2900lbs 1 power adder or 3150 with 2 power adders?

[compression]

there are a couple of import events i found who follow that rule that i would like to participate in. so i kinda want to build my car around the rules so i can be the best i can for the events, one being boti and another sport compact nationals.

so my question is should i reduce weight to 2900 and use turbo only ( weight is with driver )
or just weigh 3150 and use turbo and nitrous was thinking of either 100 shot or dual stage 50/50 shot for spool and would shut off leaving 50 shot for the rest of the track. i was just going to weigh the car once its finished and see how far off i was to 2900.

i removed all the blower motor, heater core and all the vents under the dash, removed all the tar off the floor removed all ac components down the every last nut bolt and line thinking of fiberglass hood and hatch (rules dont allow for lexan hatch glass but could use glass and fiberglass hatch to save a few pounds)

so if you had the choice would you weigh the 2900 1 power adder or 3150 2 power adders was thinking of something similar to a gt40 270* thrust bearing. if i do 1 power adder i think im going to go with a .58 ar turbine but if 2 power adders i can change to a 1.13 which would be very nice with the nitrous , my engine should be capable of that easily.

 

[winterftbl]

If your drag racing I say go with 2 power adders, if your autocrossing go with just turbo. Just my .02

 

[compression]

yea its drag racing, i was steering a little towards 2 power adders also, a benefit with 2900 lbs 1 power adder , less stress on the motor nearly same et ( guessing )

 

[2gGSX]

I assume you're talking about drag racing. 3150 lbs, giant turbo + spray the world at it.

 

[compression]

yea, i think you voted for 2900lbs 1 power adder though .

 

[chrish1440]

yea, i think you voted for 2900lbs 1 power adder though .

I would go for 2 power adders only if you car was an automatic. 1 power adder is all you really need unless you have a ridicoulusly large turbo. I vote for 1.

 

[talont3t4]

How much Hp and what et are you running. Unless you well into the 9's I would stick with the single power adder and reduce the stress on the drive-line.

 

[compression]

I'm building a high 9 low 10 second setup and i have a choice of different size turbine housings. The two sizes i have to choose from are .58 or 1.13 and it depends on what setup i go with because, if i go without the use of nitrous i will want the smaller, if i have nitrous i will want the bigger one, i am going to have dsmlink and i would be using the nitrous controller so that it wont kick on until after first gear probably around 40 mph ish , the anti-lag 2 step should be plenty for the launch, and again thats IF i decide to go that way.

 

[GSX_RCR]

Which setup would make more HP?

 

[twicks69]

Personally, I am a turbo-only type of person. I would stick with 1 power adder, less crap to do, less safety requirements, and less overall cost.

If you are looking for a 9-10 second car, you should be looking at doing a heck of alot more to your car first. I am not insulting you, but you are a ways off from reaching that sort of time. I am speaking from experience.

 

[compression]

my mods list isnt up to date in any way, im still not done buying all the stuff i need, thats why i wanted to get a general idea on which direction i was heading before i bought everything i needed. my car is having a 10 point cage welded in , the 8 point from dsmparts.com and then a jegs 8-10 point conversion . very nice products btw. and 274$ shipped from dsmparts and 103 shipped from jegs, plus having it welded in for 300$ so 677.00$ for a 10 point cage is a deal let me tell you , from the quotes i was getting whew bought knocked me off my feet 2000-2500$

i was also thinking with antilag 2 step and nlts i could get away with the 1.13 turbine housing and run no nitrous but i think it will be really hard to get down to that weight with the requirements and regulations they have. the cage itself weighs 120lbs i probably removed close to that in parts and my car weighed in at 3050 without me before i weigh roughly 150. so i may be stuck around the 2900-3000 lb margin (without me).

 

[compression]

Which setup would make more HP?

2 power adders would yield better horsepower ratings but honestly the 250lbs less it would be close to the same et's but i think i would go a little faster with 2 power adders (im guessing) they say every 100 lbs is a 10th of a second so 10.50 to a 10.25 just from the less weight i think the nitrous would net better results then that, but for being so close and having a lighter car means less stress for the engine, and drivetrain it would be worth the weight reduction.

 

[bumpkin]

that whole 100 pounds tenth of a second thing always got me
a car runs 13.1 drops 100 pounds and runs 13 flat
a car runs 7.1 drops a hundred pounds runs a 7 flat.....
if you got the money and the block, go with 2 power adders
i love nitrous
plus look at how many of the big dogs are runnin 2 power adders
cough cough (Shep) cough

 

[dsm dork]

Get the car running and see where it is at with the setup you want. Weight is probably one of the biggest things in racing, it's an equalizer. That's why the weight breaks are there. Less weight, car goes faster, parts last longer, etc...

I would see what the car runs on turbo and where it sits weight wise with how you want it, look at where the rest of the competition might be around and then if you think you can spray enough nitrous to make it worth the extra weight.

 

[Boo5t_Addict]

Plenty of people have run the times you're shooting for without nitrous, and have gone faster as well. Twicks69 said it best when he mentioned that having just a turbo would be less to deal with. The more you have going on, the more can/will go wrong.

 

[twicks69]

I agree with dsm_dork's response; get the car running and down the track several times. Once you shake out the cobwebs and get to be a solid driver with the car, then retune the car on the dyno, and turn up the boost.

I ended the 2006 year running 11.017 on my T4 SC6181SP at 35psi, and a best of 11.2XX on my GT4088R on 18psi.
Over the winter, I pulled around 120-150# out of the car and added an extra fuel pump.
In spring (2007), I re-tuned the car on the dyno (641awhp/567tq at 35psi), and ran the car on opening day at 22psi; it did 11.1X and 10.81 at 136mph. The next time down the track in June on 28psi, car did 10.53 and 10.41 at 139mph. By September, I pulled it down to 9.96 at 143mph at 35-38psi.
By October, I pulled my mph up to a 147mph trap on 42psi.
In November, I re-dyno'd the car and made 740awhp/696 tq on 49psi (49psi spike/settle at 42psi), maxing out the 1000cc injectors with my twin fuel pumps.

I know for a fact that the car will do easy low 9's, and will likely do in the 150-156mph range going down the track.

I went from 11's to 9's in 1 year, ONLY from making an adequate fuel system upgrade (twin pump), and raising the boost.

There is no need for nitrous; the turbo better damn well be spooled on the line on the launch. Heck, I am only using my 2-step and making ~25psi on the launch. With AEM EMS, you can make your car leave the line with 50psi if you want. Either through 2-step with anti-lag, or ignition retard, etc. My 25psi on the launch is enough to spin my slicks through 1st and 2nd gears on the track.

Also, you can always add the weight back in if you want to. Personally, I would rather be at 2900-3000# because it makes the car a heck of alot more streetable (interior, etc), and your girlfriend/wife won't bi*** at you when you drive them around when the car still has heat/ac, an exhaust, stock seats, stock seatbelts, a stereo, power windows, etc. Heck, my fiance won't even ride in my car without earplugs. She hates the race exhaust, the race harness, and the lack of heat/ac.

Keep them happy, and you will be happier reaching your times by turning up the boost.

 

[compression]

that is true, i would love an all boost application my main concern was, will i be able to get to 2900 with me in it , without major chassis reconstruction. and even if i did will i net better times, i'm mainly concerned about competition, and i think ill pick up a bit of time with the nitrous , but i have decided i am going to spray some nitrous because of the strict policies , you can weigh 2900 but you have to have all glass and no cutting of your floor, blah blah from there i will see where im (weight ,power and et wise) at and i may decide to spray through all gears or just take some weight out instead , as of right now im going to be spraying 100 shot direct port for spool only , having the nitrous shut off at around 25-26 psi depending on my boost setting. but from there i will decide which way is best.


and how much larger exactly is a gt4088 then a T4 SC6181SP to make that much of a difference?.

that whole 100 pounds tenth of a second thing always got me
a car runs 13.1 drops 100 pounds and runs 13 flat
a car runs 7.1 drops a hundred pounds runs a 7 flat.....
if you got the money and the block, go with 2 power adders
i love nitrous
plus look at how many of the big dogs are runnin 2 power adders
cough cough (Shep) cough

i believe shep is down to 1 power adder.

 

[twicks69]

that is true, i would love an all boost application my main concern was, will i be able to get to 2900 with me in it , without major chassis reconstruction. and even if i did will i net better times, i'm mainly concerned about competition, and i think ill pick up a bit of time with the nitrous , but i have decided i am going to spray some nitrous because of the strict policies , you can weigh 2900 but you have to have all glass and no cutting of your floor, blah blah from there i will see where im (weight ,power and et wise) at and i may decide to spray through all gears or just take some weight out instead , as of right now im going to be spraying 100 shot direct port for spool only , having the nitrous shut off at around 25-26 psi depending on my boost setting. but from there i will decide which way is best.


and how much larger exactly is a gt4088 then a T4 SC6181SP to make that much of a difference?.




i believe shep is down to 1 power adder.

As for shep being on 1 or 2 power adders; in the 2006 season he did runs with and without the nitrous. He did not race the car in the 2007 season.

As for the SC6181 vs. the GT4088R, the SC61 uses a 61.4mm inducer/82.0mm exducer/56-trim compressor wheel with a P-trim "stage 5" exhaust wheel with a 270 degree journal bearing (thrust bearing) center cartridge. The GT4088R uses a 63.5mm inducer/88.0mm exducer/52-trim compressor wheel with a 77.0mm/78-trim exhaust wheel with a GT CHRA ball bearing ballistic center cartridge. Bigger, more efficient wheels flow more.

 

[JOEY A]

My buddy had a 2G once with a nitrous setup


18G, with boltons and HKS 272s with a 125 shot


That thing hauled ass, we took out a stroker 2.3 car with a big turbo running alot of boost and quit a few spraying cammed LS1 cars...


DSM with spray= Haul ass

 

[JOEY A]

I agree with dsm_dork's response; get the car running and down the track several times. Once you shake out the cobwebs and get to be a solid driver with the car, then retune the car on the dyno, and turn up the boost.

I ended the 2006 year running 11.017 on my T4 SC6181SP at 35psi, and a best of 11.2XX on my GT4088R on 18psi.
Over the winter, I pulled around 120-150# out of the car and added an extra fuel pump.
In spring (2007), I re-tuned the car on the dyno (641awhp/567tq at 35psi), and ran the car on opening day at 22psi; it did 11.1X and 10.81 at 136mph. The next time down the track in June on 28psi, car did 10.53 and 10.41 at 139mph. By September, I pulled it down to 9.96 at 143mph at 35-38psi.
By October, I pulled my mph up to a 147mph trap on 42psi.
In November, I re-dyno'd the car and made 740awhp/696 tq on 49psi (49psi spike/settle at 42psi), maxing out the 1000cc injectors with my twin fuel pumps.

I know for a fact that the car will do easy low 9's, and will likely do in the 150-156mph range going down the track.

I went from 11's to 9's in 1 year, ONLY from making an adequate fuel system upgrade (twin pump), and raising the boost.

There is no need for nitrous; the turbo better damn well be spooled on the line on the launch. Heck, I am only using my 2-step and making ~25psi on the launch. With AEM EMS, you can make your car leave the line with 50psi if you want. Either through 2-step with anti-lag, or ignition retard, etc. My 25psi on the launch is enough to spin my slicks through 1st and 2nd gears on the track.

Also, you can always add the weight back in if you want to. Personally, I would rather be at 2900-3000# because it makes the car a heck of alot more streetable (interior, etc), and your girlfriend/wife won't bi*** at you when you drive them around when the car still has heat/ac, an exhaust, stock seats, stock seatbelts, a stereo, power windows, etc. Heck, my fiance won't even ride in my car without earplugs. She hates the race exhaust, the race harness, and the lack of heat/ac.

Keep them happy, and you will be happier reaching your times by turning up the boost.

A GF is not a wife, they can go kick rocks for all I care......Unless your married a women shouldnt tell you what to do, even married no one should be dictating to each other

 

[JOEY A]

that is true, i would love an all boost application my main concern was, will i be able to get to 2900 with me in it , without major chassis reconstruction. and even if i did will i net better times, i'm mainly concerned about competition, and i think ill pick up a bit of time with the nitrous , but i have decided i am going to spray some nitrous because of the strict policies , you can weigh 2900 but you have to have all glass and no cutting of your floor, blah blah from there i will see where im (weight ,power and et wise) at and i may decide to spray through all gears or just take some weight out instead , as of right now im going to be spraying 100 shot direct port for spool only , having the nitrous shut off at around 25-26 psi depending on my boost setting. but from there i will decide which way is best.


and how much larger exactly is a gt4088 then a T4 SC6181SP to make that much of a difference?.




i believe shep is down to 1 power adder.

See thats were it should end there, gutted you car to resectable weight that will help you but in a car seeing alot of street time. Skip that lexon window crap, and removing saftey stuff trust me ive been there with my Z28..


My car weighed in at 2,900 pounds with a full tank and me in the car it was very light!

No wipers,ac,heat,ps,air bags,interior,one alum seat,dumped exhaust,abs,defroster gone,radio, front and rear bumper beams, blah blah on weld rims

Full boltons, with a 4.10 gear, and QAL drag coil overs, I loved that car! When your really light at that extreme its shocking how quick it was with boltons...

This was a 2000 Z28 6speed LS1

 

[xdxoxuxgx]

I voted 1 power adder, I always believed that the best way to go faster is to lose some weight, and I just don't like the idea of nitrous.

 

[JOEY A]

I voted 1 power adder, I always believed that the best way to go faster is to lose some weight, and I just don't like the idea of nitrous.

Sure but spray is great, dont have to be so close minded in good setups