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who all has done a full 6 bolt swap in a 2g

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charleso89

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Jul 27, 2011
omak, Washington
Hi i am doing a full 6 bolt swap (head+bottom). I was wondering how many people have done the full swap. I was wondering what difficulties you guys ran into that im un aware of. And how they are working now thanks.

charles
 
Last edited:
Im about to do it, From everything I read its pretty straight forward.

Just to make it easier on yourself if you don't have an engine hoist you can disconnect the plate in the back holding the intake manifold as support, then Take off the valve cover, head studs, Timing components. After you can remove the Turbo, o2 housing, Down pipe. Once all thats removed and all connectors are removed you can take off the head with the intake manifold and exhaust manifold still connected. Saves the hassle of trying to get to those bolts. After you can just prop up the block and start removing the mounts from it.

From what I have read you can either take the transmission out, then take the block out (This is said to be easier) Or you can leave the mount thats connected to the transmission and then take the block out by hand but it might be a Pain.

Before you start PB blast all your bolts a few hours before, it helps out a lot.

Armin
 
actualy ill try and take a picture today but it would be from my phone. I bought the 1995 gst shell so theres no engine in it. doesnt have a/c either and the engine i bought was set up for a/c delete also. So as i finish building it ima keep running the a/c delete and have a little less hassle so i can get it running. Im goin to use stock injectors, and 14b for break in since its a fresh rebuild. Double check i have 2g engine mounts. Altho im not sure if i need to change the firing order with the full swap since i have a 95 gst
 
while yes i havent found anything about the firring order, i have actualy done alot of reaserch and the main reason i made this. was to see all the different ways people have done there 6 bolt swap. what luck they have had, and how they like it .
 
If using a 2G UICP, some designs might hit the thermostat housing making it difficult to get a perfect seal between the UICP and TB. Only an issue with some 2G UICP's and an easy fix if you run into this.
 
Its as simple as listed to be. I have also done the AWD swap. I did run into one thing that NO ONE noticed before. I even ran over to JNZ to tell them what I found and they were like woah!

When you have the block and trans bolted together and mounted in all mounts, turn the crank with a 1/2 drive ratchet. You will notice it will stop DEAD as if something is contacting the crank. Its as simple as the 6 bolt flywheel inside a 2g trans hits the bell housing at a SMALL spot near the starter.

Everyone else skips the hand turning and just fires it up. The first revolution of cranking will gouge out a small piece of bell housing and I bet you wont even hear it, I grinded it off but I can see how noone ever noticed this before.. DSMtalk re-named and documented my thread about this as it was the first time anyone picked up on this. Just interesting to know.

+1 on the UICP. I just dented mine and it goes 11.4@125mph
 
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