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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 03-11-2010, 09:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Teardown?


heya. I was looking to put new cams in my vehicle, the stock turbo ones as I have a N/T 16 4G63.

ANYWAY... i know that my rings need to be replaced on my pistons...though i don't have the equipment to pull my engine.

Since I'm pulling the cams out, can i just go ahead and pull the head and get to the pistons? Maybe.. jack up the car, drop the oil pan, release the piston arms and push them up through the head?

>.< I've never done anything to the block.. so advice would be helpful. I need to replace rings without pulling the entire engine. I am PATIENT...

And what all would I need to do this, including gaskets?


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Old 03-11-2010, 12:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
heya. I was looking to put new cams in my vehicle, the stock turbo ones as I have a N/T 16 4G63.
Are you sure that's an upgrade? I don't know the specs of the N/A cams, but usually turbo specific camshafts for other engines have lower duration and less overlap...

Quote:
Since I'm pulling the cams out, can i just go ahead and pull the head and get to the pistons? Maybe.. jack up the car, drop the oil pan, release the piston arms and push them up through the head?
You can remove pistons and rods with the block in the car, but it makes it pretty difficult to hone the cylinders accurately and clean or resurface the deck. Both of which you should at least consider.

Quote:
>.< I've never done anything to the block.. so advice would be helpful. I need to replace rings without pulling the entire engine. I am PATIENT...

And what all would I need to do this, including gaskets?
Remove battery ground. Drain oil and coolant. Remove valve cover, Timing belt, intake manifold brace, intake plumbing and upper rad hose. Label and disconnect all wiring. Remove exhaust manifold. Remove head bolts in correct sequence according to FSM. Remove cylinder head with intake mani. Remove subframe brace and oil pain. Separate connecting rods and push the pistons out of the top of the block deck. Measure out-of-roundness of cylinders with micrometer. Clean the deck with a gasket scraper and measure straightness of block deck with precision straight edge and feeler gauges. Resurface/hone as needed. Remove piston rings with ring pliers as necessary. File new ring end gaps to spec by pushing new rings into the bore with a piston and measuring the gap with feeler gauges. Reinstall rings. Use ring compressor sleeve to install pistons and con rods back into block with V mark pointing towards T belt. Replace con rod bearings. Torque the rod bolts to spec with a torque wrench. Replace oil pan using a new gasket. Replace headgasket and reinstall NEW head bolts or studs with good antiseize lube. Torque head bolts/studs to spec in 3 steps following the sequence specified in the FSM. Replace timing belt. Replace valve cover gasket and reinstall valve cover. Reattach intake mani brace, upper rad hose, exhaust manifold, wiring connectors and intake plumbing. Refill oil and coolant.

That's just a quick idea of what you're looking at. I'm sure there are steps I shortened or possibly omitted.

Do you have a FSM?


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Old 03-11-2010, 12:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Yes, and that actually helps so much!

Thanks a lot, it's exactly what I was looking for! I did read, however, that the 6bolt block head bolts we reusable? Otherwise I'd have to order the bolts which would delay the process... I don't mind but I'd like to verify this?

Also, @_@ a few of the tools I don't have.. such as the micrometer.

Do you have an expected cost? Approximate of course.


As for the cams. I read up on it, and apparently it opens a bit more HP. Don't recall exactly how... but apparently it's a good start moving from the NT cams to the Stock Turbo cams from a 1G 5spd.
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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That all depends on how much you care about doing it the right way. If you're planning on leaving the block in the car, you are already off to a bad start. The only thing that keeps me from being more negative is that this car is a non-turbo. I think if it's worth the trouble of doing it, it should be done right even if the car isn't going to see extreme use.


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Old 03-11-2010, 01:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta448 View Post
That all depends on how much you care about doing it the right way. If you're planning on leaving the block in the car, you are already off to a bad start. The only thing that keeps me from being more negative is that this car is a non-turbo. I think if it's worth the trouble of doing it, it should be done right even if the car isn't going to see extreme use.

True, however... I don't have the equipment to pull and then mount the engine.

If I didn't care.. I'd run it until the rings completely wore, I spun a bearing, or shot a piston through the head. As it is an NT... No it won't ever see much more than 200HP at it's best. But I can still look for ways to take care of it in a fashion that I am readily able to do with some of the things I have opposed to spending 1K for a piston ring change. If I was looking to do that, i'd scrap the car and buy a GSX. Simple.
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