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DSMpartout 1g : Bad luck on Friday 13th

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Nate Crisman

10+ Year Contributor
749
6
Nov 26, 2008
Blairstown, New_Jersey
Friday the 13th wasn't a good showing, but at least it was informative.

Run 1: 13.96 @ 97 on 2.0 60' no launch and no throttle in 1st gear. (basically just a 2nd and 3rd gear pull). wastegate spring boost. just checking shifting, getting a datalog, make sure brakes are good.
  • log shows only like 15psi of boost, but I could swear the gauge was creeping past 20. WTF.....find out I had map sensor set to GM3bar instead of AEM3.5bar. DUH...one thing I forgot to change (Im using the ecu/dsmlink from my GVR4 and just changing the tune and settings)
  • Trans feels "crunchy" going into 4th.

Run 2: 12.3 @ 111 on a 1.65. 4500rpm launch, pretty easy and smooth. lifted all gear changes. had boost set to about 21psi. car ran decently clean, mid 12 AF. I pulled 3* out of my "93 pumpgas everyday" tune to start, so I think I was running something absurd low like curve from 8* to 11*. 4 gear was VERY notchy and almost didn't go in. Air temp at TB started at 52*F and went up to 80*F (liquid ic working pretty good). But at least it was a full clean pass with a good log and everything working as it should......now it's time to start tuning

Run 3 13.1 @ 102 on 1.733.: turned up boost 2.5 full turns on mbc, Boost spiking to 27psi falling to about 23psi. Air temp is 50*F on line, 88*F at end of 4th. The car started misfiring as soon as I let the clutch out off the studderbox. It was popping and farting all down the track like on 3cyl. Car is also running hot in staging lanes...I left the line at 220*F coolant temp. We also find out the car won't go into reverse at all and needs to be pushed back out of the pit spot. not good.

  • So we gap the plugs down to .025" (they were more than .028).
  • I put another 1.5 turns on the boost controller and add 3* of timing back...basically putting the timing curve back to what I run on pumpgas everyday in the GVR4, which is a very weak curve from about 11 to 14*.
  • Figure out rad fan is wired backwards...easy fix for the staging lane heat.
  • GizmoVR4 smells gear oil, and finds a big puddle under the car coming off the xcase. I haven't launched hard enough to break anything, and we all assume it's likely the input shaft seal or xcase output shaft seal.
  • The trans doesn't shit 3-4 for crap so Im not caring much about the leak.

Run 4 13.2 @ 77: launch at 5000 but the clutch never grabs. shift 1-2....clutch slip. I forgot to run the intercooler pump in staging lanes...ait at line was 71* and hit 100* at traps. . clutch slipped all way down the track, so the log is kinda useless. Boost is all over the place, up and down with clutch load. but it felt like the engine ran much cleaner and crisp. Got locked out of 4th gear all together. The trans is also making a groaning noise when the clutch pedal is out in neutral. Won't go into reverse at all, even with engine off. shifting feels shitty in general. The car smells like horrendous burning gear oil.


so...
Frankentrans didn't work out. Im betting that the input shaft seal was bad and it leaked gear oil all over the clutch, ruining the disk. Im not going to screw with it till I come home from vacation. It didn't shift well either, so Im going to have to figure something out or use a different trans.

The air/water intercooler seems to work pretty good so long as I remember to run the pump in staging to get the core as cold as possible before going up to the line. It was in the mid 70's tonight, so most of the time during the runs, the actual AIT going into the engine is at or below ambient temp. Only sucky thing is how much the tank sweats...carpet is SOAKED on the pass side!

The car seems to eat about 1/2 gallon of E85 per pass and melted 3 bags of ice the whole night.. Im running the 950 injectors about 80% duty cycle @ 40psi base pressure and getting a mid 12 AF.

So, it was somewhat productive to figure out many of the first time issues with the car:
wrong map sensor settings
backwards wired rad fan
sweating water tank
got the boost set, fuel settings close, and timing still stupid low, but the tune is useable starting point for the next time out in september.

Sucks that the trans is crap, Ill likely swap it for another "unknown" parts car trans and cross my fingers.

Some pics during assembly:

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Fuel cell mounting, GC coilovers with "unknown" front shocks. I'm going to limit strap the front end, so the shock honestly isn't going to do anything at all.
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Bosch 044 pump. -6 lines
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Custom turbo outlet pipe:
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Evo3 16G, Evo3 manifold, punishment o2 housing.
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GizmoVR4 fabbed coolant and oil catch cans. They fit perfect!
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Excuse the poor pic quality, they were iphone pics at the track.

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Sorry to hear of the clutch misfortune. At least it's not a blown engine or worse. Set up looks killer:thumb: I'm sure it'll do ya right by the end of the year. Good luck!
 
Soooo..... you're not parting it out? What's up with the thread title?

No, Im not parting it out.

DSMpartout.com is my side business. I'v bought and parted around 16 dsm/gvr4 so far. An online junkyard so to speak.

This yellow car was built damn near 100% from used parts scavenged ROFL:hellyeah: I think the gaskets were the only new part I bought. Just about every car, I'd snag and set aside one aftermarket part for my own use. I think I ended up building this car with almost nothing in out of pocket cost.
 
Pulled the car off the trailer tonight and dropped the trans out:

  • gear oil all over the bellhousing and clutch...so that was the slipping.
  • input shaft of the trans is all "wobbly"...the bearing on the input shaft is totally wasted. The input shaft actually wore an egg shape in the bellhousing sleeve that the tob rides on. So that was the groaning sound I would hear when pushing the clutch in. The input shaft wobbling around took out the input shaft seal causing the gear oil leak.
  • I was missing the washer under the reverse switch....so that was the cause of the lockout of reverse.
  • crappy 3-4 shift I think was mostly the shifter arm hitting the intake pipe.

So with the input shaft bearing wasted, Im just going to have to swap to a different trans. I'v got a "mystery box" here that I can use, but it's a 92-94 style trans so I'd have to get yet another center diff welded as the frankentrans was 90-91 style. Wonder how long a stock center diff would hold up?:notgood:
 
Pulled the car off the trailer tonight and dropped the trans out:

  • gear oil all over the bellhousing and clutch...so that was the slipping.
  • input shaft of the trans is all "wobbly"...the bearing on the input shaft is totally wasted. The input shaft actually wore an egg shape in the bellhousing sleeve that the tob rides on. So that was the groaning sound I would hear when pushing the clutch in. The input shaft wobbling around took out the input shaft seal causing the gear oil leak.
  • I was missing the washer under the reverse switch....so that was the cause of the lockout of reverse.
  • crappy 3-4 shift I think was mostly the shifter arm hitting the intake pipe.

So with the input shaft bearing wasted, Im just going to have to swap to a different trans. I'v got a "mystery box" here that I can use, but it's a 92-94 style trans so I'd have to get yet another center diff welded as the frankentrans was 90-91 style. Wonder how long a stock center diff would hold up?:notgood:

Damn Nate. I've been running a stock center diff since I've had my car, 100% stock tranny for that matter. I wouldn't mind a 4-spider center diff, but my wallet would, so as I am with my engine for now, I'll run it till I break it and go from there. With 16g power, you may test it more than I ever have, but, I have ALOT of passes on mine with no probs.

As I said above, good luck and I hope to hear of good things before the year is out:thumb:
 
Ok, hearing that your running a stock center, I think I'm going to try it. Iv got a complete stock trans here from a parts car, I guess I'll just put it in and cross my fingers for the rest of this season. If the center breaks, I'll just pull it out and weld it solid then. But slapping in the stock trans I have sitting on the floor is the quickest way to getting the car running right away.

Besides, I'll only get to run the car maybe twice more this season since we are closing on a house this month and I have weeks of refurbishment work to do before we can move in. Basically once mid October gets here, that's the end of my free time to work on the car or go racing. (have a half a house to sheetrock, paint the entire place after sheetrocking, remove nasty carpet and install hardwood floors, tons of misc "honey-do" projects")

So plan is to run again on September 10th at Island.
 
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