Spec stage 3 clutch

[2GturboTALON]

Who has a Spec stage 2 or higher clutch? Are u happy with it? Will any lightweight flywheel work with it? how long is break in period for a stage 3?

 

[baxsom]

Specs come with a flywheel already
lightweight option on the steel flywheel is normally 75 dollars

 

[2GturboTALON]

really it comes with a flywheel? It should say that on the site.

 

[baxsom]

i know it comes with a steel one for the 420a
i have never checked on the 4g so it might be different for you guys
if not i guess we 420 guys finally get a break

 

[TSIfreek]

They dont come with flywheels. You can by one from them. Also they offer a pressure plate lightning service for 75.00. I would just recomend a stage 3 kit with a resurfaced stock flywheel. On the street and at the strip you want a heavy flywheel to get the car going faster. Lighter flywheels are more for road racing keeping the RPM up around corners but for low end is were they lack. If you think you need one just get a ACT street flywheel. But I think its a waist of money.

 

[97cLyPsE]

i just got my spec stage 3 install today. the pedal pressure is very light, is that normal for a stage 3? how long did u guys break urs in for?

 

[2GturboTALON]

yea i hear the engagement is weirdly soft.

 

[2GturboTALON]

Quote directly form the site.

"Steel flywheel standard with clutch kit. Remove rotating mass wihth our lightweight clutch option for $79.! "

what a great deal on a clutch and flywheel!!!

 

[tsi_neal]

Im running a stage 2 in mine. LOVE that clutch.
Stage 2 and 3 use the same pressure plate, just a different disc, kevlar or a 6 puck. and yes its very light, but man does it grab. I havent driven with a stage 3, but the 2 is super easy to drive and very smooth engagement, but when you want it to grab hard it does. Id image that the stage 3 is going to be significantly less road friendly since it is a pucked clutch...

 

[-red97rum-]

Id image that the stage 3 is going to be significantly less road friendly since it is a pucked clutch...

Thats the only thing making me lean more towards a stage 2. Can anyone who runs a stage 3 chime in? How is the engagement? Do you experience a significant amount of chatter under "normal" driving conditions? Is it similar to other puck style clutches (act's like an on/off switch)?

I want a smooth engaging clutch but I know you must sacrafice holding power to get it... But then again, it would be cheaper to replace the clutch and surface the flywheel every so often then it would be to replace an exploded center diff. Decisions decisions...

I'll most likely go with the stage two when I finish the motor.

-Dustin

 

[sumenlo]

Who has a Spec stage 2 or higher clutch? Are u happy with it? Will any lightweight flywheel work with it? how long is break in period for a stage 3?

So I'm bringing this thread back to life because one of the questions asked here was never answered. I'm installing my stage 3 today and I'm not sure at all what the break in period is, or what it entails. I've heard a couple different theories on breaking in a pucked clutch versus a full face disc clutch. I've been doing some research for the last half hour on the net and this site, and for some reason, I cannot find any resources that answer this question.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Well, I tried the stage 3 and it didnt work for me. But when I was on the phone with spec they told me to let it break in for 1k.

 

[RavenX]

I was dissappointed with my Spec Stage 3. Clutch started slipping after 3,000 miles and i was only making around mid 300's hp. I just swaped out to a ACT 2600 pressure plate because the Spec PP could not provide the clamping force needed. However the 6 puck ceramic kevlar disc is really nice and grabs just wish they beefed up on there pressure plate

 

[sumenlo]

Well, I tried the stage 3 and it didnt work for me. But when I was on the phone with spec they told me to let it break in for 1k.

thanks for the input, but that doesn't really help me at all. I know that clutches need a certain amount of milage of break-in, but what is the process? What do you do to the clutch in the first thousand miles of break-in? do you slip it bad the first few times on purpose because it's a pucked clutch, or do you just drive it real easy for a thousand miles? That's what I want to know...........not how long it takes, but what it takes to break in the spec stage 3 clutch.

Also, I'm not looking for complaints or comparisons for responses. I really don't care if you don't like the spec or not. That doesn't help me for what I'm trying to do.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

What do you guys think about the Spec Stage 1? I'm thinking of going with Stage 2, but I wanna hear what people think about the stage 1. This is my DD so I want driveability and smoothness to be up to par.

 

[dnhieu]

i have the spec stage 1 in my 1st gen. and i have ruffly about 8-900 miles on it so far. so far i dont really like the clutch. it just feels funny. i dunno if its because my slave cylinder or master cylinder is bad but it just grabs in diffrent places at diffrent times. i have launched it about 5 times and it grabs GREAT but i dont like the feel of it. if the act 2600 didnt screw up clutch pedal assemblys i would have stuck with that. i have a spec stage 3 for my motor rebuild and i hope i like that one better....

 

[RavenX]

thanks for the input, but that doesn't really help me at all. I know that clutches need a certain amount of milage of break-in, but what is the process? What do you do to the clutch in the first thousand miles of break-in? do you slip it bad the first few times on purpose because it's a pucked clutch, or do you just drive it real easy for a thousand miles? That's what I want to know...........not how long it takes, but what it takes to break in the spec stage 3 clutch.

Also, I'm not looking for complaints or comparisons for responses. I really don't care if you don't like the spec or not. That doesn't help me for what I'm trying to do.

According to Spec the break-in period is 500 miles of city driving. Just stop and go traffic pretty much. Whne you buy the clutch from them you get a sheet of paper with the info on breaking it in etc etc

 

[sumenlo]

According to Spec the break-in period is 500 miles of city driving. Just stop and go traffic pretty much. Whne you buy the clutch from them you get a sheet of paper with the info on breaking it in etc etc

I guess that's my problem. I never got that piece of paper. I guess they forgot to include it with my shipment. Thanks for the info.

 

[dave99gst]

Im done breaking in my Stage3 -
I love the feel -
I have some slight chatter (normal with a puck style) but its not that big of a deal and
easy to control.

and yes-- the pedal is wildy light.

 

[dnhieu]

how slippable is it? how does the launch feel?

 

[RoasT BeeF]

thanks for the input, but that doesn't really help me at all. I know that clutches need a certain amount of milage of break-in, but what is the process? What do you do to the clutch in the first thousand miles of break-in? do you slip it bad the first few times on purpose because it's a pucked clutch, or do you just drive it real easy for a thousand miles? That's what I want to know...........not how long it takes, but what it takes to break in the spec stage 3 clutch.

Also, I'm not looking for complaints or comparisons for responses. I really don't care if you don't like the spec or not. That doesn't help me for what I'm trying to do.

How about you call them then? You will get mixed reviews about how to properly break a clutch in on this board. Also, you asked what the break in PERIOD was, thats why I replied with 1k. Dont ask if you dont want an answer.

 

[larsrya8]

Quote directly form the site.

"Steel flywheel standard with clutch kit. Remove rotating mass wihth our lightweight clutch option for $79.! "

what a great deal on a clutch and flywheel!!!

It only says that under the Non-Turbo table. The Turbo clutches cost about $100 less than the N/Ts for each model, so I'm fairly sure that they don't include a flywheel. That and Spec's site doesn't say anything about providing one either.

Still, it's a fairly good price on a clutch with good torque holding and light pedal pressure. I'll either get a Stage 2+ or 3+ when the time comes.

 

[beissen]

Ok I dont have a 2G or 1G sorry but I do have a Eclipse dont bash me it was a mistake. But I have a Spec STG2 in my 03 Eclipse GTS,They say 500 miles stop and go but that will take forever trust me. If you just drive keeping the RPM's below 3500 and dont launch it or burn out or race with it during break in. It will melt the disc and Glaze it over. It will feel real light on a Stg 2 but has a lower grab area meaning it will grab sooner then the stock one.
It will be almost stock feel on Stg2 but a Stg 3 Puck style if a 6 puck its not that bad on the Street but the 4 puck is horriable its not mean for daily driveing. The 6 Puck will be a little more difficult but you will adjust. Drive for about 1K miles and keep below 3500 and 60MPH that way it dont heat up to bad and let it cool of for a bit before driveing it dont drive it for 500 miles and then cool off for 1 hour. The point is to heat cool heat cool getting it to harden I guess. But the Stg 2 in my GTS is great and the grab is awesome and I have the Stock HP of a Turbo car that is stock but 4 ft/lbs of torque less. I hope that helps a little. I dont listen to Spec cus a friend of mine glazed his cluch in 550 miles during break in thinking 500 was ok.

 

[4G63 For Me]

I have the Spec Stage 3+ (the full faced iron disc) and it's great. Pedal pressure feels practically stock and my tires (AWD) break loose before the clutch loses grip.

ACT who??

 

[daren_p]

For the break in period they usually want it to be stop & go traffic & to stay out of boost. Going on a highway trip for the recommended length isn't going to break in the clutch properly.