FWD 5 spd-how much power can it handle

[Imp Pwr Online]

Ok, I am not new to this forum, although I don't post much, nore new to other forums. I did a simple search and also looked at the threads here in the tranny section and the FAQs and didn't find what I need. If there are threads please post the links and I will be good to go. Please don't post - Search you noob.

I have a 93 3000GTSL which has the identical tranny as the DSM FWD. It is a purpose built drag only car. Large turbo setup-PT70TSM. Which will be capable of big numbers. I don't have the cash for what I should get, a quaife or Kaaz. I do know there are more FWD DSMs in the 10's (I know there are MANY faster, bear with me) than there are 3S AWD or FWDs in the 11's. But since the SL shares the tranny I figured I should go to the people who have gotten results. Which is why I am here.

Now, there are a few 3S NA conversion (to TT) guys and one or two have totally shattered the tranny and we are talking 14 second cars. Nothing earth shattering. So my question is Why the hell can a DSM tear down the strip with the same tranny that 3S FWDs grenade running anything lower than 15s?

People on 3si wnat to tell me I can't compare the two. When they even know full well the trannys, except for the bell housing are identical. Why the hell can't you compare exact components? The 3S certainly doesn't put a hoax on it making it explode if it sees under 15 seconds. :laugh:

Ok, since I don't have money for the right way. How well do these options work? Remember Drag only trailered to the track car.

1. LSD insert (heavy duty tool stell with uprated springs)
2. #1 with welded diff pin
3. Welding the damn diff

 

[pneumo]

Obviously the trannies are the same, so they can handle the same ammount of torque, but the 3k GT weighs more and has more weight on the front end, increasing traction. With a FWD DSM there isn't much weight in the car, so it either goes, or it spins.

Typically what breaks a FWD trans is wheel hop. The weakest part is the roll pin that holds the cross shaft in the front diff. My first recomendation would be a new LSD diff such as a Quaife or Kaaz. Second choice would be to weld the cross shaft to the diff case. If you do this install the LSD insert first.

I would not recomend welding the diff in any way that turns it into a locked diff, as in, a spool. Steering and controllability would be krap.

As for the overall power level where the trans breaks (i.e. gears and shafts), I can't help you there. I stopped racing my FWD after I got to the 300 HP level, and I didn't break any gears.