I know the driveshaft shop, they do not make it a one piece. but it does get rid of one section. So instead of having 3, it makes it 2. Reason being was the angle exc

Yes, all the driveshafts are 2pc. If you can find that article link it, it has a wealth of information about this!
 
I was wondering if anyone knew offhand what cars/trucks came with aluminum driveshafts from the factory..I'd maybe like to go scour the junkyards for one and possibley try and see if a driveshaft shop would be able to mate it up as a 1 piece..My reasoning comes with the cost of new driveshaft parts to rebuild everything including u-joints,carrier bearings along with the added benefits of reduced rotating mass..If it will cost me around 300-350 to do everything then maybe I'll make it work..This is including the cost of a used alum driveshaft/labor..Since welding u joints on is out of the question,would they have to machine a u joint on each end of the driveshaft?..Does anyone else have anything to add as in tips/advice?..Thanks
chris
 
1998 and up chevy trucks, 98 and up ls1's, ford mustang cobras, 99 and up ford F150's, that is all I can think of for now. :(
 
Thanks..I appreciate it..It seems like ford likes to incorporate them into their design..
 
The Driveshaft shop makes them Chris(yes I am a dealer) And if I had a donor shaft I could probably have one made locally. The biggest issue will be the ends. Trying to use a driveshaft from one of the above vehicals will be tough do to their diameter. And isn't a timing belt more important these days?

Tim
 
Yeah you can get an aluminum driveshaft from driveshaftshop that replaces the first two stock peices in the 3 peice system. They are about $800 though. heh

I really doubt you will be able to take a shaft off of a completely different vehicle and make it work on yours at a reasonable cost.
 
Zex4g63 said:
The Driveshaft shop makes them Chris(yes I am a dealer) And if I had a donor shaft I could probably have one made locally. The biggest issue will be the ends. Trying to use a driveshaft from one of the above vehicals will be tough do to their diameter. And isn't a timing belt more important these days?

Tim

I didn't know you sold them..Yeah,the t belt is getting pretty bad..I was just doing some research on something I thought was a good idea..1 more week and the neighborhood goes the HELL!.. :tease:
 
Well I did this first with my 3000gt VR4 3 years and since did it to my Talon with sucsess. All you have to do is take that front two pices and have a drive shaft shop cut at the weld before the carrier bearing and before the U joint. The shop I went to had a calculator the used the length and Hp to figure the diameter and tickness of the pipe. I know it is not aluminum but I saved weight and at a fraction of the cost ($100). This is very simple operation. I try going with aluminum but the proble is that you can not weld steel to aluminum. I think it weighed about 15-17lbs. I can't say rpm difference because I change the aluminum filywheeel, custom driveshaft and Rota slipstream wheels all at the same time.
 
Ok, i am going to school at Wyotech and i am in Chassis Fabrication and high performance engines class right now.. I was wondering if anyone knows the specifications on a aluminum driveshaft. I was thinking if i can get it done cheap enough i may make the 2nd piece (last one in the 2 piece) aluminum too.

Anyone have any other suggestions on what i could make in class, im planning on going to school for 16hrs straight, so i should have time.
 
If they have a CNC lathe and you or the school has the money make the shaft out of titanium. A but expensive, ok really expensive but way better than aluminum. Your particaly in a machine shop make whatever you want. Goodluck and have fun :)
 
Here's a link to the first of 2 driveshafts>>> http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item9507.ctlg.
For the second driveshaft I would say use same stuff they did, but you will have to take the dimensions off yours, and make a flange. Congrats on getting into Wyotech, Im starting in 2 weeks at UTI.

Dustin
 
I second what Shane said...well except for the ordering them part, because I don't need it, and it would just add weight...well m rambling, now to the point. Measure twice cut once.

Dustin
 
Yea, Titanium is out of the question. i wish i could but thats just way to expensive. Its going to be a tough but fun project. I know i can do it with a little help from one of my instructors that has built aluminum drivehafts before.
Im still trying to figure out what else i can make when i get this done.

fourreGsixty3- what classes are you taking at UTI?
 
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