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Guys with Big16G and FWD. Do you have traction probs. like I do?

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BacknBlack92ESi

20+ Year Contributor
2,340
0
Feb 19, 2003
Kansas City, Missouri
Since I did the N/T to Turbo conversion using the Big16G. Ever since I CAN NOT get any traction at all from a 1st gear roll, slight spin in 2nd, and still a big bark in 3rd. From a stop, its horrible. I try so many different ways of launching but nothing works. I tried 2K, 2500K, 3K, I even tried launching from idle, but once the B16G spools I just break traction. It really pisses me off. I have brand new tires on the front. Do any of you guys with the Big16G and FWD have this problem too? I dont want to spend alot of money on LSD. What have you tried? Any help will be great.
 
I launch at around 3grand all the time just ezz of the clutch then punch sec. What you might wanna do is invest in a b&m insert there around 200 bucks. I would wait till you change out the clutch it would be cheaper on the labor since your not doing your own work. www.slowboyracing.com has them and i think there doing a sale hop on it.
 
That much wheelspin is normal for a FWD with a few basic supporting mods. My FWD does the same thing with just a catback, KN filter and free mods! Take some weight out of the back, that will help the front tires hook up a little better.
 
I trust HRC when it comes to my RS. Here is a quote from there site - Check out HAHN's 420A here - regarding launch and wheel spin with their modded 420A:

"A typical 11.70 pass with the Eclipse goes like this: After a light burnout, I stage the car. Bring the RPM to about 4000 and wait for the first yellow. Pump the throttle once, twice, then out comes the clutch. I drive into the clutch, with a low RPM initial engagement to get the car moving without tirespin. I will not attain full throttle until higher RPM in first gear, when boost is at 16 PSI. Just before second gear upshift, I hit the button on the GReddy remote. When I come back on in second gear, the boost will rise to 28 PSI and the car makes a major move. This boost is then maintained through the rest of the track, and I run through the lights in the top of fourth gear at over 120 MPH. "

In the same article they say the following regarding suspension mods to help the FWD grab:

"The modified front suspension gives the car a rakish, muscle car look with its rear end at stock height. The suspension really helps keep the center of gravity forward on the car during acceleration, and helps immensely on the track or on the street."

Hope this helps. I find HRC really know what they are talking about, especially regarding N/T's w/turbo

peace

:dsm:
 
man my cars tires break loose from a roll out in 2nd gear. I get no traction till like 70 or 75mph. the only thing that will help is lsd but that is a lot of $$$. I have wanted to buy an awd several times (usually every time I have to get yet another pair of tires.) But every time I watch smithys car, I remenber how fun fwds are at the track.
 
when i had my 17c turbo (its like a big 16g, roughly):

if i went all out 1-3rd starting from a stop, i would spin and smoke tires to about 85mph due to never having traction, if i punch it in 2nd gear, it would spin from 40mph-top of 2nd, this is normal for a big 16g equipped car,
that was running the ol' 17c at 20psi
 
I Have a quiafe lsd with some supporting mods( check out my profile), its still a B*tch getting traction, Im still having alot of difficulty getting first gear in right, ive tried everything like you guys, the best ive gotten is fethering the clutch but when it starts grabbing the wheels start spinning so then I fether the gas wich really sucks because then I lose boost pressure, I have my boost controler set at 16 psi, until finally the tires grab at the top of 1st I shift to second and stomp on the gas a chirp and off I go. I have the greedy profec b with the low and high settings for boost, but no remote to switch with. so i know thats all I need set the low to 12 psi and high to 16 (with race gas to 18-19)
Good luck, but the best thing I think you can do is get a dual stage boost controler with a remote.
 
Dual stage boost controllers rock! I had one from Dejontool.com and the switch was on the tranny so that when I was in first I had 12 psi and as soon as I shifted to second I had full boost. It was very nice. He doesn't make them anymore, and I got AWD since then anyway.

Another trick I did to help the FWD hook up without any LSD is to reduce the tire pressure in the wheel that spins. It's kinda tricky to get the pressure just right, but once it's set right you can feel one tire spin for a few yards, then hookup as the other tire starts to spin a little, etc.
I also found some rubber suspension blocks at Pep Boys for only $5. You stuff them in between the coils of the rear springs to stiffen the rear end so it doesn't sag with the weight transfer. It helps keep the front end planted, like the quote from Hahn talks about. It may not seem like it would help much, and it doesn't, but if you do all the other little things too it adds up, and pretty soon the 60 foot times come down and 3rd gear is useable again.
 
My car can lose traction in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd if i try, but launching a turbo'd FWD car is an artform, you have to learn your clutch pedal pressure and what exact rpm your wheels start to give way at. Some Nitto DR's will help on the front for street. in the long run, it will make you a better driver if you ever go to the AWD. I am just going to keep building my motor to be a beast and then buy a GSX and do a motor swap. Probably when i re-enlist and get a bonus so i will have some dough, cuz this car has made me broke as a mo' fo' puttin all these upgrades in it.
 
I kind of like the dual stage boost controller idea! What is a good one to go with. I dont want to dish out the dough for the greddy profect b!
 
Look at MMi Racing dual stage controllers. One that switches between stock and a chosen psi for $80 and another that switches between two chosen psi's for $130. DSMparts.com
 
Like it's been said before, the lsd is #1. Slowboy has the BM Tranny, which is supposed to be one of the best, deflating the tires(but not too much), and the 2-stage boost controller helps out a great deal also. I know it's hard, but you have to take it easy on the gas as well, at least until you get past 4.5k in 2nd gear anyway.
 
I think anyone that has ever owned a fwd has had this problem.Best thing i found is to just get used to it on the street (hint dont race anyone unless your on the highway)and get slicks for the track.dont oversize your clutch i thought that would cure my problem but i was wrong seemed easier slipping the 2100 pounders.my friend has the greddy boost controller with the low high boost setting and it works damn good but if you have anything over a 16g you really have to keep the boost down or they still spin.I once thought an awd was the answer for traction but even they start to be limited with bigger turbos my brothers 1g talon was spinning the fronts and then the rears in 1st and 2nd just keep in mind it has to be a few things you have to address before you get traction.
 
I can't wait until I get enough power to spin the tires. :cry: I squeal 'em a little bit through 1st but that's it. Maybe it's the auto. Maybe it is good for something. I can't even spin 'em brake-torquing to 2k rpm.
 
Yeah Man FWD suck ass for drag racing.
I have a 91 Talon FWD turbo, Of course:)

Its automatic as well, when stopped and goint WOT, i can spin tire till around 75mph, from a 30-45mph roll im still spinning tire, they spin all through 1st 2nd and just as it shifts to 3rd they hook. Im only running 10 psi on a big16g cause I have 9:1 compression running 2.4 60ft, with a 13.6 @105 mph 1/4 mile time. spinniing almost to the 1/8 mile. Slicks are what Im getting to fix this :) Also have 91 GSX in the garage awaiting the FWD motor:)
Anyone running slicks, that can give some info on what brands are the best for he $$

Clayton
 
So I am looking for some predictions... I just put a Frank stage 3 and some other stuff on my first gen FWD.. I have shocks springs, polyurethane motor mounts and energy susp. suspention bushings, I am finishing the projects right now, with the intention to get LSD in a month or so,

so how much wheel spin do you think I'm goona get?
 
A LOT!

you can get the BM LSD insert to save you some dinero if you are insistant upon setting up your fwd. Invest in some good tires, that would probably help you out the most on your 60ft times. Also, if you do not already have it, get the profec B boost controller. With it's remote switch, you can launch at a low setting, then once you gradually hook up switch to high setting and hopefully catch up to the awd that is already way in front of you.

Just do what i did, sell your gst and get a AWD if you are more about dragging, FWD is only good for highway and rolling races due to the lighter body weight.

From a drag, FWD vs AWD, or RWD, of around the same horsepower, it should be no contest, for what the AWD's and RWD's give up in weight, they more than make up for it on their lauches, AWD's have all four going at it, and RWD's have the benefit of weight transfer, you on the other hand have all your weight going away from your wheels, which are trying to get traction......and aren't doing too well at it.
 
I have an APEXi AVCR that is set to increase boost with gears, and hopefully quieffe LSD will get orderd next week, I'll let you know how it goes...
 
I just got back from the track. Now, I realize traction is key! I ran a best of 108mph w/ only a 14.202 e.t. I lost to a SRT-4 that ran 14.00 @ 99mph! His sixties were consisent 2.0-2.2s. Mine were 2.4-2.6s. I must mention that I was on my street 18in kumhos though. Even so, those neons hook up all day long!!!! The '03s don't even has lsd!! I asked a neon owner how does he get traction off the line. He said he launches at idle, yep a whole whopping 700rpm. Damn 2.4L!! I tried launching at idle before and my turbo didnt spool for two days!:laugh: I wonder why neons don't have as bad of a traction problem as we do.
 
Originally posted by pickens
I wonder why neons don't have as bad of a traction problem as we do.

Because the SRT 4s have a quaife-equivalent limited slip differential.
 
Originally posted by pickens
I just got back from the track. Now, I realize traction is key! I ran a best of 108mph w/ only a 14.202 e.t. I lost to a SRT-4 that ran 14.00 @ 99mph! His sixties were consisent 2.0-2.2s. Mine were 2.4-2.6s. I must mention that I was on my street 18in kumhos though. Even so, those neons hook up all day long!!!! The '03s don't even has lsd!! I asked a neon owner how does he get traction off the line. He said he launches at idle, yep a whole whopping 700rpm. Damn 2.4L!! I tried launching at idle before and my turbo didnt spool for two days!:laugh: I wonder why neons don't have as bad of a traction problem as we do.

they have equal length half-shafts.

the DSM FWD system is incredibly shitty.
 
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