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Heads off, how bad does it look?

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saechao04

15+ Year Contributor
462
3
Aug 8, 2006
portland, Oregon
Well I finally got my head off and I did not like what I saw. How bad does this look guys?

I'm unsure how difficult it is to do a head job as this is my first rebuild ever. Any suggestions? I've got the DSM CD and a Chilton's but I have a $1000 budget for the rebuild. I do however have all the gaskets and ARP's. Will this be enough money?

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Did not break the timing belt, unsure if I jumped timing. I was on my way home from work a few months ago and gave it 1/2 throttle and all of a sudden I hear something crack/break and went home and did a compression test. 180, 180, 90, 180. After that I didn't even start up the car. Didn't expect it to be this bad though.
 
I'm assuming that second picture, the first clean picture of 4 valves is #3 right? The second exhaust valve doesn't look to be sitting flush against the head. Is the rocker still on that valve? Is that third picture your #3 piston?
 
A quick way to verify that this valve is leaking is to:
A) Take a light and shine it into that exhaust opening. If you see light come out of the valve, then it's leaking
B) Turn the head upside down and pour water on that cylinder indentation. If the water leaks out, then that valve is leaking

That would certainly explain your poor compression in that cylinder.
 
I can still see crosshatch in the bore, so thats good, you just goiing to freshin up the bottom end?
new rings and bearings? maybe do BSE?

Pop the pistons out and make sure the rings still spin freely in the ringlands.
How old are the timing componets?

as far as your head goes, it dosnt look all that bad, But I would say the valve springs are wore out and need replaced, a set of BC springs work well with the stock retainers, and a few new valves.
Maybe get a set of the Engbldr SS Valves may even fit in your budget.
getting the head Valve jobbed, surfaced and the new springs would be about $300

what are your plans? we know your budget ($1000.00)
 
Timing components are under 8k miles. Goals are to get my FP BT28 to put down 300whp and use for daily driving. I do have new rings, bearings, gaskets and BSEK. I do have supporting mods for my turbo set up, 650cc injectors, evo fuel pump, STM pump to rail kit, Safc and logger, wideband, and boost gauge.
 
What year is the evo pump out of? If its an 8, id say find a new pump. The 9's are better, but I would probably just go with 255 and call it a day. I ended up going with a supra pump cause I don't care too much for the whine noise.
 
Evo 9 pump, yeah I had an Evo 8 pump and it wasn't working too well for me.
 
well if you have all that... you may try to come up with a little more cash and get the bottom end as stout as you can, H-beam rods and forged pistons, maybe ARP mains, some basic machine work, hone the block w/torque plate, align hone the mains, deck the block.

That way down the road, when your "bored" at this power level the bottom end will be there so ya can turn the wick up on it.
 
I forgot to mention I need a new clutch and flywheel also, so that cuts it to about $700. Thanks for the input guys/girls.
 
one thing i would suggest before tearing into it to look for something, is do a leak down test. that will basically tell you where any leaks could possibly be. hissing exhaust...exhaust valve seals....hissing intake....intake valve seals. crankcase pressure.....ringlands. bubbling radiator fluid...head gasket. now its a guessing came.
 
With our cars getting older buy the day its hard to build a decent setup on a budget as there already is many miles on the engine and drivetrain. Keep your eye out on the classifieds and ebay as you can get brand new parts for cheap by guys gettitng out all together. I see it everyday.
Im sure dale (bogusSVO) can clean up your head for cheap as I would have him do a 3 angle valve job with the stock valves that are in the head now (that can be recut on a valve grinder), new valve stem seals and find a set of used or new BC or manley spring kit and be done with the head for now.
 
Why are people recommending building the bottom end? OP only wants 300hp. Easily attainable with the bottomend he has now and a used 16g. OP, drop your head off at a shop and have them do a disassemble/hottank/check for bad valves+replace. It should be about 100 for disassemble/assemble+hottank and about $7 per valve that needs replacing. Then head to the classifieds and pick up a used 16g and have 500 left for other mods.
 
Why are people recommending building the bottom end? OP only wants 300hp. Easily attainable with the bottomend he has now and a used 16g. OP, drop your head off at a shop and have them do a disassemble/hottank/check for bad valves+replace. It should be about 100 for disassemble/assemble+hottank and about $7 per valve that needs replacing. Then head to the classifieds and pick up a used 16g and have 500 left for other mods.

the reason I suggested to beef up the bottom end, is so when he is bored at the 300hp level, there would be room for growth.
From the list he has in parts at the time, he will be able to support 300hp and more, so over build the bottom end now, so in 6 month or a year, he can go to 400hp and not have to go back into it.
 
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