4 bolt rear end specs?

[ASZRAEL1266]

We all know that a 4 bolt is stronger then a 3 bolt but does any one know how much more TQ or HP a 4 bolt can handle and how much thiker are the spiles that lead into the diff? I have snaped 3 rear axels on my 3 bolt and it always breaks the spline . Also is there anything stronger then a 4 bolt out there to buy?

 

[Beemer]

Look around for a 1994 and up thunderbird rear end. It is the same IRS system they decided to make a big deal about when they put it on the mustang cobra years later. It takes some hellish mods, and custom axles, hubs, etc, but it is probably the strongest rear end out there that is affordable and even has a remote chance of fitting. It isn't horsepower that snaps axles, its TORQUE. Snapping the drivers side rear too, aren't ya, but the pass side never breaks? Tell me you still have your viscous coupler... The vc eliminator seems to encourage that axle to break even more, as the vc acts like a shock absorber when ya dump the clutch. Try feathering the clutch a bit off the line and you won't break axles so much. I launch at six grand, but feather the clutch for the first 25-30 feet. Kills my 60' time (best is 2.0 on a stock gvr4) but even on my 2 eclipse gsx's (1990's) that I beat to death on the track, I feather it a bit. I use a six puck unsprung hub on a stock pp for now, and due to the shuddering, if you're under 400 hp, get the sprung hub for the street, with your choice of pp. If you continually launch really hard, you don't gain a whole lot, but you will destroy the tranny and break axles for your efforts. I'd rather raise my dial in a bit or lose by a tenth or two and still be able to drive home at the end of the night. Now if you have a truck and trailer the car, disregard everything I said, but for a street car, just feather the clutch a bit to around 30 feet and you should see the axle breakage go way down.
dave