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Parts list 2g rebuild

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PrimerPLus

10+ Year Contributor
1,160
20
Jul 28, 2011
Tokyo, Asia
Well this is a bummer because I recently did a semi rebuild of my motor last summer. But did not replace internals in the block or head. So now my rings are bad and I am going to be putting together a list of parts I need so I can have some fun this summer doing this. :ohdamn:

So what I was looking for was recommended parts that are not super expensive.
I DD my car and I have always had the goal of 400hp. I plan on keeping this goal as my parts I currently have on the car compliment this goal.

So what will I need since I am going all the way from crank to the head.

I would like to upgrade the rods and pistons, overbore as well.
Obviously new rings. What else is a must and good idea for bottom end?
Oil pump?

Top end I would like to get new springs, valves, should I go over with those 1mm?
New cams 272/272 I am not positive those are necessary for 400hp.

Basically I have a lot of Like new parts on the car. Less than a 2000 miles on most of them.

I want it to be a good healthy motor that will get me to 400hp.
Let me know what I should put on my list.
I will be doing all the work myself with some help from my brother etc.
I will have plenty of time and I got some money to spend but I don't want to blow it all LOL.

Well thanks for the help guys. I look forward to seeing what all I should get :thumb:
 
Don't even bother trying to get rings from your local parts stores ; you won't find them. I just went through that. Either order Total Seal # 3394 or order PR110 from RockAuto. The only other option I found was paying nearly $300 for a set of OEM rings from the stealership.

I wouldn't worry about 1mm O/S valves. That's way too much work for little to no gain at that level.
 
Thanks for the heads up.

Do you think it wise to get eagle rods and weisco pistons? Or evo 9 rods and pistons? Or keep my oem ones?
 
Thanks for the heads up.

Do you think it wise to get eagle rods and weisco pistons? Or evo 9 rods and pistons? Or meep my oem ones?

dont get eagle rods, evo 9 rods and pistons would be a nice upgrade, you'll need a, way to time though. Evo.8/9 CR is 9.5:1, the evo rods are the strongest 7 bolt rods. Pluss you can polish and shot peen them to eliminate stress risers and strengthen them.
 
A way to time: like a timing light? Or other. Polishing and shot peen whats that. Something I can do or a machine shop does.

Also what else do I need to get for my rebuild?
 
A way to time: like a timing light? Or other. Polishing and shot peen whats that. Something I can do or a machine shop does.

Also what else do I need to get for my rebuild?

I meant a way to tune sorry. and polished like you would on intake ports on a head. take off all a casting mark make it smooth, and I'll explain shoy peening when I stop driving LOL.
or leave it up to Google http://www.google.com/search?q=shot...urce=mobilesearchapp-vs&channel=iss#itp=open0. I'd recommend getting a machine shop to do it for you
 
Forget the 1mm valves you won't need then anytime soon, go to mizumo auto for a gasket set. Get a kevalar timing belt and balance shaft belt. Get rings from mizumo auto (ebay) get NPR rings not NRP. NPR is oem, if you over bore new pistons will be needed. If you know how to tune out have agood tuner near I suggest going with a higher compression ratio or just get new over bore evo9 pistons which are 9.5:1 I believe. Or 9:1? Can't remember. But itll be better all around really.
 
Alright ill deff. Look into the evo 9 piston and rods. If I go that route ill need to over bore right?

So after the rings pistons and rods ill need to get crank cleaned polished, get block cleaned hot tanked, should I replace anything like freeze plugs bearings other?

For the head im looking into some new cams272/272 possibly new beehive springs new oem valves and valve seals.

Or should I keep a stock head but just get it magna fluxes pressure tested and replace whats needed.
Also will I need to get my rotaating assembly balanced if I go with the evo 9 rods and pistons?
 
Ok, so I have been searching and searching. Is there any reason it would be smart to go with the evo 9 pistons/rods instead of say Eagle rods and Weisco pistons. Other then the fact that I can get the setup of evo9 from thedmsgravyard less than half the cost?
It looks like the evo 9 in the dsm has 8.3 CR, which I believe is less than stock.
However I think they are use to seeing 20psi stock in the evo 9. They are also proven to 600hp+ Right?
 
First thing is check the "Marketplace" tab and supporting vendor reviews for the dsmgraveyard, or for that fact, ANY supporting vendor or Freelancer or member feedback.

Before you order pistons, you need to have the block checked out and rough board to size

Then order pistons

Now the block can be finished honed to size and have PTW set.
 
Oh so I shouldnt buy any pistons until I get my blocked checked? I will probably get my blocked bored .020 over just because it has 113k miles on it. Also Yes I know about dsmgraveyards reviews. So if I can find a cheaper alternative id me all ears.
 
Well that's all well and good you want to bore the block .020 But how do you know it has not already been bored .020? You may have to hone to .030 or even bore to .040

I have had blocks come in that were .010 from the factory before, and more than one come in that the customer thinking his block was STD and hand me the over size pistons only to have to return them because the block was already bored before.

About the only parts you can buy before tear down and inspection is gaskets, timing belt, water pump, oil pump.

Pistons, rings and bearings should be bought after inspection and machining.
 
Ok looks like the Evo pistons and rods are not really a recommended thing to run.

So here is my list for short block, I have a plan setup for my head so that's in check.

For short block. Let me know if this is a good choice or if I should change something out.

1) Eagle Rods
2) Pistons - What brand I haven't decided. (Manley, Weisco, JE) 8.5:1 CR
3)ACL main and Rod bearings, (should I get acl thrust washer set too?)
4) Arp rod, main, flywheel
5) Polish crank
6) Hot tank block, replace freeze plugs if needed, deck if needed, hone,over bore if needed
7) Have rotating assembly balanced

Missing anything, change anything?
 
Just go ahead and change the freeze plugs, they are cheap enough, plus the water jacket of the block can be cleaned out better with the plugs removed before the block is put in the tank.

Just have the block decked ask for .005 or less to be milled off.

Have the balls in the rod throws of the crank removed, a tig will be needed for that.
 
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