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Critique my Plan

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JayB12

10+ Year Contributor
544
2
Jan 12, 2009
Philipsburg, Pennsylvania
Okay, I've been wanting to get more power but since I already have 130k stock block mileage I wanted to do a rebuild. But, I'm in college and can't afford going that big with this. I was informed by the PO that It got a new head and oil pump at 80k as well as timing stuff and ect.

What I want to do is get evo rods and pistons with a BSE maybe ARPs (main and rod) too installed on my 7bolt maybe get a hot tank and hone. That's really all I was thinking. Goal is 350-400 on a FWD. I need opinions on rings/bearings and I'm really getting into the DIY and would be really proud of myself if it was possible for me to assemble it. But I'm also weighing this against my budget. Plus I don't have any of the tools needed. (Dial bore gauge, Feeler gauges, ect.)

So what are the opinions/concerns?
 
I would run a ompression and a leakdown test to see if doing a rebuild is even necessary. I know of people with well over 250k on stock block and internals.
 
If your unsure replace it he or she may say yeah it was done to find out it wasnt, no way to tell, i just replace all my stuff, spend the money now or later, much more. Just to a stock build, unless you have time and a idea of what your doing have a shop build it, if you make a error somehwhere and its posssible you may be looking into a headache. Again rebuild so take your block to the machine shop and they can help from there, threads here on the piston set up you are looking for. Look on vendor sites for your various parts, if its stock use parts close to stock, again more than enough parts for your goal.
 
I have all the reciepts for the head rebuild and the oil pump and all that other stuff. He actually gave them to me months after I had bought it (he works at a local autozone.) I didn't even know it was done when I bought the car.

I do plan on doing a compression test as soon as I find my tool. I might have to take it somewhere for the leak-down test because I don't have a tester and good ones are expensive.
 
My plan was to use a twin scroll hx35 setup and pick up a good trans with an LSD later on. I really like quick-spooling turbos.

What I'm really going for is a reliable motor, not just a summer track car. My friend's 450HP Stock block evo that is currently DD has me impressed with these pistons/rods added with their cost/functionality made them ideal for me.
 
If you can find a good deal on a pair of good used Evo pistons/rods and get some new piston rings for them, then I don't see why you shouldn't. But at the same time 350whp isn't much for the stock 4g63. You can't go wrong with either direction.
 
I was going to go with the evo pistons but then i realized that the price for the pistons would be 200 more for a fully forged piston. So ponder on it for a second before you buy. Two things I regret in my build that I purchased a Evo III 16g turbo, and 650cc Injectors. I now want a pte6262 and bigger injectors (for dsmlink and more boost).
 
Okay I figured I would just post this here since this is where it was brought up.

Compression test results (no oil added)
Cyl #1 162
Cyl #2 150
Cyl #3 152
Cyl #4 160

Let me know what you think. Also, I went to both Advanced and Autozone and neither of them had a leak-down tester. I don't know if they don't have it or the staff just have no idea what I'm talking about.
 
Your compression is ok. But for what you spend on the EVO setup, you could get a 6 bolt bottom end. Ask ostar about those. :cool:
 
Okay I figured I would just post this here since this is where it was brought up.

Compression test results (no oil added)
Cyl #1 162
Cyl #2 150
Cyl #3 152
Cyl #4 160

Let me know what you think. Also, I went to both Advanced and Autozone and neither of them had a leak-down tester. I don't know if they don't have it or the staff just have no idea what I'm talking about.
This is within spec of the FSM compression test limits if you followed the correct steps to obtaining them. Standard value for a 2g (8.5:1 CR) pistons is 178psi, 133psi limit, and no more than a 14psi difference from cylinder to cylinder.

:dsm:
 
From what I've seen I could have a set of evo rods/pistons for 150-200 and then the bearings and rings for like 100 and gaskets for another ~100. Seems like a 120k+ 6bolt block is ~350 plus all the things I would need to buy to swap, the evo setup seems more cost-effective.

Car has 130k miles. If stupid autozone had that leakdown tester I would know why there is a difference... :mad:

So what is the impression, try to push 350 on this motor or no?
 
I would think twice about making power on that engine. A loose engine will handle power better than a tight engine.
 
I say stick with the stock engine. 350hp is done all the time on the stock 7 bolt. It will take it no problem. And if for some reason it doesn't, then rebuild it with the Evo bottom end. Should have no problems at that power level as long as the maintenance is up to date.
 
Also your setup seem a little extravagant for such a low power goal. An evo 3 16g or TDO5H 20g should get you there while keeping it simple (bolt on). No need for a twin scroll HX35 setup unless you have a ton of money to spend ( which you said you don't) and you want a complicated setup to buy new front tires every week. You could do the latter with the above mentioned turbos. Some lag is good since you are FWD so I might suggest a TDO6 20g. A little less torque and a bit more HP.
 
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