clutch adjustment problem/what are they talking about?

[Flowgoode]

This came from the TRE site on their clutch adjustment page.

"3. Inspect the clutch pedal assembly. The 1st gen DSMs have a pedal assembly that over time will wear out. There are bushings that wear out but most often the nut, that holds the end bracket to the shaft, backs off the bracket gets slotted out. The end result is reduced clutch stroke which can cause the clutch disc to drag. If you grab the clutch pedal with your hand and lift upward and the pedal raises up, you will need to remove the clutch linkage and repair it."

Mine lifts maybe a centimeter but anyway, I have an ACT 2100 and I have adjusted my pedal by losening the nut and backin the shaft toward the firewall/cylinder and then re-tightening the nut. My problem is the clutch doesnt disengage all the way. After I adjust it, it shifts fine for about a day or two then it goes right back. Is the slave cylinder or master cylinder going bad? or is it what ^^^ they are talkin about? Please help, I hate grinding gears and rolling forward with the clutch in and in gear at a stoplight. Also I know the guys with the 2600 get the extended slave cylinder rod, but I shouldn't need that with a 2100 right? Thanks.

 

[falcone4g63]

Did you shim the clutch pivot ball or have the flywheel machined to the right step hight?

 

[Flowgoode]

I have a brand new xact streetlite flywheel and no I didnt shim the pivot ball, i only have a 2100 i shouldnt have to do that should I?

 

[krummel45]

Check out this site towards the bottom theres info. that might help you make that decition.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

 

[rspark520]

i had the same problem, and found out that the slave had gone bad and just had to get that replaced. now i have to replace the master cylinder though as well. how did you adjust the pushrod and move it towards the firewall? did you remove the pin holding it to the spring or is there another way i don't know about?

 

[Flowgoode]

you loosen the nut on the rod then turn the rod to that it goes toward the fire wall (clockwise if your looking at the firewall from inside the car). I used a pair of vice grips to turn it on the non threaded part. Its a pain in the ass to get to, but thats how ya do it.

 

[rspark520]

thats a relief, cuz i was trying to take that &*#@ clevis pin out and couldn't even see it let alone reach it. believe me when i say that it will be much easier to just turn that rod. make sure you check that slave cylinder on your car though. just push the boot around that rod back, and if fluid pours out that means it has gone bad. replace, bleed and hopefully that will fix your problem. if that doesn't do it, then you probably have the same problem as me, and have to replace the whole cylinder.