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First Time at the Track

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yellowkyd278

15+ Year Contributor
124
0
Sep 28, 2004
Los Angeles, California
So I went to the track for the first time today at California Speedway and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit disappointed. Here's the run data:

1. R/T: .763 2. R/T: -.284 3. R/T: .599
06': 1.972 06': 2.059 06': 2.021
330: 5.811 330: 5.830 330: 5.900
1/8: 8.927 1/8: 9.129 1/8: 9.021
MPH: 80.74 MPH: 77.12 MPH: 80.83
1000: 11.514 1000: 11.806 1000: 11.616
1/4: 13.762 1/4: 14.096 1/4: 13.866
MPH: 98.97 MPH: 94.71 MPH: 100.14


Stutterbox was set to 5k and I shifted at approximately 7200 each gear.

With the mods I have I'm told I'm "supposed" to be trapping low to mid 12's. They're in my profile but here's a quick summary:
dsmlink stutterbox, evo316g, 650cc, 190 rewired, 272/272's, 100% meth injection, hahn's fmic.
I didn't go cheap on the other supporting mods either and they're all there. The cars dyno tuned on a mustang for 288 whp.

So is this more of a hardware issue or do I just need more practice? Constructive criticism is much appreciated
 
how much were you boosting? you mph is to slow you need to trap around 107 to be 12.5 and lower and atleast a 1.8 reacton time. the numbers tell everything 100mph pass is a 13.5 in the 1/4
 
Here's the dyno sheet:
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Well it is your frist time at the track. You dont need to bang redline every gear, try shifting a lil lower in 3rd like at 6800 instead, cause the evo turbo dont make massive boost at redline. You make max power @ 6000-6300 not at 7000! Work on that plus your tune, all those mods at 22 psi? sound like something is on the way out or the person who tuned it left it at a safe mode or cant tune and it looks like the tune is set for 16 psi not 22. Next time shift at 1st 7200, 2nd, 7200, 3rd 6800, 4th 6500, cause after 6500 you start to lose power.
 
What looks wrong with the tune? It looks correct and a number of people have looked it over. The pressure holds at 22 psi. I'll try the shifting thing but will that really make over a second of a difference?
 
Yes and no, It may only knock off a few tenths off but reving your motor to where its got no power is useless, just cause the tach says 8k dont mean you have power past 7k. The big thing is to work on your 0-60 time and nail the 1-2-3 shift. 1st and 2nd is acceleration which carrys over to your overall time and is critical as the frist 60 usually determines your 1/4 time.
 
Yes and no, It may only knock off a few tenths off but reving your motor to where its got no power is useless, just cause the tach says 8k dont mean you have power past 7k. The big thing is to work on your 0-60 time and nail the 1-2-3 shift. 1st and 2nd is acceleration which carrys over to your overall time and is critical as the frist 60 usually determines your 1/4 time.

Personally, this technique has made me slower and has given me slower times...both on my T25 and current T28. I dont recommend it.
 
Also is it possible your clutch has started to go out since you had it on the dyno? The clutch slipping a little can hurt.
 
Something's wrong. I have basically the same mods (no DSMlink) and I trap 111 and do 12.5. Also dynoed 310awhp at 21psi..

Tuning? Boost leaking? clutch?
 
My evo 3 at 20psi laid down 270whp on a mustang dyno and trapped 110mph.

1 low cylinder owns me :coy: But after I actually had something to tune with other than an fpr I got it up to 109 and probably could have done better but I was maxing my map sensor and it was cutting ignition. :( Also 6cm 16g :)

What I don't get is how he has more power than you made but can't even trap close to you. Something is wierd there.
 
Thanks for everyones input. How does this sound as a plan of attack.

1. It looks like there's a boost leak somewhere like some of you have said. That'd explain the low lb/min. I'll do a test sometime this weekend.

2. I bought stiff plastic line from Home Depot to route the methanol from the back reservoir to the injector. An order for Nylon tubing from McMaster should be coming in this weekend. I'll replace that too. Maybe there's a kink in the line preventing the methanol which would help explain the knock.

3. I got a shitty tank of Exxon two weeks ago which basically caused instant knock to 10 degrees the second I hit full throttle. Next time I fuel up I'll empty the entire tank first to make sure it's all drained out.

4. Looks like I'll have to check the wastegate actuator. Anyone know how to check if its blowing open too soon?

Then I'll go from there. Bottom line, the low lb/min doesn't seem like a tuning problem so that needs to be addressed first. What do you guys think?
 
Yea hopefully you found your problem. i trapped 110 on my big 16g on pump. with my new cams im looking to trap 120 on race with a few more pounds of boost and alot more timing.
 
looks like you got your car tuned by sean as well. he did my car too. not bad for a 16g.

something people didnt seem to mention, your 60' times. 1.9 and 2.0

the first time i went to the track was was doing 14.4 with a 2.0 60'. by the end of the night i was out of the hole with a 1.80 60' and that dropped my e.t. to 13.6. so work on your launch. and if you want to shift at 7k, cam gears are your friend. my powerband ends right where yours does
 
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