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ATF engine flush?

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awdtalon4451

15+ Year Contributor
521
0
Aug 23, 2007
Ocean springs, Mississippi
Not sure if this is the proper place for this but anyhow. I was told by Nissian that I needed to flush the engine on my 03 Maxima as im fixing to roll over 100k. They wanted $220 plus fluid fees for this so I told them no that I would look into it.
Anyways ive heard of people adding a quart of ATF to the oil and letting it run at idle for about 20 min. Then dropping the fluid and changing the filter. Supposedly it cleans exceptionally well. Has anyone else used the method or should I just try out Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil?
 
Gimmick if you regularly change your oil you do not need to flush your motor.
 
Gimmick if you regularly change your oil you do not need to flush your motor.

True but I just bought the vehicle and im not sure about the previous owners. Im getting a P0021 code for intake camshaft to advanced and one of the causes is oil build up around the cam sensor and or solenoid.
 
I used it in my stock car when I barely bought it, It was terrible dirty and I add some ATF oil and let it idle and I reviled it a couple of times and changed the oil right away, I did this every time I did the oil change and after the 3th oil change it was all shiny and perfectly clean.

You will be able to see if the internal is dirty, Just remove the oil cap and look inside, It will tell you how dirty it is, if it's not that dirty, doing this only one time will be enough, Just do the change oil more frequently and you will have no more problems with that.
 
alot of factors to consider here, If you think your engine is gunked up you first need to find out if it really is gunked up. Not just do random things to it just because thats what it seemed at the moment.

Secondly 100K is nothing on a daily driver nissan. many people will say thats when they just broke-in so to speak.

If you want to clean carbon deposits and loosen sludge Just pour seafoam in the oil, it will break down carbon deposits and clean old grimy oil buildup but you must know that on older engines this is a bad idea because carbon deposits and buildup actually helps engine perform by "filling in" wear and gaps were otherwise bearings would have failed (but thats a compound problem). By cleaning it all out you may cause more problems and leaks than fixes on old engines.
If A engine has been correctly maintained it will never see any sludge and only minor gunk buildup, and with regular scheduled maintenance you should never need to flush an engine.

But again Your engine is still good. A flush is not required and the best thing you could do is simply change the oil a few times in a row and call it a day.
 
alot of factors to consider here, If you think your engine is gunked up you first need to find out if it really is gunked up. Not just do random things to it just because thats what it seemed at the moment.

Secondly 100K is nothing on a daily driver nissan. many people will say thats when they just broke-in so to speak.

If you want to clean carbon deposits and loosen sludge Just pour seafoam in the oil, it will break down carbon deposits and clean old grimy oil buildup but you must know that on older engines this is a bad idea because carbon deposits and buildup actually helps engine perform by "filling in" wear and gaps were otherwise bearings would have failed (but thats a compound problem). By cleaning it all out you may cause more problems and leaks than fixes on old engines.
If A engine has been correctly maintained it will never see any sludge and only minor gunk buildup, and with regular scheduled maintenance you should never need to flush an engine.

But again Your engine is still good. A flush is not required and the best thing you could do is simply change the oil a few times in a row and call it a day.

I'm agree with you, Perhaps to me, miles on an engine doesn't say much about how dirty the internals are (except combustion chamber), a very bad maintenance on an engine will build up so much gum.
However, I am totally agree that is better to make sure that the engine is dirty enough to proceed.
 
Some mechanics will do two quarts of oil, quart of kerosene and a quart of ATF mix after a drain.

Put the pan plug back in, throw in the mix.

Let it idle for 15min then drain and filter change.

They manage to gain a few ponies on that flush since it cleaned all the inners and rid some of the varnish buildup.

I'll throw in some ATF before a change and on idle only, but only when I feel it's drastically necessary.

As mentioned above: if the motor is in great shape with normal looking dark brown oil, flushing isn't needed.

-DSM
 
Let me guess... You have the QR25 engine, a 4cyl DOHC.

I know how these engines fail in 3 ways.

The cat that is built into the e-mani, back flows into the combustion chamber, and causes excessive wear at the top of the bore and kills the rings.

The bolt on balance shaft box in the bottom end fails and makes the engine sound like it has rod knock in a bad way.

The vanos gets gummed up and bends valves. <--- this sounds like where your is heading.


Pull the Vanos actuator, It is in the font cover IIRC, and clean, degunk or replace.
 
Let me guess... You have the QR25 engine, a 4cyl DOHC.

I know how these engines fail in 3 ways.

The cat that is built into the e-mani, back flows into the combustion chamber, and causes excessive wear at the top of the bore and kills the rings.

The bolt on balance shaft box in the bottom end fails and makes the engine sound like it has rod knock in a bad way.

The vanos gets gummed up and bends valves. <--- this sounds like where your is heading.


Pull the Vanos actuator, It is in the font cover IIRC, and clean, degunk or replace.

how would u reccomend extending the life of the honda d15 engines? I have 2 cars that share the same motor. 1 is obd1 and the other is obd2. I really respect your advice always . thanks and I am sure I am not the only honda DD on here LOL
 
how would u reccomend extending the life of the honda d15 engines? I have 2 cars that share the same motor. 1 is obd1 and the other is obd2. I really respect your advice always . thanks and I am sure I am not the only honda DD on here LOL

The D15 is a decent little engine, Just keep up on the PM, and all should be fine.

Most of the D15/D16 I see is not for a rebuild, but for blown HG due to a failure in the cooling system.
 
Let me guess... You have the QR25 engine, a 4cyl DOHC.

I know how these engines fail in 3 ways.

The cat that is built into the e-mani, back flows into the combustion chamber, and causes excessive wear at the top of the bore and kills the rings.

The bolt on balance shaft box in the bottom end fails and makes the engine sound like it has rod knock in a bad way.

The vanos gets gummed up and bends valves. <--- this sounds like where your is heading.


Pull the Vanos actuator, It is in the font cover IIRC, and clean, degunk or replace.

Mine is the 3.5 v6 not sure of the engine code though. Its just a PITA cause I bought it for a DD. Low and behold 3 weeks in and now im getting the intake cam to advanced (P0021). Its always something LOL.
Supposedly an engine flush pulls gunk and metal particals from in front of the cam sensors. Ill break down the valve cover today or tomorrow and report back with my findings.
 
I had a similar code on a '05 hyundai elantra, changed the oil and the code went away.
 
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