[RESOLVED] Low Oil Pressure After BSE

[JayB12]

Okay. I have a BSE on my car now and I've put 2k miles on since doing it and I have had rather low pressure up in the RPMs. I'm seeing 70psi cold starts and 13 at warm idle 20 at 1k rpm. Seems to peak around 3500rpm at 50-55psi when it should be a lot higher. I don't know if it would affect it but I did crack the ofh where the bolt that holds the spring and piston are. I don't think it is over-ported based on other pictures on here it is quite similar. I was also running 5w-30 oil.

I'm currently replacing the cracked and leaking housing for another but should I port it less or what? I also am sure I didn't damage a bearing because I checked the oil/filter for debris and found none.

I've had to drive the car for a while though but I have been easy on it not breaking 4k at all due to the pressure issue.

[idkiliketurbos]

Um that doesn't really seem like low oil pressure to me if you ported the relief valve. The general rule of thumb seems to be around 10 psi per 1000 rpms.

[cl1ckclack]

your warm idle sounds a little bit low, but other than that, its around the same kind of pressure i saw...

[WES_393]

Factory "curb idle" oil pressure is around 11-12psi. Your oil pressure is not low, if anything it's a bit high.

[cl1ckclack]

Originally Posted by WES_393

Factory "curb idle" oil pressure is around 11-12psi. Your oil pressure is not low, if anything it's a bit high.

which is should be, due to the BSE

[JayB12]

But at 4-7k rpms I'm getting 50-55psi where I used to see around 80 at 5500-7200. The idle used to be 10 and was bumped to 13. It's the upper range which concerns me.

[Dyesuperman]

Upper range is fine..I see 45-50psi max at my turbo feed line (no restrictor) and haven't had trouble...been like that for months at around 400 to the wheels and 26psi

[JayB12]

I don't know, still it should not have dropped by almost 30psi at redline. I have an AEM digital gauge plumed in the stock sending unit location.

[Dyesuperman]

Originally Posted by JayB12

I don't know, still it should not have dropped by almost 30psi at redline. I have an AEM digital gauge plumed in the stock sending unit location.

Same situation with me. I had good psi before the bse and then after doing it and porting the ofh I have the lower than average oil pressure for doing the bse. I was worried at first until I ran an 11.89@120 with the oil pressure like it is, and have done numerous pulls since then. If my turbo and engine like it, then I like it

[turboglenn]

maybe one of the bearings isn't blocking it's oil feed correctly or the one on the back of the oil pump is leaking if you cut and welded it like ihave many times instead of buying a stub shaft

WHen i eliminated mine i saw 20-30 idle warm from OFH, and past 4k RPM it was 85 and would shoot past 100..now with ported OFH and clipped spring i see 20 at 1k RPM, about 15 or so at 850 (but i idle at 1k for chevy alt to charge at night with lights and stuff on)

ALso, now i see about 35lbs at 3-3.5k RPM and no more than 70 at redline,

[JayB12]

I'm dropping the pan tomorrow and I'm going to look for anything abnormal. I used an OEM stub shaft. I feel like one of the bearings may be bleeding out a bit because I did not use any type of sealant on the them, I was told that I should use green lock-tite but I did not. I think if everything looks okay I will just port the hole a bit less and see how it turns out. I just don't want any bearing wear happening because I'm lacking pressure up top.

[SmoochDarling]

Sounds like one of the balance shaft bearing oil galleries isn't plugged. I had the exact same issue.

[turboglenn]

I didn't use green loctite on mine, just put them in off alignment... Now, one thing i've done too is use a seal puller to rotate the oem bearings when pulling he shafts out, but i doubt you can do it with the crank in..we've also bought long taps and tapped the oil feeds and filled with set screws that had oc tite but on an engine that is in the car already you'd have to manually pump the oilpump with a drill afterwards before putting screws in to make sure the shavings were all out (mostfall out and you cna rinse them with carb cleaner, ..when using the oil pump to push out others,. just cut open a half gallon milk jug or larger container and put oil pickup in htere to get a source of oil.. you don't want the pan on and let any of them get back in the pump

There's 9 ways to skina cat, many with the same end results and not a single issue, some are problemstarters

[WES_393]

80psi at any time is too high. 50psi is just fine and your idle oil pressure is near perfect. Your truly beating a dead horse.

[turboglenn]

I won't argue that 50-55is fine, but i've NEVER seen oil pressure drop AFTER blocking off oil passages that normally flow, this it's self points to an issue that may ost him the engine down the road and should be addressed andd i think he feels the same way, i'm just trying to help

[JusMX141]

Stop using 5W30- it's thinner than anything Mitsubishi recommends for our cars unless you live in a climate that never exceeds 60*f. At the very least you should be using 10W30.

[WES_393]

Originally Posted by turboglenn

I won't argue that 50-55is fine, but i've NEVER seen oil pressure drop AFTER blocking off oil passages that normally flow, this it's self points to an issue that may ost him the engine down the road and should be addressed andd i think he feels the same way, i'm just trying to help

My post wasn't aimed towards you. And the OP said he cracked the OFH and will port it less next time. So I'm assuming the drop in pressure is from porting the OFH. And the idle oil pressure was still raised from 10 to 13 so I see no need to worry.

[JayB12]

I did realize the 5w30 isn't what I shoud have been running but it was already in the car before I realized. And I wasn't dumping $50 of RP out, I figured it would be okay for a little. I'll post results from what happens tomorrow.

So is it okay to run a 50 psi redline? That just sounds wrong, if the rule generally is 10/1k shouldn't it be at least 70 at redline?

[jimbob_843]

Check this out http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...DU2XvDK9OIb6Tw

It wil lead you in a better path for oil. Though royal purple is good you will see there are better alternatives.

[turboglenn]

Originally Posted by WES_393

My post wasn't aimed towards you. And the OP said he cracked the OFH and will port it less next time. So I'm assuming the drop in pressure is from porting the OFH. And the idle oil pressure was still raised from 10 to 13 so I see no need to worry.

My bad sorry

As for oil, that depends on what school of thoght you're from, but i only run 10/30 in summer and normal weatherm will go 5/30 in extreme cold when i cna't use over 100hp anyway, but my machinist said becuse of using the clearnaces he did and that the way the head is oiled if i used anything thicker than 10/30 MAYBE 10/40 and there was failure he'd know and not cover any of the repairs (pretty good to have warranty when you tell him you want your 2.0 to rev like a marine engine or street bike and hold up to 600hp doing it )

I wouldn't dump the RP, just run it's course and be easy on it (and if you're not making over 325hp i wouldn't even worry, but that's MY opinion, we each have our own thoughts on oil and i don't argue with anyone on it i just run what my machinist says to run)

as for 50-55psi to redline,i read that statement from BogusSVO a very smart engine builder machinist on here and ran it by my machinist who verified that he felt the same way, the 10psi per 1k RPM is just a general rule of thumb on systems that are in question, making at least that you know there' not a problem with the pump if you're presure regulation suystem is ok

letme dispell another oilmyth whilei'm at it YOU CAN change from synthetic to dino oil with no problems.. when i blew the HG and had to run 4 gallons of oil cycled through for about aminute each 3 quarts then drain it to get all the water out of the block and other areas it was hgiding i used oreilly's 10-30, and actually have been since, i've noticed less leaking as a benefit (always heard synthetics could find their way through any crack, hole or imperfection in gasket sealing) and it seems true.. just recently used a bore scope onmy head because a friend had one over to check on a bike i was selling for some one else and there was no further wear anyplace i could see, i haven't had any failures and have been making my dyno pulls on plain jane oil wihtout a single issue.. I asked 2 machinists about the myth you can't swap backonce you go synthetic and the most i was told was to MAYBE do the first dino-oil swap shortly after putting it in, almost as a "flush" but they said even that was probably not needed and the myth is just sometihgn some one came up with to sell expensive oil once you put it in and then it spread like wild fire (just like a JDM 6 bolt is better than a USDM 6 bolt and makesmore power...there's not difference in the engine it's self, just the turbo and manifolds on it )

[JayB12]

Okay Guys, I have it running again. I think the leak may have been the issue because now I'm seeing 80psi cold start and 13-15psi warm idle and 90psi up top. I only took about 1-2mm less off the porting. My pressure is (and always has been) climbing very quickly. I am getting 60psi at 3k and it holds the 90psi from 4300+. Is that okay?

[turboglenn]

That's gppd news but meansmore work if you're gonna run any turbo that don't need a restrictor or is fed fromthe head

those arethe pressures i was at after portingthe OFH and not clipping the spring, took 1/2 -2/3rds a coil off and got to where i'm at about exactly 10p[si per 1k RPM after the 15-20idle pressure, never goes over 72-75 now, perfect for holset,but i ran with pressures over 100psi at redline for years with no issues feedingthe 57 trim frmthe head

[JayB12]

Nice. I don't plan on running anything other than MHI (fed from head) for the time being, so it looks like I'm in the green again, for now anyways.