F***ing ACT!!!! 2600

[DBR GVR4]

Damn it. just got the clutch working right after pulling the tranny twice (had to shim the pivot ball). Its been running good now for 5 days and now. When i start driving to go to lunch the clutch is making all kinds of weird noises and i cant hardly shift into any gears. WTF IS GOING ON!!!! Pedal still feels good, but the noise sounds like something came apart. Ive only got about 250 miles on the darn thing. I havent raced or anything yet. It worked perfectly fine this morning on the way to work...... AHH Damn i hate this!!


Sorry i have to vent..... ive read a couple post about springs comeing out of the hub. Does this sound like what happend???
Thanks

 

[GSX_RCR]

A spring could have popped out and be rattling inside. Also, it'll interfere with the clutch engagement, so that's maybe why you're having a difficult time getting into gear.

Bite the bullet and take out the tranny again. Sorry.

 

[DBR GVR4]

grrrr.....

 

[frontdriver]

I just helped someone pull a trans. with the same issues. First replaced the master cyl., then slave, then pulled and welded the pedal assy. Finally pulled the trans. to find a spring popped out and lodged between the street disc and flywheel. Symptoms, shifts when not running, can't shift when running. When trying to engage into gear you'll hear it trying to slow the engine down but will not go in gear. Replaced with 6 puck unsprung, 2600, and Fidanza. Shifts beautifully but takes your fillings out when releasing the clutch. I heard there's a lot of people with the same problems and ACT should be contacted for warrarnty advice.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

is it needed to shim the pivot ball when installing an act - or only if you need to. I just want to make sure so i don't have to pull the trans out more then I have to.

I got a new oem master/slave cylinder also.

 

[boostedinaz]

is it needed to shim the pivot ball when installing an act - or only if you need to. I just want to make sure so i don't have to pull the trans out more then I have to.

I got a new oem master/slave cylinder also.

You should only have to do it if you ball and fork dont have proper alignment. Everytime I have done a clutch I put a new ball and fork and have never had any problems with misalignment.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

well i got a new pivot ball and clutch fork, so I guess I should be fine?

 

[1fast97gsx]

well i got a new pivot ball and clutch fork, so I guess I should be fine?

yep

 

[eclpsegsx12]

My ACT destroyed my bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, and TOB. Only 500 mles on it. I cant even believe how TERRIBLE their customer service is!!!

 

[IMMORTALSPYDER]

Wow another one of these threads. ACT has really gone to shit and there's no way I'm going to buy one.

 

[boostedinaz]

There is an entire thread on this in the hangout and I only counted 9 people that had a clutch fail. 9 out of how many they make a year sounds more like a bad batch than ACT going down the crapper. I have had mine in there for a few months and when I swapped trannies I looked at it and it seemed fine. I think before we all start a rumor that ACT has become shitty that we should look at the entire situation.

 

[sweet97]

I had the same problem with my clutch barely disengaging and grinding into gear on occasion. My mechanic welded a nut with the same threading as the threads in the "C" block that the master rod threads into. This added enough extra push on the master rod to disengage the clutch fully. I have a new TRE-Spec tranny that came with the fluid accumulator and he bypassed that also. The pedal is stiffer but now engaging 3" from the floor!! PtL!

 

[my97mitsGSX]

My ACT destroyed my bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, and TOB. Only 500 mles on it. I cant even believe how TERRIBLE their customer service is!!!

damn, every post i read has something bad to say about ACT.

 

[99gst_racer]

There is an entire thread on this in the hangout and I only counted 9 people that had a clutch fail. 9 out of how many they make a year sounds more like a bad batch than ACT going down the crapper. I have had mine in there for a few months and when I swapped trannies I looked at it and it seemed fine. I think before we all start a rumor that ACT has become shitty that we should look at the entire situation.

I agree. I've had my ACT in for about 18 months and never had a problem. Even when I swapped my tranny about 2 months ago, it looked fine. For every person that has an ACT fail on them, there's 1000 people that have no problems at all. ACT is definately not going down the crapper.....

-Paul-

 

[pimpinboudy]

i have some good to say about ACT i have the 2100 and have had it for about 2 years. well i think it might be time for a 2600 or higher with the new engine and turbo. mine seems to not want to switch into gears on high rpms with a fast shift. i would be out racing and i would shift fast and the engine would rev up but would be going any faster. then i let out the gas and it grabs and then goes. the clutch pedal seems to be stuck there when i shift fast like im shifting to fast for it or somthing. Well i can't complain like i said i've had mine for 2 yrs. soo GOOD JOB ACT!!!!!!!!

 

[99gst_racer]

I had the same problem with my clutch barely disengaging and grinding into gear on occasion. My mechanic welded a nut with the same threading as the threads in the "C" block that the master rod threads into. This added enough extra push on the master rod to disengage the clutch fully. I have a new TRE-Spec tranny that came with the fluid accumulator and he bypassed that also. The pedal is stiffer but now engaging 3" from the floor!! PtL!

Hey do you maybe have a picture of this?? I'd really like to see this mod. that you're describing.

-Paul-

 

[sweet97]

I don't have a pic and am not sure I could get one given it's position. Are you familiar with the "C" BOX shaped fixture that the master rod csrews into? Well mine was adjusted right to the end of the threads and my clutch would barely disengage with everything new! This "C" piece is bolted to the lever at the end of the clutch linkage rod.
What he did was find 2 nuts that had the same threading as the threads on the rod of the master. One he welded onto the flat side of the "C" piece facing the firewall. The second was treaded on to the master rod first and then the rod threaded into the NUT that was welded to the "C". The first nut that was threaded on acts as a lock nut once you have the rod where you want it. This gives the rod a much longer stroke which increases the pressure and did the trick to release the pressure plate. As I stated it is like new engageing a good 3" from the floor. To weld the nut in the proper orientation I believe the rod would have to be threaded through the nut to be welded and the "C" bracket. Since I also installed an OEM master at the same time he hada rod to use though I believe you cold use the one in your master, just remove it. I may have the old rod if you need to use it. He tried shimming the slave rod and that did not help. New tranny, master ACT clutch and NO pedal, VERY frustrating. I hope my description helped. Now I have a lot of adjustment if I want the clutch to engage a little sooner. If I can clear anything up just ask. Mark
PS: The 2G's have a cylinder on the passenger side near the frontthat he bypassed also. This is called a fluid accumulator and makes the pedal softer. I would also bypass that.