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Fox1486

20+ Year Contributor
131
4
Jul 10, 2004
Rochester, New York
Okay, I think I'm making the right decision here. I'm FINALLY makin the jump from the 420a to the 4g63!! (Thank you, Thank you please hold the applause ) Anyway, here are some problems with the car. Here are the details.

-1995 GS-T
-109K miles
All Stock except:
-K&N Style Filter Cone
-3" exhaust piping from the downpipe to the catalytic converter (from the cat back is stock b/c he didn't want to get crankwalk???)
-1g BOV
-Manual Boost Controller
-Coilovers with KYB struts
-Used Tranny with:
-Fidanza??? 7lbs lightweight flywheel
-Some kind of performance clutch BUT NOT AN ACT!!!!

Here is the problems. Test driving it I stalled 3 times because for some reason the idle throttle is set too low. This happened when he got the used tranny put in with the aftermarket flywheel and clutch. He said he didn't want the ACT clutch because of crankwalk??? Also the Speed Sensor Housing is cracked so the speedometer doesnt work right now. Also I'm pretty sure he told me that the compression across all 4 cylinders was 72 or 76 I can't remember. I'm totally a newbie when it comes to the 4g63 engine, could someone help answer these questions:

-Is the lightweight flywheel the reason the car drops idle and stalls??
-Will that flywheel hurt the tranny and all being so light??
-Could someone please explain crankwalk to me and how it is caused so I can avoid it??
-How much is it to replace the speed sensor housing or fix the speedo problem??
-What is good compression for these engines??

I would appreciate any help I can get. Like I said I'm very new to this turbo model and this engine. Thanx

-Fox
 
Here is a good page on how to do compression tests and toward the bottom is all the numbers. http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm As for the other questions, I don't know anything about lighter flywheels sorry, and the crankwalk question can easily be answered by searching a little. Now I usually don't tell people to search but its too much to type and I'm no expert. Good luck.
 
Im not a wiseman, but it probly stalled because compression should be around 180. When I melted my piston and had 15 (yes just 15) in the first cylinder and 150 in the second it would stall on me, that is if I could keep it running long enough. If it has that much problems my suggestion is not buying it.
-Chad :dsm:
 
Heres a little update. I just spoke with this guy again about the car. He said the compression across all 4 cylinders was 176 not 76 (I'm suck an idiot :p ) He's got a Fidanza aluminum flywheel that says it was 9 lbs, but on the shipping package it said it was 7 lbs. He put an Exedy Clutch in it. He said the ad for it stated it was just 10-20 lbs. firmer than OEM, and that came with a new pressure plate also. He thinks that the idle problem is Fast Idle Air Valve Blockoff, which he read up on vfaq.com . He also has different IC pipping from the turbo to the IC. I think maybe if i just change the BISS (Base Idle Speed Screw) adjustment on the throttle body, the car will idle higher or where its suppost to be and i'll be all set. Anyone have suggestions if i should get the car with these problems?? Sounds like an easy fix i think??
 
the only bad thing fox is that the guy sounds like he knows as little about c-walk and proper modding as you do.

what does it idle at? 700 or so? if so it is fine. Fidanzas cause satalling until you get used to them.

Excedy clutches would not be my first choice for a clutch that would not press too much on hte flywheel... hopefully it is not a 3 puck... those are also a pain to drive on the street.

OH and the ecu will compensate for the BISS adjustment after a day or two... FIAV should make it idle HIGH not low.

Biggest problem... used tranny and cracked speedsensor housing...

someone abused that car enough to break the oem tranny.


(cat back probably transfered to their other dsm... prevent c-walk ROFL )
 
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