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draining the gas tank @ the track?

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STARION

20+ Year Contributor
193
0
May 30, 2002
Nova,
Hey guys,
I always find it tough to get the right amount of gas in the tank so that it's bone dry when I get to the track. As we all know, it's more or less worthless to go putting 2 gallons of 11X oct. into the tank when you still have a few gallons of 9X oct. left in there, you are only diluting things and just aren't taking advantage of the race gas. I'm gonna just take a couple 5 gallon jugs with me, use one to empty the pump gas into and the other to hold the race gas. I'm wanting to know if there is a quick and clean (splash free) way to empty the tank completely? Share your methods please.

thanks
 
Bring some 3' long rubber fuel hose and attach it where the fuel return line comes off the FPR. It's easy to reach. Then just let the engine run while gas is draining out. As always, be careful when handling gas.
 
Does anyone have a reliable method for draining the gas tank at the track???

I don't want to be draining gasoline when the engine is running.

I'm also not sure about using the drain plug at the track being that gas might spill everywhere.

Has anyone been able to come up with a way to remove the "anti-syphon" plate that is on the cars??

I've been contemplating whether or not I should try and remove it?? If I did get it removed, then you could use a syphon pump they sell at Walmart and "suck" the gas out of the tank and into a gas can.

The key here is something that can be done:

1) easily
2) quickly
3) safely
4) at the track
 
You should be able to get gas out with out running it with the ignition in the run position.

The pump primes the rail.

When you plumb your aftermarket AFPR use a t fitting with a plug on the side passage. Bleed the pressure, remove the plug and attatch your prefabbed drain hose to that port. Turn the ignition to on and it will keep on pumping. Since it isn't building pressure it will pump GPM like crazy and drain that tank fast.
 
Just be sure to put that T before the FPR so it bypasses from the rail to the gas can and does'nt have to go thru the FPR at all.
 
I just did this today in my garage as an experiment. I didn't do the T thing before the regulator but I see his point. It would definately not take as long that way for the gas to drain. The only thing is with the T is that I still think you would get some fuel returning back through the regulator since your not really blocking it. Maybe I'm wrong. Also, I didn't try this but wouldn't cranking up the base fuel pressure make it empty out faster. Anyway, it took about 10 minutes for me to drain about 4 gallons of gas which I didn't think was too bad. The only downside to this I see is drying out the fuel pump. The pump also uses the fuel as lubrication. I would think that repeeatedly doing this could burn it up prematurely. Oh weel, I'm doing it for now on. Especially since my gas gauge is now completely broke, I have no idea how much gas is in there when I get to the track.
 
I just did this today in my garage as an experiment. I didn't do the T thing before the regulator but I see his point. It would definately not take as long that way for the gas to drain. The only thing is with the T is that I still think you would get some fuel returning back through the regulator since your not really blocking it. Maybe I'm wrong. Also, I didn't try this but wouldn't cranking up the base fuel pressure make it empty out faster. Anyway, it took about 10 minutes for me to drain about 4 gallons of gas which I didn't think was too bad. The only downside to this I see is drying out the fuel pump. The pump also uses the fuel as lubrication. I would think that repeeatedly doing this could burn it up prematurely. Oh weel, I'm doing it for now on. Especially since my gas gauge is now completely broke, I have no idea how much gas is in there when I get to the track.
 
Cranking up the base pressure will make the pump work harder at a higher pressure but a lower flow rate.

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Notice how at low pressure the flow rate almost doubles.
 

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Yes.

Get the flow from before the regulator and you'll be as close to 0 psi as the fuel lines alow.

The pump will only need to push the fuel out and not against the regulator.

That way you don't have to mess up the base fuel pressure you tuned on.
 
Originally posted by MNGSX
Yes.

Get the flow from before the regulator and you'll be as close to 0 psi as the fuel lines alow.

The pump will only need to push the fuel out and not against the regulator.

That way you don't have to mess up the base fuel pressure you tuned on.

Sorry let me rephrase my question. I'm not going to replum my setup right now so I'm taking the tube off of the regulator return line. With that said, will lowering the fuel pressure make the fuel exit faster? I understand why your way is faster, I just don't want to buy anymore custom fuel line fittings right now.
 
Lowering the pressure will help.

You have AN lines.

So take the line off of the FPR feed from the rail and stick that in a gas can.

Your FPR is'nt mounted direct on the rail is it?
 
No you're right. I'll probably try it. Ijust didn't want to buy anymore fittings. Thanks for the advice!
 
On more thing.

If you have a 1g cas you can leave the key in the on position and remove the CAS from the cam. Spin it by hand so the FP kicks on.

But if you tap in to bleed out the tank inbetween the regulator and rail the pump will run on its own because it is well below base pressure.

Thats the best way because it wont eff up your timing or FP settings.
 
Don't go the drain bolt way. The bolt could have a tendency to break if your in a rush :shhh: , and they are very hard to find.

Jake
 
I'm not sure if this pertains to the original poster but if you are reading this and have a 2G I have an easier way.

Take off your fuel inlet line (not return line) at the rail and hook up a hose. Take out your 2 pound back seat cushion and take off the fuel pump cover and disconnect it. Give the pump power from a battery being careful not to hook up pos/neg backward and you'll have an empty tank in a couple minutes. I like this way cause the engine doesn't have to be running and you'll get the full flow of the pump. Meaning if you have a walbro 255 or similar gas comes out very very quickly. :)
 
I figured out a way to siphon out the gas... to get around the "anti-siphon" plate/valve on the 1G, disconect the rubber hose that goes from where you put gas in the car to the gas tank, and then you can put a siphon hose in the gas tank and suck it all out.

Depending on how large your siphon hose is will determine how long this takes... I have a small siphon hose from Walmart and it took a while to drain out 3 gallons of gas :(
 
Originally posted by ~97TalonTSi~
I'm not sure if this pertains to the original poster but if you are reading this and have a 2G I have an easier way.

Take off your fuel inlet line (not return line) at the rail and hook up a hose. Take out your 2 pound back seat cushion and take off the fuel pump cover and disconnect it. Give the pump power from a battery being careful not to hook up pos/neg backward and you'll have an empty tank in a couple minutes. I like this way cause the engine doesn't have to be running and you'll get the full flow of the pump. Meaning if you have a walbro 255 or similar gas comes out very very quickly. :)

If you did an fuel pump rewire just wire a switch between the wire from the battery and the positive terminal of the relay coil.

Turning the switch on will turn on the relay which turns on the pump.
 
There is also a leak test mode where the pump turns on, all you would have to do is pull a line, and ground of the connector. The pump would pump out all the gas.

I would probably just add the 116 to 3 or 4 gallons of regular gas. If you really need octane that much you shouldnt be driving your car to the track anyways :thumb:
 
The best way in my opinion would be to drill out the gas tank drain plug and put a checkvalve type of fitting in it. One that is somewhat of a butterfly design that you screw in or out to open it up. Or if something similar to those quick oil drain kits where you replace the plug with a hose.

I've tried removng just that plug on the tank and created a large mess over my arms, the driveway black top and then my knees turning black through my pants from the black top tar.

The easiest way to keep the tank low on the way to the track is do exactly that. Keep it low, but carry a 5 gallon container of pump gas along with you in case you come close to running dry on the way down there and back. That way while you're fueling up with race gas at the track you'll have a better mix ratio with less to worry about.
 
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