Custom Driveshaft

[LilGdsm]

Has anyone built one? I'm considering constructing something a little bit beefier using a lot more solid u-joints. It appears that I can make a two piece, but keeping the cv joint, since its there for some driveshaft travel. Or use a slip shaft to replace it.

Anyone already been down this road?

 

[igopoopy]

are you your self going to make it?
if so take it to a drive shaft shop to have it balenced

 

[LilGdsm]

yup, custom and I would have it balanced afterwards.

anyone tried this and found any issues with flex/vibrations due to length?

 

[Tevenor]

How much power did it take to snap your last one? And if you haven't snapped it yet, why are you dicking with it? The only advantage you can possibly be gaining is to lose rotational weight. In the end, it won't be that much saved once you design it to withstand the driveline shock and torque created by the motor.

 

[Jon Lane]

Shepherd's site says he has one of these: http://acpt.com/driveshaft/index.html

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

www.driveshaftshop.com

 

[ISUJakey]

I've worked with the crew at Precision Shaft Technologies and been nothing but impressed. We needed a lightweight driveshaft for our 1/4 scale pulling tractor here at school and they custom built a telescoping, carbon fiber driveshaft for us. I'll try to post some pictures tonight.

PST's website is: http://www.pstds.com/

 

[GRNDSM]

I am still on a stock drive-shaft... We usually brake the yoke or the transfer case, long before the driveshaft.

 

[LilGdsm]

I am still on a stock drive-shaft... We usually brake the yoke or the transfer case, long before the driveshaft.

I'm breaking u-joints. The stocker ones are dinky, so I figured if I could utilize a larger/stronger u-joint and build a joke/spline/shaft around that, then I would be good to go.

Does anyone know of some strong u-joints for the time being?

 

[CheapTalon]

I was thinking about doing this to my car in the future, but that is still a ways away. Less drivetrain loss, and it absorbs more shock on launching etc so that the rear-end and t-case don't have to. I emailed ACPT and they told me $1900 for a one piece shaft, and around $1200 for a two piece (carbon fiber). Needless to say, this is a little outta my price range.....

 

[GSX_RCR]

How much power did it take to snap your last one? And if you haven't snapped it yet, why are you dicking with it? The only advantage you can possibly be gaining is to lose rotational weight. In the end, it won't be that much saved once you design it to withstand the driveline shock and torque created by the motor.

I just wanted to jump in and say that an aluminum driveshaft will help absorb some shock in the drivetrain due to it's torsional properties, as compared to the stock piece.

 

[GRNDSM]

I'm breaking u-joints.

OEM or aftermarket?

 

[LilGdsm]

OEM or aftermarket?

Aftermarket ones, the dealer told me the OEM ones were no different for what I'm doing. I'm not sure if I believe him, but for the price of them I'm not too excited to try them.

I've ordered Spicer U-Joints for now, they suppose to be solid. I'll post results.

 

[Tevenor]

So you are trying to redesign the stock stuff that you aren't breaking because you are breaking similar unknown-quality aftermarket stuff? Does that sum it up?

 

[LilGdsm]

So you are trying to redesign the stock stuff that you aren't breaking because you are breaking similar unknown-quality aftermarket stuff? Does that sum it up?

I want to build a simple driveshaft compared to the stocker three piece and I'm considering usuing a larger, stronger u-joint. I don't care for the aftermarket ones I've been getting and looking at the dealer ones, they do not appear any stronger. So I see no point in spending the money on them just to turn around and probably snap those.

For what has been done to this car, I see no point in using stock components in the driveline, just seems to be asking for trouble.

So other than considering about ordering one, has anyone actually built one and found any issues with it?

 

[Tevenor]

I just wanted to jump in and say that an aluminum driveshaft will help absorb some shock in the drivetrain due to it's torsional properties, as compared to the stock piece.

As does carbon fiber. Although more brittle in compression and shear than aluminum, it is also lighter.

 

[GRNDSM]

Aftermarket ones, the dealer told me the OEM ones were no different for what I'm doing. I'm not sure if I believe him, but for the price of them I'm not too excited to try them.

I've ordered Spicer U-Joints for now, they suppose to be solid. I'll post results.

I haven’t seen many broken U-joints, but they were ALL aftermarket… I would stick with OEM stuff

 

[scotthidley]

I haven’t seen many broken U-joints, but they were ALL aftermarket… I would stick with OEM stuff

On top of that dealers don't see engineering prints where material grades and properties are specified, let alone any aftermarket copy. Since he isn't willing to buy a new dealer part, I'd recommend finding a junk yard cars driveshaft and trying that out. That'll give him somewhat of an idea if it's stronger (considering it's already used/rusting,..).

I'd also like to know how much power he's making, how the car's driven, and under what conditions these keep breaking. In the few years I've been in dsm's, this is the first complaint I've seen of the driveshaft. Also what rear end is being used, it'd be funny if it's an original 3 bolt.

 

[Tevenor]

On top of that dealers don't see engineering prints where material grades and properties are specified, let alone any aftermarket copy. Since he isn't willing to buy a new dealer part, I'd recommend finding a junk yard cars driveshaft and trying that out. That'll give him somewhat of an idea if it's stronger (considering it's already used/rusting,..).

I'd also like to know how much power he's making, how the car's driven, and under what conditions these keep breaking. In the few years I've been in dsm's, this is the first complaint I've seen of the driveshaft. Also what rear end is being used, it'd be funny if it's an original 3 bolt.

I have a complete driveshaft out of a 92 TSI AWD just laying around, as it happends.

LilGdsm, if you want to try a stock complete driveshaft, it's yours. Just pay shipping. Then you can see if you break the stockers......correction....OEM stockers.

It takes some serious talent to smash u-joints but leave the 3-bolt rear end intact.

 

[LilGdsm]

I have a complete driveshaft out of a 92 TSI AWD just laying around, as it happends.

LilGdsm, if you want to try a stock complete driveshaft, it's yours. Just pay shipping. Then you can see if you break the stockers......correction....OEM stockers.

It takes some serious talent to smash u-joints but leave the 3-bolt rear end intact.

Sure, pm me and I'll take it off your hands.

4-bolt rearend btw. I have a distructive nature with any throttle driven toy.

Please suggestions as to construction of 2 piece driveshaft, maybe even a one piece. I also picked up some carrier bearings and those seem pretty lame, not as firm as I would like. Anyone thought of alternatives to them? Or a suitable replacement from another vehicle that could be made to fit a different driveshaft.

I'm looking for someone whose done this and what issues I might come up with.

 

[LilGdsm]

Dealer wants $104 a u-joint? WTF, that cannot be right. I asked him again that's $104 a piece and the response was yes. To which I said, that's expensive and kinda ridiculous, I'm going to try someplace else, thanks and the guy just hung up.

Am I missing something or was that the truth?

 

[Turbo442]

I have a 2 pc drive shaft I had built for my 90 AWD. One of the bearing carries had gone bad and the universals were getting sloppy after 140,000 mi. A drive shaft shop did it for me for like $170 total a few years back. New tubing on one end, one carrier removed, all new joints, balanced. I have over 30,000 miles on it no problem. I mainly did this mod since it did not cost much and reduced weight/complexity. (tubing cost about the same as an additional set of universals). Its not really a big deal for a drive shaft shop, they do that kind of stuff all day long.

Anyone know the engineering reasoning for Mitsubishi choosing 3 pc driveshaft?

http://www.rob.com/matt/pictures/car/imagesdsm/2-Pc_DS.jpg Sorry its just a thumbnail. I must have deleted the original.

MB

 

[hostile]

a word about a single shaft, the design lay out under the car makes it very hard to achieve proper operating angles if you were to make a one piece single shaft. I know there are carbon fiber companies making this shaft one piece but the fact remains the operating angle's are not correct for this to work properly and would take some extensive moving of the pinion angle to do this (reason for the 3 shaft's)

Quoted from http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item9507.ctlg

 

[GRNDSM]

Dealer wants $104 a u-joint? WTF, that cannot be right. I asked him again that's $104 a piece and the response was yes. To which I said, that's expensive and kinda ridiculous, I'm going to try someplace else, thanks and the guy just hung up.

Am I missing something or was that the truth?

I haven’t priced out a u-joints lately, but it used to be around $80, after club discount. His price sounds reasonable. However, if you buy a yoke recall kit for $30, it will come with a new u-joint!!!

Obviously Mitsu is doing some creative accounting there .

So if you need a new front u-joint, just buy that kit. I am not sure if the rear u-joint is the same.

 

[LilGdsm]

thanks guys, good info

we were worried about the pinion angle on this car and creating some binding between the two u joints. It was suggested to make a two piece and keep the cv joint to help this out.

that aluminum one looks interesting. I would like to find some guys running that.