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First time at the track in 2 years.

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rampridersrider

15+ Year Contributor
349
1
Dec 24, 2004
Missouri
Went to the track this past Tuesday and finally got some runs in. My night was ok, first time at the track in 2 years. First time ever launching on the studderbox. I couldn't for the life of me hit second, DSMLink showed a 1-2 shift of 1.0 second on the first and second run. Then the third run I hit second hard, but had to lift at the 1/8th mile due to knock in third. I heatsoaked my intercooler cause of hotlapping the car and never letting it cool down, dumbass me, live and learn. Now I know the limits.



First run
60' - 2.11
1/8 et - 8.8
1/8 trap - 84.5
1/4 et - 13.4
1/4 Trap - 106.8

Second run
60' - 1.88
1/8 et - 8.5
1/8 trap - 85.5
1/4 et - 13.0
Trap - 108

Third run
60' - 1.85
1/8 et - 8.2
1/8 trap - 86.2
1/4 et - 13.2
1/4 trap - 85



After reading over the time slips I think I could have easily hit a 12.6-7 at around 109-110 with a better launch and shifting. Possibly faster.

I fixed my shifting issue by replacing the rubber shifter plate bushings with metal washers and I also lubed my linkage, its much smoother now. I also already have roller bearings on the end of my linkage. Is there anything else that you could think of to possibly make my shifting easier, it just doesn't like to shift above 7k rpm. I have a new master cylinder, SS clutch line, all buffers removed, tranny is full of 75w90, only 8 months old.

My setup is:

6 bolt bottom end with unknown mileage, 2g head w/stock intake manifold and throttle body, stock head bolts, stock headgasket w/copper spray, BS removed, T3/T04E 60 trim, RNR tubular manifold, 3 in TBE, RNR 3 in 02 eliminator DP, Magnaflow 3 in high flow cat, Tial 35 mm wastegate, FP 4 inch intake, FMIC with horrible crush bent piping, 1g bov, -6 an fuel feed line from a new stock fuel filter w/banjo bolt eliminated, Aeromotive AFPR, Walbro 255 fp, 680's, DSMLink, NGK BPR7's at .28 gap, 10.5 wires, AEM Uego, ACT 2600, street disk

Thats pretty much it. The car is runnin at 21 psi, 15 degrees of timing, pump gas, flowing 39 lbs/min, no knock. IDC's are around 90%. AFR's are 10.9 at 4k and working its way to 10.3 at redline. If I lean it out anymore it will knock. Would I make more power, safer also, if I pull some timing and lean it out to around 11.0-1?

I had my rear and passenger seats removed along with my spare tire.

I want to hit a 12.5 and trap 110 on pump gas, the thought of throwing some 100 octane in and adding some timing and boost has crossed my mind, but I am unsure if my head gasket will hold. It has no issue of pushing coolant at the moment.

Are there any tips or suggestions you could give me? Try this or that? Etc.
 
Told you on STLSR to post up the logs you bum.

What are your IDCs at? If you have some room, try throwing in a couple gallons of E85 in and see if you can lean it out without knocking.
 
Lol, I would if I could. I don't own a laptop yet, I tune my car with my gf's or my buddies, and my gf is at college right now and my buddie has his laptop. So I have no access.


My IDC's are at 90%. I have only 1 small boost leak that I know of but thats from a hole in the intercooler that I don't know how to fix. I'm on empty right now cause I was gonna put about 5 gallons of 100 octane in it. If i were to put in some E85 mix, how much would I be safe to throw into the mix. Like maybe a gallon is all I'm thinking.
 
Like a 3/10 mix. Add three gallon E85 to 10 gallon gas. You dont have much injector left though.Although you do have a pretty stout fuel feed. You can get your IDC's above 100% just watch for knock.
 
Starting with a gallon or two would be all I'd recommend--90% is about as high as I would feel safe going to be honest. As far as the boost leak, if you can find out *exactly* where it is, you could have someone weld it for you--Matt would probably do it for free if he's feeling nice that day. Otherwise, you could always JB weld it.

Bring a jump drive with you next time so you can grab the logs right after you're done making them. Are you going to the track tomorrow? I was thinking of going but just found out the SMIC won't have any of that.
 
My buddy and I were gonna go, but I hear the weather might be shitty. If its nice out, then I'll be there.
 
Going slightly leaner and adding timing would lose power. 1 Degree of timing will make more power than .5 leaner afr.

110mph should come pretty easily. Hooking up the No-Lift-to-Shift should give a few MPH in itself.
 
Don't you mean going leaner and pulling timing will give me less power. I know this already, but was toying with the idea that the extra fuel needed to supress knock was "drowning" out the extra power made.

I also do not want to hook up the NLTS because I like my drivetrain to stay intact for a while. Which is why I don't try and hit 1.7 60's and I honestly shift fairly slow. I don't "drive the car". I know that with harder launching and faster shifting I could pick up .2-3 tenths alone. I just want to get a few GOOD runs in to see where the car is at. That way if someone asks what it runs I can say "12.3 at 112 without even trying that hard" etc etc.
 
Well, tomorrow looks like it's not going to happen.

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What I mean is that Timing makes more power than AFR. Run it at the AFR where you can get the most timing.

Also the NLTS makes for smoother shifting, if you don't believe me search on the Link Forums to see what people say about it.

**EDIT** Another thing that will help with the shifting if you haven't all ready done so is motor mounts.
 
While NLTS may be smoother, that doesn't mean it is easier on the transmission itself.

JackM said:
The NLTS feature will break the ring for 3/4. I wouldn't use it until you get the HD 3/4 set. It's just too hard on it.
 
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