Hydraulic clutch line for A/T -> manual convert.

[seth98es]

Im doing the Auto -> 5spd swap and this is the last part I have to find/make. Does home depot or Lowes/Home Depot sell the correct type of piping I need? What size is it and what size fittings do I need for it to bolt up to the clutch line and to the master cylinder? Does Lowes/Home Depot sell those too? Or should I go look at an auto parts store? Just looking for a little more information. Thanks!

 

[DiabloRT]

brake line from the local autoparts store. You can probably get 1 long enought lenght to go fromt the master cyl to the appropriate spot on the frame....with no breaks in it. Then a flex + hard line down to the slave.

 

[4G63 GST]

Road race engineering has stainless steel braided clutch line for really cheap. I bought that and an extended slave cylinder rod from them and it was like $40 for both shipped or something ..

Id check with them


Luke

 

[seth98es]

I already have a SS clutch line. I just need a hydrolic line

 

[bigfoot]

Mitsubishi boneyard.

 

[seth98es]

You mean Mitsubishi Graveyard? Ill check there...

 

[DiabloRT]

why get an old used line.....just make one up out of metal brake line. Bend it to the proper shapes, cut it to the proper size and flare the end and bingo.

 

[seth98es]

Does anyone know the part number for the connectors? Both master cylinder and the rubber clutch line/ss line? I havent gotten around to this yet but I am going to do it tomorrow if I can figure out what connectors I need and where to buy them. Thanks again

 

[treebonker]

If you can spare some $ why not make a SS clutch line from the master to the slave.

It aint cheap but it looks great and works great

 

[seth98es]

hmm so which AN fittings would I use now haha. What size ss line? Dont you have to use a different SS line than the fuel SS line? Something stronger? SS line is about $5 a foot right? It would be a lot easier to run SS line opposed to brake line. Either way it still needs to be done.

Does anybody know which fittings to use for either the SS or the hydrolic lines?

 

[treebonker]

You're in luck!! I've had zero luck getting any info so I just went out and bought the darn expensive fittings and tried some configurations. Currently there are no leaks and a little bling to the dull underhood. But I would like to have a chance to check for leaks one more time.

starting from the Master Cyl->

3/8-24 inverted flare male to -3an male adapter(master cyl has an inverted flare female end) (which to use?standard length/standard+crushwasher/long version,see below)

-3an female end fitting

-3an TEFLON coated ss lines (they are for brake/fuel/clutch/etc lines. Measure the length the way you want to run the lines.)

-3an banjo end fitting(3/8-24 or 10mm, most are sold as one fits all)

3/8-24 banjo bolt /w extra crush washers.(2 are provided with the bolt)

-> Slave Cyl.

I recommend something other than a straight fitting for the -3an female end fitting, reason being the ss line comes straight up and the bracket for the reservior cup is in the way, but the straight fitting does work. Cheaper alternative would be to grind the bracket a little.

I used all AEROQUIP stuff except for the adapter, the master cyl has a pretty deap thread length and I couldnt see the flared ends mating providing a seal with the standard length inv flare adapter. I have compared it to the the EARL's standard length and a long version. standard version has the same thread length as aeroquip but it has a wider bolt flange(better if I were to use crush washers here) the longer version is l o n g ~ and has more than enough thread length for the flared end to mate.

I was planning on using the long version but I somehow I was screwing down the shorter standard version in the master but it doesnt seem to leak. I dont know if the mating flat surface just jammed tight or if infact the flared end mated providing the right way of sealing. This is the main reason why I wanted to check again for any leaks.

I've used powder to see if the flares mated, they do infact touch but I'm not sure if its tight enough cuz the thread bottomed out sooner. I'll be chopping my old master in half to see if the flare ends seal tight with the standard version. If it doesnt I'll try the long version and if it leaks I'll go with the standard + crush washer. I have these parts laying around ya know

 

[seth98es]

Wow, awesome info man! I really appriciate it! So are there any cons about using an SS line instead of the brake line? Im using an ACT 2600 clutch and Xact flywheel. Will I see any problems with an SS setup?

 

[treebonker]

Teflon are what they use for ss brake lines. Its practically good for almost any chemical. Down side is I must say the price, some fittings are sold as a pair I chose aeroquip cuz they are easier to assemble, coatings on the steel gives a better look and its cheaper. Might be even cheaper if you could find non-brand names but I didnt bother as finding the right fittings itself was a PITA. Goodrich probably has a inverted male -3an end fitting you can use directly to the master but I couldnt get any info on the darn things.

 

[seth98es]

So let me get these fittings straight before I order them.

AER-FBM2936

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AER-FBM3092

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AER-FBM2921

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I found all that at Summit, but where can I buy the teflon ss hose at?

 

[seth98es]

treebonker can you tell me if these are the p/n you used? Thanks I really apriciate it!

 

[seth98es]

Hmmm its not letting me click anything on that site. Do you have a direct link?

 

[treebonker]

#5. IF adapter
Earl's 581531 -3AN male to 3/8-24 inverted flare male adapter.
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095853686_ssclutchline_adapter_earls_compared.jpg

#4. Female fitting
Aeroquip FCM1100 -3AN straight TFE female hose fitting. >> more
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095853300_ssclutchline_female_aeroquip.jpg

#3. Teflon racing hose
Aeroquip FCC0310 -3 teflon racing hose, 10ft. You don't need 10ft., you can order custom length(diff. p/n).
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095852992_ssclutchline_aeroquip.jpg

#2. Banjo
Aeroquip FCM3091 -3 TFE hose fitting, 10mm.
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095849056_ssclutchline_banjo_aeroquip.jpg

#1. Banjo bolt
Aeroquip FCM2921 banjo bolt 3/8-24 /w 2 crush washers.
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095851749_ssclutchline_banjobolt_aeroquip.jpg

This is a picture of the master side showing the bracket getting in the way of the ss line.
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095845099_IMG_0739.JPG

pic of the slave end.
http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095844148_IMG_0730.JPG

 

[seth98es]

Wow man you are awesome! I cant thank you enough!

 

[seth98es]

Is there an Aeroquip equivalent part to the earls 581531? Im having troubles finding this part but I ordered everything else from Summit.

Maybe:

AER-FBM2926
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...AN+male+to+3/8-24+inverted+flare+male+adapter

 

[treebonker]

Yes thats the correct adapter from aeroquip, but like I said on my 2nd post theres a reason I went with earls. I havent had the time yet to slaughter my master to see if it seals correctly on the flared angles. So your best bet is to get the earls(standard) adapter and if it leaks put a crush washer there. FYI, mine is still holding and it's bone dry

"Image is a representation of this part. Actual part may vary". The middle bolt flange on the aeroquip's adapter is very narrow, not like in the picture on summit. As for earl's http://blogfile.paran.com/BLOG_73837/200409/1095845099_IMG_0739.JPG you can see its wide enough to accomodate a crush washer if need be.

Search for p/n 581531ERL on summit, they're always in stock.