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Damn Clutch.

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TSiWarrior

15+ Year Contributor
300
10
Feb 17, 2005
Detroit, Michigan
Damn Clutch.

I picked up my first dsm the other day, it's plauged with problems. It's got a new 3200lb clutch with copper 6 puck and it doesnt like to fully disengauge. I'm assuming that eagle used rubber lines to the tranny and they are expanding when I press the clutch. I'm going to try to ajust the thing tommorow. I was wondering if there are any free/cheap mods I can do to get the clutch to release better, quicker, and easier. The weight of the clutch puts a toll on my leg when im doing normal driving. I've got a 55" lenth of 3/16" steel brake line and some unions if that will be of any help.
 
3200 lb clamp?? i thought the biggest made was a 2900lb. i can see why its having trouble. i would ditch that clutch especially for the reason that its a racing puck design and that it will destroy your tranny. go to either a 2100 lb act or a 2600 lb act depending on your level of mods
 
I do not have the cash for a new clutch, or even new seals. My mods are 2.5" no-cat exaust, SACF, 550cc Injectors, external dump, MBC, Short Shifter, and K&N Filter.
 
well enjoy your non streetable clutch and the damage it will do to your tranny. and i would recommend a bigger fuel pump as your next mod judging by what you already have
 
What do you think I could get for it? it's only got maybe 1000 miles on it.

If I dont dump the clutch will everything still be good? I'm in the middle of putting a 4bolt rear into my car, the 3bolt is blown. I'd like a less heavy clutch but like I said, im broke.
 
temporary fix... get a stock clutch. It will be cheaper to pay about $200 for a temp. stocker as opposed to the pain of a busted tranny and anout $1000 for a rebuild.
 
Put some washers behind the pivot ball on the clutch fork. I suggest 3 washers. You can do this without taking out the tranny, but it is hard.

I DO NOT SUPPORT KEEPING THAT CLUTCH!

But if you want try this:

Unbolt the slave cylinder, and unbolt the hard line where it mounts to the tranny so you can get it out of the way.

Take the rubber boot off the clutch fork. (you may want to remove the brace right under the engine/tranny so you can see better.) Push the clutch fork towards the driver side with your hand. You should see the pivot ball.

Thread the pivot ball out far enough to get 3 washers behind it.

Get 3 washers, don't remeber the size of the hole, I will see if I can find out for you, or you will have to play with some washers.

Take the 3 washers and cut notches out of em so you can just slide them in. You may also want to put a little grease on em to hold them in place until you get the pivot ball threaded back down.

Thread the pivot ball back down. Put everything back together.

Now your clutch should disengage all the way.

You may need to adjust the clutch pedal after this as it will probably want to engage as soon as you lift off the pedal. Go to www.vfaq.com on how to do that.
 
Damit, im super pissed now. I bought this car 2 weeks ago, and so far i've had to run new brake lines, new fuel lines, new calipers, put a 4bolt rear, new plugs, new power steering lines, new radiator lines, and it needed a stereo but I put in a dvd/tv tuner and a flip down screen I had, very nice. Anyone have any suggestions how I can make the car last with this clutch untill I figure out how to pay for a new one? or maybe a trade to a racer for a 2600lb?
 
TSiWarrior said:
Anyone have any suggestions how I can make the car last with this clutch untill I figure out how to pay for a new one? or maybe a trade to a racer for a 2600lb?

ummmm....... how about doing what I just mentioned above? Thats what I had to do with my clutch to make it work. And Jason at f2uning.com recomends it.
 
What exactly is this clutch going to do to my tranny? And what are the chances of the damage not happening? I found a guy what would trade for a stocker but im not shure I want to have a stock clutch beings as I drive in alot of traffic and I also like to launch the car, so I dont think a stock would hold up long. You happen to know the thickness of the washers?
 
A stock clutch will hold up better than you think, it just won't stand up to repeated launches or holy very high HP. As far as your problem this is the most common problem with heavy duty clutches. For a quick fix do the washer mod listed here or get a longer clutch rod (they are all over EBAY)

Advice from a real "car guy"??? You should be able to trade with someone your setup for their more sedate setup. I'd trade the whole shebang when you do it, that includes the flywheel. Therefore you can just bolt on their setup and go. That racing clutch may require a differant step height than a stock type clutch.
 
Baron4406 said:
For a quick fix do the washer mod listed here or get a longer clutch rod (they are all over EBAY)


Longer slave cylinder rod won't fix it. His clutch fork is most likely hitting the transmission and stopping.
 
Hardly matters now, I just got ripped off $300 for a 4bolt rear. Stupid prick took my money then disconnected his phone and hasnt shipped anything from his house. That was the only $300 I had too, I was even takeing bottles back for the 10cent refund just to make that $300.
I only have stuff to trade atm.
 
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