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clutch slipped bad on launch

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98gst62

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
May 21, 2004
?..., Washington
My first run the clutch felt fine, but the second run i got the tires a little warmer and when i launched my car just crawled while i shifted through the gears rapidly, and all the way down the track i could smell burned clutch and still now two days later. do i need a new stronger clutch?
 
98gst62 said:
My first run the clutch felt fine, but the second run i got the tires a little warmer and when i launched my car just crawled while i shifted through the gears rapidly, and all the way down the track i could smell burned clutch and still now two days later. do i need a new stronger clutch?

Based on your mods, an ACT 2100, or equivalent will do just fine. The burned smell generally means that the friction surface has been glazed smooth and will no longer hold the what you're trying to throw at it, so power slipping through the drivetrain. While you're replacing the clutch, you may also want to consider an aftermarket flywheel, or you can have stock unit stepped at a machine shop. It would be a good idea to also get an OEM throwout bearing.

For break in on the new unit, lay off the boost and don't shift above 3500 RPM for a period of 300-500 miles and you should be fine.

Hope that helps,

Andy
 
Thank you guys for the great info! i was thinking about an ACT clutch but havent really heard anything great about them and was aiming toward a centerforce dual friction and an xact flywheel. let me know if thats good or bad. thanks again!
 
98gst62 said:
Thank you guys for the great info! i was thinking about an ACT clutch but havent really heard anything great about them and was aiming toward a centerforce dual friction and an xact flywheel. let me know if thats good or bad. thanks again!

I have an ACT2100 with the XACT Chromoly and I'm happy with it thus far. It grabs well enough to allow for 1.7 60' times on a consistent basis, but it doesn't grab so hard that you can mash drivetrain parts. It's your call, but I think you'll be fine with either the CFDF or the ACT.

Glad we could help,

Andy
 
There are more clutches out there than just ACT.... The south bend full disk feramic would be good on a GST. It is'nt as grabby as a puck and with a low pressure pressure plate even nicer... A good match on a FWD..
 
hey guys my clutch was slipping on my buddies 96 tsi... we bled the clutch and the slipping was gone! Try bleeding the clutch first and see if that works before you buy a new clutch... also you could have a leak in your slave or master cylinder, thats what was wrong with mine and i just put in a dual centerfold clutch so i knew it wasent the clutch... hope that helps a little bit...
 
BREAKING IN THE CLUTCH...

single most important thing...hahah, yeah right. I installed my brand new from the factory act 2600 clutch on a resurfaced flywheel, took it down my driveway, launched the piss out of it with literally no miles on the clutch at all, not even .1 miles. Took it to the track, ran it a bunch of times, and to this day, no slippage and it will still hold all the power I throw at it. On shifts hard enough, I can still make my whipers come on :)
 
blue92laser said:
BREAKING IN THE CLUTCH...

single most important thing...hahah, yeah right. I installed my brand new from the factory act 2600 clutch on a resurfaced flywheel, took it down my driveway, launched the piss out of it with literally no miles on the clutch at all, not even .1 miles. Took it to the track, ran it a bunch of times, and to this day, no slippage and it will still hold all the power I throw at it. On shifts hard enough, I can still make my whipers come on :)

Just for the record If you have a street disk this is not the way to break a clutch in if you have a puck disk then you can break it in the way above.
 
NDgsx said:
:confused: That's how I break mine in, never had a problem.


You can break any clutch in roughly, thats not a problem. Just don't expect it to last 50,000 miles. Really, if your expecting 50k from your clutch your should be driving a honda or other non-performace car.
 
DSMJim said:
You can break any clutch in roughly, thats not a problem. Just don't expect it to last 50,000 miles. Really, if your expecting 50k from your clutch your should be driving a honda or other non-performace car.
With all due respect, i dont find that statement accurate at all. The stocker in my car started slipping around 125,000, now i have more mods with a stronger clutch and i really doubt that it wont hold up for at least half the time my stocker did.
 
Denji said:
With all due respect, i dont find that statement accurate at all. The stocker in my car started slipping around 125,000, now i have more mods with a stronger clutch and i really doubt that it wont hold up for at least half the time my stocker did.

Lol, make some real power and a few trips to the track then come back and tell me that again.

What you "think" is accurate and how many clutchs have been on my car through 300+ hard launches/passes at the drag strip tell me different. My ACT 2100 failed after 11,000miles however it took almost 100+ low 12 second passes with many 1.7 60ft's on it. So the chances of seeing 50k is pretty slim. If you drive/shift like a ####y you will get 125k on your clutch.
 
DsmJim are you still using the competition clutch 2300? If so how is it holding up?
 
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