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Tork specks for ARP head studs on 4g63??

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Turbotalon25

10+ Year Contributor
98
1
Aug 30, 2008
Peoria, Illinois
Ok here is my problem. I just replaced my head on my 4g63 turbo tsi (95).
I sprayed the 2 layer head gasket with copper spray, and installed ARP head studs.
I used the DSM manual and did what it said to tork it down. First tork too 58flb's then losen all the way, then tork to 15 flb's and a half turn past 15flb's. Now it seems my head gasket is leaking oil...... Is there a differnt tork speck for ARP head stud's or is there a better idea??? Please help me out. Thank you.:talon:
 
Come on man it was in the manual I know alot about my car and have owned over 7 dsm's. I was just asking a question because I lost my paper work for my ARP head studs and didn't know there recomended spec's. Now I do so its no longer a problem. Besides ARP dosn't recomend you lube there studs or use any type of lock tight or oil's on there studs. The 15 flb's is what the haynes manual said to go to and then a half turn past that. Section 2B-2 in the haynes manual if you don't belive me. So yah I think I can work on my own car.... LOL
 
First off it's torque not tork.

I always torque my ARP's to 90ftlbs

Do a three step torque process. Torque all head studs to 30ftlbs. Then, torque all of them to 60ftlbs. Then finish all of them off at 90ftlbs.

15ftlbs is simply not enough.

Besides ARP dosn't recomend you lube there studs or use any type of lock tight or oil's on there studs.

Yes!! ARP does recommend the use of their supplied ARP Moly Lube.
 
Besides ARP dosn't recomend you lube there studs or use any type of lock tight or oil's on there studs.
All ARP main and head studs come with molly assembly lube. The spec sheet that comes with the studs says use the molly lube, or use a 10w-30 motor oil, using different specs for the different lubes.

The 15 flb's is what the haynes manual said to go to and then a half turn past that. Section 2B-2 in the haynes manual if you don't belive me. So yah I think I can work on my own car.... LOL
Page 3-37 in my Chiltons manual says: 65-72 ft-lbs for a cold engine, and when checking a torque spec on a warm engine it should be: 72-80 ft lbs. If your Haynes manual says 15 ft-lbs, thats a typo that will cost many people lots of money.
 
Yah sorry I can't spell some time's I just spell it the way it sounds. Anyways, like I said I didn't have my paper work for the ARP studs and second there was no lube with the studs, I also called ARP and they said "not to use lube". I don't know, I was just going bye what they said on the phone. So thank you for the help. I torqued the head to 90 ft lb's and now its running alot better and the oil pressure is back up were it should be. The only other problem is crappy Idel at under 1500rpm.....LOL "this is going to be a fun day with my DSM....LOL
 
Its alright man nothing wrong with trying, your just trying to learn no need for criticism cause you made a dumb mistake. I have a friend in Erie PA who is running 10s an pushing for nines and he told me to torque the studs to 100ft pounds. He has been doing this since before i had a car so ill listen to him an as for the lube i have used that shit they give you from arp all it is, is anti seize. After i ran out of that i used a few drops of oil just as long as when you install the studs into the block you do not try to over tighten the stud itself.
 
Its alright man nothing wrong with trying, your just trying to learn no need for criticism cause you made a dumb mistake. I have a friend in Erie PA who is running 10s an pushing for nines and he told me to torque the studs to 100ft pounds. He has been doing this since before i had a car so ill listen to him an as for the lube i have used that shit they give you from arp all it is, is anti seize. After i ran out of that i used a few drops of oil just as long as when you install the studs into the block you do not try to over tighten the stud itself.


Thanks for understanding. Its good to know that there are DSM'ers out there that just take the time to understand. I also called ARP back and they told me that the last person I talked to missunder stood what I was asking about the lube. Thats why he told me not to use anything "meaning other than ARP lube". Thanks again. :thumb:
 
I torqued the head to 90 ft lb's and now its running alot better and the oil pressure is back up were it should be.

FYI

If you were running it and leaking oil at 15lbs of torque, and then just re-torqued it properly, you may have issues down the road due to the HG being oil-soaked...depending on what type of HG, where it leaked, and how long/hard it was run at the improper torque.
 
Come on man it was in the manual I know alot about my car and have owned over 7 dsm's. I was just asking a question because I lost my paper work for my ARP head studs and didn't know there recomended spec's. Now I do so its no longer a problem. Besides ARP dosn't recomend you lube there studs or use any type of lock tight or oil's on there studs. The 15 flb's is what the haynes manual said to go to and then a half turn past that. Section 2B-2 in the haynes manual if you don't belive me. So yah I think I can work on my own car.... LOL

Know a lot eh? I think it's pretty logical to assume 15 ft*lbs of TORQUE is not enough for turbo engines. Hell I torque my oil pan bolt 17 ft*lbs.

I think moly lube should be used. ARP moly lube to be exact. If not then 10W-30. It said on my manual to go from 30 to 60 and to final torque it down to 80 with ARP moly lube. Final torque of 85 with 10W-30.
 
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