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1st gear tiring spinning

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Laser0385

20+ Year Contributor
418
1
Aug 9, 2002
Seattle, Washington
Okay, I have yet to take my new DSM to the track (90 FWD turbo Laser), but I have started to run it harder on the streets. Nothing crazy just seeing the potential it has for myself. So when I'm in first at about 3,000 RPM's is usually when I go from like gently applying pressure to the gas to the floor, unfortunately, the front tires don't like when I do that and start spinning all the way through first and even scratch into 2nd and 3rd. I need ideas or solutions to this, because if I can't control the HP I have now I'm screwed when I make major mods. Also, my tranny seems to grind with quick high-RPM shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. Thanks for the help, track bound soon, need help.
 
limited slip diff or suspension work or sticky tires.

otherwise you'll just have to learn to get used to it, it's not too bad after you do it enough.
 
I don't have the bank to that kind of work yet so I guess I'd better get used to it. Any ideas about the tranny?
 
Don't mash the gas to the floor!!!!

Slowly slip the clutch out and as your doing that slowly apply the gas. You have to find the point where your car is just starting to spin the tires a little bit but not doing a burnout;) You will have to accept the fact that maybe you can't put ti to the floor in first:D

Just keep practicing and you'll get the hang of it
 
Launching isn't that bad for me, but I need to be able to pull on people in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd with my torque and low-end horsepower cause they always get me in 4th. Any ideas on the grinding? Need new tranny? Cost?
 
dial in about 2/3 throttle at 4000rpm then slip the clutch through most of first. if done right the revs should spin up to about 5000 rpm then bog slightly. when shifting to second do it hard and dump the clutch, but you'll need to feather the throttle from here on out.

this gets me very consistent 2.3 and 2.4 60' times on useless eagle rsa's
 
Do any of you guys have any ideas what could be wrong wit my transmission though?
 
alot of people will claim that you need new synchros when in actuality its the bearings starting to move and let the shafts inside the transmission move. that's exactly what was wrong with my old tranny, and it got to the point that the shafts moved so far one time that i snapped off a shift fork.
 
the grinding usually is caused because of the wear on synchros.. sometimes changing the tranny fluid to a different better fluid like BM Synchro Shift or GM Synchro Mesh would make it easier to shift..

in regards to keeping your wheels from spinning, the only real answer is learning how to control your foot with the pedal.. practice makes perfect :)
 
Ok, so I should get some transmission fluid. But what would it cost to replace the bearings and/or the synchros?
 
ask around in your local dsm club.

one of the guys in ours is a dodge and hyundai tech (ironically hyundai probably uses more 4g63's than mitsu does) and he is currently rebuilding mine for the second time. last time i got all new bearings and a phantom grip limited slip for only $700. TRE starts at $850.
 
you gotta rev a few times to get spool up, then slip the clutch in gently. i learned to launch by using my car a few times to deliver pizza
 
Damn, yeah my transmission is still grinding hella time to time in 1st to 2nd at "high" RPM's. When I say "high" and grinding, I'm talking about 4,500 RPM's, to me that is relative low RPM. So it's gonna cost me about $1,600 to get my transmission fixed well enough it won't do this crap again? Got any ideas where to get it?
 
you oughta be able to buy a brand new one for that much. i'd contact tre or bm tranny or shephard racing about tranny rebuilds.
 
Do you have the websites and specific transmissions that you would recommend?
 
How long do you think my transmission will hold up with how it is right now?
 
should be fine so long as you take it easy on the high rpm shifting. that's what killed mine. shifting to third at 7000rpm and it snapped the shift fork and left me with neutral and what appeared to be 4th gear.
 
So as long as I shift before redline it should last a while if not almost forever?
 
well without knowing the exact condition of the innards of the thransmission i can't guarantee it, but i would feel safe in saying that so long as you shift slowly, lightly, and at a decent rpm that it will be fine.
 
Are there any places that would give me money for my old turbo when I buy a new one from them? If so, where?
 
buying turbos? i'd advise selling it on dsmtrader.com to recoup your money.
 
Okay, I'm looking to pick up a 18G turbo I think, because I think that a 20G would be too big to drive on the street. Do you have any ideas for a good, either sleeve or ball bearing turbo for a great price, mainly because my DSM is becoming expensive, but the turbo would be worth it.
 
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